Spare tire lift and what I learned.

[WiscoProud]

So I had a nice afternoon and some free time to work on the truck last Saturday. I decided I was going to raise the spare tire and relocate my trailer connector, as it always seems to get packed with mud when I go out.

I decided to start with lifting the spare tire. I followed the guide located here
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/spare-tire-modifications.76405/

For spacers, I went to the hardware store are realized that steel spacers would certainly be strong enough. So I bought 4 3/8" x 1/2" x 1.5" stainless steel spacers. However I was worried about lateral movement, as the spacers are only 1/8" wider than the bolt. So I decided to use hockey pucks as a "bushing" of sort. I figured they are tough and have been used for body lifts for decades, so this shouldn't be an issue.

Using two hockey pucks, I figured I could make two spacers out of each, roughly 1"x1"x1.5".

Using a dremel with the incorrect cutting wheel, I then proceeded to cut out the spacers. This produced an absurd amount of black dust, and since I stupidly didn't use a dust mask, I probably gave myself black lung.

I then used gradually bigger bits to drill out the spacer hole. I then put the nudged the spacer into the holes using wd40 and a hammer. Resulting in 4 spacers with bushing.

The next step would be to climb under the truck to do the actual mod. I dropped the spare and crawled under, only to realize that 2003+ trucks have emissions control equipment directly above the spare tire carrier. Not only can I not get 1.5" of lift, I might only be able to get 3/4". Dejected since I cannot use my spacers, I decided to turn my attention to the spare tire connector.

Like I said my carrier is always packed with leaves and mud when I go out. I bought one of these to try to move it up and out of the way.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001GK9EBE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

However, going along with the theme of the weekend, the wiring is to short to relocate it, and I broke two bolts trying to get it detached. So I had to settle for taking it off and giving the connectors a good cleaning. The mounting is rather ingenious with two directional tabs holding it in place, so I'm not worried about it falling off with one bolt, but it will need to be addressed in the future.

So in conclusion, if there is anyone looking to raise their spare tire and does not have emissions equipment in the way, let me know as I have a set of spacers ready to go.

Second, does anyone know if the trailer connecter wiring can be extended or have any of you guys relocated it?

 

[Sandroad]

I'm not entirely sure of what you are asking about extending trailer wiring, but if you simply need an extension with the correct connectors on both ends to make the wiring longer, then the answer is yes. Places like etrailer have pretty much any combination of plugs on extension cords to make wiring longer by pretty much any length. Then you can remount it anywhere you like. Some have simply coiled up a longer wire inside the cargo and run the wire out the bottom of the tailgate when towing. Keeps the connector clean.

 

[re_guderian]

I know what you mean about the wiring. My daughter rents various horse trailers, and tows with the 100. Some have short plugs that pop out while making sharp turns since the plug is so far outboard. I will just make a short extension and keep it in the "tow box". Not worth messing with the truck wiring.

 

[coldwiz]

I'll take the spacers! Bring them when we install that elocker in your truck. And I lengthened my trailer wiring so to speak. It was because one of the connectors in the factory 6 pin plug disintegrated so I cut it off and spiced in a new 6 pin plug that I got from the auto parts store. My plan is to keep the harness unplugged and inside the truck away from the elements until I need it.

 

[WiscoProud]

I'm not entirely sure of what you are asking about extending trailer wiring, but if you simply need an extension with the correct connectors on both ends to make the wiring longer, then the answer is yes. Places like etrailer have pretty much any combination of plugs on extension cords to make wiring longer by pretty much any length. Then you can remount it anywhere you like. Some have simply coiled up a longer wire inside the cargo and run the wire out the bottom of the tailgate when towing. Keeps the connector clean.

If you look at the link I posted the kit allows you to mount the trailer connector to the cross bar, rather than have it hanging down. There is a thread on here that I can't find at the moment, where someone created their own using metal. The problem is the wiring from the plug above the spare tire is only long enough to reach the OEM mount. I would need 6" or so of extra wiring to mount it to the cross bar. I wonder if Etrailer has an option to replace the factory connector?

 

[WiscoProud]

I'll take the spacers! Bring them when we install that elocker in your truck. And I lengthened my trailer wiring so to speak. It was because one of the connectors in the factory 6 pin plug disintegrated so I cut it off and spiced in a new 6 pin plug that I got from the auto parts store. My plan is to keep the harness unplugged and inside the truck away from the elements until I need it.

The spacers are yours. It might be a while before I can address the elocker. I have some rust and armor issues to address, and I promised my wife a pergola too.

 

[bhicks]

The spacers are yours. It might be a while before I can address the elocker. I have some rust and armor issues to address, and I promised my wife a pergola too.

I know this is a tad off topic but I see in your sig you are running a 275/70 tire. Is that a 275/70/18? If so, have you been able to mount it in the factory spare tire location? Any pics of your tires installed? I'm looking at that size in the Duratracs.

 

[TXLX100]

I know this is a tad off topic but I see in your sig you are running a 275/70 tire. Is that a 275/70/18? If so, have you been able to mount it in the factory spare tire location? Any pics of your tires installed? I'm looking at that size in the Duratracs.

Fit will be very tight with a trailer hitch. You'll have to nudge it off center when hoisting. I have a 285/75/16, which is a bit shorter, in my spare well.

 

[WiscoProud]

I know this is a tad off topic but I see in your sig you are running a 275/70 tire. Is that a 275/70/18? If so, have you been able to mount it in the factory spare tire location? Any pics of your tires installed? I'm looking at that size in the Duratracs.

I replied to your PM. Like TXLX100 said, it will fit, but its tight. I don't think anything bigger could fit with the hitch on.

 

[bhicks]

I figured I would just add on to this thread instead of starting a new one. I have an 03LX470 and was quite bummed out when I removed my spare tire to find that huge ugly emissions control box right behind the spare tire. After doing some measuring I realized that there was about 1 5/8" difference between the edge of the box and the outer edge of the plate/mount for the spare tire. The issue is that I could not raise the mount that much because of a bunch of metal in the way. That never stops me. Got out the angle grinder and cut out what I needed removed. Now the spare tire cross bar plate is right up snug to the emissions box. Instead of hanging 1 5/8" below the box. The crossbar is now 1/8" below the box which gave me 1.5" of spare tire lift. If your worried about compramising the strength as the crossbar (like I did) then you feel good knowing that I hung on it with all my weight (205 lbs) without issue. I figured a 70lbs. tire wont be an issue. I then flipped the back mount which raised up the back section. Then removed the front mount/bar thing. Next step was to make 1.5" spacers for the main mount. got on the computer and after a few minutes I had the CAD file designed. 10 minutes later I had the spacers printing on one of my machines. They will be done when I get up in the moring. I did a super thick fill and a super thick wall thickness. These spacers will have no issues mounting the spare tire. I will get pics of it all installed tomorrow. Here's what the notch looks like that I cut and the piece that I flipped. I also picked up some 1.5" longer bolts at the hardware store to go through the spacers. Not sure if everything I have done will work. I will find out in the morning.

 

[bhicks]

So the spacers printed during the night. I did the "fast" setting since there was no reason to have pretty and smooth spacers. I wanted functional and strong, which is what I got. Here's the spacers and bolts. I got it all installed and everything fit great. I have not installed the spare yet (which is the final test). I am going to install my new BIOR rear bumper today and then the spare will go in after that. Here's some pics of it all.

 

[Ramathorn15]

I really like what you did there. I have an 06 so I was only able to raise mine by about 3/4". I considered cutting but wasn't too sure about the strength of the cross member. I think you've convinced me that it will work!

 

[hoser]

Instead of hanging 1 5/8" below the box. The crossbar is now 1/8" below the box which gave me 1.5" of spare tire lift.

I don't mean to be a Debbie Downer but that charcoal canister (~$400) is fastened to the body and there is quite a bit of movement between the body and frame, especially off-road. At the very least, load up some weight and flex your suspension out and check for contact.

 

[bhicks]

I don't mean to be a Debbie Downer but that charcoal canister (~$400) is fastened to the body and there is quite a bit of movement between the body and frame, especially off-road. At the very least, load up some weight and flex your suspension out and check for contact.

Once I get the BIOR bumper on, I will get the spare installed and flex everything and check for contact. I can always increase or decrease the thickness of the spacers to get it dialed in perfect. I'm pretty sure the 1.5" spacers should be perfect but you never know until you test fit everything.

 

[bhicks]

I decided to just go ahead and mount the spare before the new bumper. I was now curious about fitment based on hoser's comment. After lifting it up with the spare tire winch I realized something I had not accounted for. The 275 70 18 spare hit the frame crossbar across the back before it hit the actual spare tire cross bar. The tire then started to pivot up (toward the backside of the 100) until it started to pinch the actual removable bar that you crank to raise and lower the tire. Just about the point where it's pinching so badly you can't turn it, the tire bottoms out on the spare tire crossbar. I now can't pull the winch bar out. It's wedged between the body and spare. I did stick my hand up between the charcoal canister and spare and have about 1/8". I would like to see about 1/4". I did a little thinking and have a new plan. I am going to print two more spacers to prevent the rotating/crank rod to be pinched between the body and spare. Those spacers will fix that issue AND lower the spare just a hair to give me that 1/4" gap between the charcoal canister and spare. I am also going to lower the PSI in my spare to 10 psi to give the sidewalls of the spare some needed flex/softness. That will allow some give in the tire if by any chance it does come in contact with the canister at full articulation. I keep a compressor in the back at all times so airing up my spare if/when I neeed it is not a big deal. Here is a shot of the tire where it hits the frame crossbar and another shot of the rotating rod getting pinched between the body and spare. I will get pics of the new spacers installed once they come off the machcine.

 

[Ramathorn15]

When you say you're going to print two more spacers, where do you plan on putting them? Are you thinking, out of the 4 bolts that hold the spare cross bar, having the two rear-most spacers a bit longer to bring the spare down a little bit and change the angle of the cross bar?

 

[bhicks]

When you say you're going to print two more spacers, where do you plan on putting them? Are you thinking, out of the 4 bolts that hold the spare cross bar, having the two rear-most spacers a bit longer to bring the spare down a little bit and change the angle of the cross bar?

The new spacers will not be replacing the other ones. They will be out on the edge between the body and spare. I will have pics up as soon as they come off the machine. It's a 4 hour print and I'm 1.5 hrs into it.

 

[bhicks]

The print went a lot quicker than I expected. Here's the spacers. The bar is a 1/2" bar so I made the spacers give me 5/8ths clearance. I can now tighten the spare down and still easily remove the rod. Looks like I have 5 points of contact with the tire and vehicle. It touches on the main frame crossbar, also touches on the two places on the spare tire crossbar that it should touch on and finally touches on the two spacers. The tire is now an 10psi giving the side walls plenty of flex in case I bump anything at full articulation. The spare seems very secure and it not contacting the charcoal canister. I have a hair under 1/4" gap from the spare tire and canister. So far everything seems to be secure and mount without issue. I will give it a few weeks of regular driving and a couple of wheelin trips then check it all again for any possible issues.

 

[Ramathorn15]

Interesting. I like the idea, the only thing I would worry about is now you have something firmly attached to the frame that's also up against a part of the body. Probably not a huge issue since the tire is aired down though. I'll be interested to hear if you have any noises or anything of concern after a drive down a washboard dirt road and full flexing.

 

[bhicks]

So after stepping back and looking at my idea I now see a fundamental issue. The bar across the rear frame crossmember that I removed has a huge function. It prevents the spare from being crushed up into the sheet metal when the vehicle slams down onto the spare tire coming off a ledge. My spacers will keep everything snug BUT don't project the body panel they are attached do. They will either crunch the panel or crush themselves. Neither of those option are any good. I think I'm going to scratch this idea and just mount the factory bar 1.5" higher. I will need to drill new holes and dig up some hardware bolts. It will be REALLY close to the pinch seam. I am going to notch the pinch seams right where the bar crosses under it. If none of that makes sense then sit tight. Will take about an hour before I have it all done with pics posted.