Spark arc (1 Viewer)

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This regards my FJ45 with F135 engine and nonUSA distributor, SD50 single barrel carburetor.

I may have more than one issue going here, and I understand that. Still, I thought I'd run a flag up and see what people think.

Yesterday, before sunup, I was driving to a secret turkey hunting spot, and had dropped 500 feet in elevation, and I noticed the development of a rapid, regular snapping sound coming from the front of the vehicle. It sped up and got louder with faster RPMs and load, and dropped but didn't disappear when I slowed down.

It reminded me of the sound a playing card makes when pinned to a bicycle yoke and it slaps against the wheel spokes.

I got to my hunting partner's place well before shooting light, parked with the engine running and raised the hood. I could still hear the sound, but not pinpoint it, except it seemed to be on the passenger side. I also noticed, in the dark, that I could see blue sparking arcing between the ends of all 6 spark plug boots, across the ceramic of the plugs and to the base of the plug/engine block. It was regular and equal across all plugs. There was a black collar of carbon around the ceramic of all of the plugs between the end of the boot and the base of the plug.

I touched each of the wires :)D) without any shock. Boots were tight on plugs.

After hunting (in ptnrs rig) I drove back home. Sound still there, but it diminished to the point that I couldn't really hear it at all as I returned to home elevation.

The plugs and wires are a couple of years old and maybe have 12K miles on them. OEM wires with Denso plugs for the F135.

After getting home, I did a little tuneup/check.

Wires looked clean, no cracks, plugs looked good, maybe a little carbon around the rim but not the electrodes and no gunk. I cleaned off the carbon collar and replaced.

Idle speed normal @700, electrical timing right where I had set it at 12 DBTDC (a little advance).

Then I checked the points, which seemed a little worn. Plus, the dwell angle was 37 degrees, a bit less than the 41 degrees spec for that dizzy (or 50 for the engine). So I had a spare and changed out the points and ended up with a good gap and dwell angle of 40.5 degrees. I noticed after replacing the points the timing was at 9 degrees BTDC. Not sure what that meant.

All the while, it seemed to run normally without missing, albeit underpowered on the hills, but that's not too unusual with this old truck.

Last night after dark, I checked again. I could still see the arcing, although it didn't seem as intense as it had in the morning.


So, two people have told me to replace the wires. I'm not sure. Is that the problem, or is it just arcing past the end and will it do the same thing with new wires? Any other thoughts?
 
I would replace the wire set David.


:beer:
 
Thank you, Steve.

OEM OK, or should I consider something "better"?
 
I use OEM if I have them, otherwise any decent brand from an auto parts house should be fine.

Just make sure before you walk out that your coil lead is long enough....


:beer:
 
I'll just get OEM. Thanks very much!

:beer:
 
A cheap solution may be to spray the leads and cap with silicone spray and wipe off the excess with a rag. (Leaves it all looking nice and shiny like new too.)

I was foreever replacing leads on one car (a Honda Civic) we had before discovering this trick. .......... Without the spray (or replacing the leads) the car used to have difficulty starting is humid/misty weather (where condensation was present throughout the engine bay) because the high voltage pulses used to track along alternative routes. (The cost of the new leads was getting prohibitive because they were lasting only about 2 years.)

:cheers:
 
A cheap solution may be to spray the leads and cap with silicone spray and wipe off the excess with a rag. (Leaves it all looking nice and shiny like new too.)

I was foreever replacing leads on one car (a Honda Civic) we had before discovering this trick. .......... Without the spray (or replacing the leads) the car used to have difficulty starting is humid/misty weather (where condensation was present throughout the engine bay) because the high voltage pulses used to track along alternative routes. (The cost of the new leads was getting prohibitive because they were lasting only about 2 years.)

:cheers:

Mate and I had this same trouble in a Datsun Patrol, misty/foggy weather it wouldnt run.. CRC fixed it enough to dry it out and get it going..
 
Good points.

I might try the silicone spray while I'm waiting for new plug wires.

Am I losing "power" with this arcing phenomenon? I assume some of the spark is lost. I assume that if it's getting to the cylinders, it's doing so after the plug spark, so it wouldn't cause preignition, right?
 
OK. Any risk of engine compartment fires while I wait for new wires?
 
Mate and I had this same trouble in a Datsun Patrol, misty/foggy weather it wouldnt run.. CRC fixed it enough to dry it out and get it going..

I'd maybe use CRC (pentrating oil) on electrical stuff in an emergency but it has a reputation for damaging rubber.

Really I think it's use should be limited to "loosening rusted/seized components" (although it is quite good at protecting chrome from flaking/rusting too).

On the other hand, silicone spray doesn't harm rubber at all and has the same (or better) "electrical insulation effect". In fact I think it actually protects rubber.

But of course the big drawback with silicone is that getting it on metalwork makes it diificult for future paint to stick (without extensive cleaning work). ......... The silicone almost seems to enter the pores of the metal because it stays hiudden there for years and years.


:cheers:

PS. I have been using CRC on the drive chains on dirt-bikes (to stop rusting mainly and because it makes much less of a mess than chain oil) but it really does DESTROY my tyres! (Makes them perish super-fast.) But even so, I continue to use it for this.
 
wires

if they are leaking best bet is to replace them but I would say that keeping them clean might help stop them leaking in humid conditions

wires can last a long time maybe 60-100k miles

how are the plugs?
 
if they are leaking best bet is to replace them but I would say that keeping them clean might help stop them leaking in humid conditions

wires can last a long time maybe 60-100k miles

how are the plugs?

This is what puzzles me. I don't understand why wires only a couple of years old should be arcing like that.

The plugs are only a couple of years old as well. They seem fine.
 
This is what puzzles me. I don't understand why wires only a couple of years old should be arcing like that.

The plugs are only a couple of years old as well. They seem fine.

If the weather was very damp and misty and your engine hadn't had time to warm up completly - then that's all it takes with 2-year old (or older) leads. (Im my experience anyway.)

:cheers:
 
If the weather was very damp and misty and your engine hadn't had time to warm up completly - then that's all it takes with 2-year old (or older) leads. (Im my experience anyway.)

:cheers:

Yep. Well, dry as a bone and completely warmed up. :frown:
 
Any contamination such as dust, carbon or any semi conductive residue will cause "Tracking" of the high voltage to the nearest ground. Try cleaning the plug boots inside and out with rubbing alcohol or some electrical contact cleaner$$$ and also wipe the spark plug insulators with a clean rag and see if that makes a difference before you go spending money.

Jerome
 
Makes sense. Will do! Thanks!
 

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