spare parts wanted

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-Spike- said:
Or, you could pull the lower cap, couldn'tcha? If you had to, that is.

-Spike

Yep, but if you plan on changing them on the trail I would martack.
 
BMAN, PM sent.

Golden Spike would be hell to have to pull someone through, I wouldn't want to ask for that. It's basically full of obtacles the whole way and a LONG trail already without any breakage.........

and with my luck, it's only the real hard stuff breaking............:rolleyes:
 
While a valid argument I would argue that the time savings isn't really that great. The way I did mine would only take 20 or 30 mins the next go around since I now know what I'm doing. A ten minute savings doesn't seem like alot when it involves what seems like more work.
 
-Spike- said:
I'm not trying to hijack the thread, but this seems pertinent. When you cleaned the birf cup, was there any signs of wear, the typical wear marks from the balls? Mileage on the birfs? I'm working on a theory (not mine, but I'll take it) that worn birf cups are more likely to break due to the ball becoming stuck in the wear marks when turning under power.

-Spike


Can't say that I looked to see. But the next time I'm in there I'll take some pics and a good look to see what the wear looks like.
 
I popped a Birf about 2 years ago, and It really didn't seem like that stressful of a situation. Spike, my theory is that the birf cups fatigue over time, then just let go when the time comes. I've been in or seen some people in some situations where you knew for sure that the Birf was gonna go and it didn't. I think those situations result in the weakening of the cup, then doing it over and over, the fatigue sets in then it just goes one day. What I'm saying and what you're saying could basically be the same thing.
 
Claudia, the first front axle related spare I would carry for your truck is a warn hub, IMHO they are weaker than the birf and more prone to breakage. If I was going to do anything with the birfs, I would change them to fine splines and put Aisin locking hubs on it.
 
Broke my birf first. Next outing lost the hub. I think the shock of the birf breaking caused a weak spot in the hub. The next time that wheel was in a bind the hub let go. I will agree that the Warn hubs are weaker than Aisins and should be weaker than the birfs but I wouldn't bet on the hub letting go before the birf. Although I would prefer to have the Warn hub be the fuse in the system you can't always count on that being the case.
 
well i dont know of an axle shaft breaking before a birf, never heard of it until the longfields starting gettin run, then the switch to chromo shafts was put in place, i wouldnt bother to carry a shaft especially with a course spline birf.

i have broken a birf, no biggie, if i hadnt loaned my spare to rush i would have repaired and been on my way, as it were i was able to drive homes w/o removal.

the "camo method" does indeed safe time, dont think you need the martac, ive done it w/o.

micheal i understand the parts vs weight you mention. my buddy wheels a suburban and our running joke his he carries another suburban in the back:flipoff2:
 
Michael here:

Kevin, I actually like the idea to break the hub first rather than breaking something further in (and I do carry hubs in the K5...), and I've mulled over running the Warn hub fuses - supposedly, an ARB can withstand the break as compared to auto lockers.

Rhino, we were on a run with Dean Bennett from LV a while ago (the white Sub w/ the tires 6 feet in the air on my BlazerBash '04 page on the Desertrider site...). He has the equivalent of a well-stocked NAPA store in the back... his supply of Dana 60 parts etc. saved a lot of people from having to spend the night in Pritchett Canyon. Looks like 8000lbs. doesn't even come close...

I'm trying to follow the theory that if you actually have a spare part, it will act as insurance and you won't break the original. The unfortunate logical extension of that theory is that you'll break something else for which you don't have a spare...
 

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