Source for re-pinning electrical connectors + AHC Issue + Introduction. (1 Viewer)

blackohio

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First real post in a specific direction.
Just bought a '00 LX470 - guy I got it from bought two in auction from Georgia, this appears to have bee na Florida truck based on a service record or two.

The harness side of my TPS pin the previous mechanic has broken the clip off and I want-to re-pin it. Does anyone have a source or know what the pin part number is to buy?

I have a receipt from the PO in late 2019 where the TPS was replaced. PO120 Code.

Its still acting weird from time to time, RPM's will drop under steady load or at a light it'll have no juice. This weekend my plan is to inspect the TB and clean if necessary. But was told by PO that it needed a new Accelerator sensor in the pedal, but I dont see that online for 2000 year models but '03-'07

Is there a simple sensor on the accelerator or is it the whole pedal assembly? Or is this not even a valid part for my year(s) Im not going to necessarily buy this one but just an example.
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...-sensor/aps145/6004332/2003/lexus/lx470?pos=0

Im thinking of ditching the AHC system all together, its dumb and I dont need it's issues (mine doesnt lift the front ATM just clunks and moves but returns to N height) So rather than spend $300-3000 on it I'd just convert to LC stuff and be happy.

Now with that said whats the best parts? I see ironman 4x4 has a complete kit but I dont know s*** about their parts. I can get Icon CDVC shocks but would need to source TB's, rear springs, coil spacers if needed and possibly trailing arms (which ironman 4x4 makes. Thoughts.

IMG_4501.JPG


IMG_4502.JPG


IMG_4503.JPG


my previous truck, sold last year. I recently acquired a Can Am X3 thats getting the full built happening right now decided I wanted to sell my A7 and buy a fun daily for a bit.

IMG_4082.jpg
 
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Try a manual clear for the AHC: ignition off, short Tc and E1 in dlc1, ignition on and push brake pedal 9 times in less than 3 seconds. IG off, remove short. I've had 100's with and without AHC. I absolute prefer AHC and would not pull it out.

Jim
20200527_120147.jpg
 

blackohio

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Try a manual clear for the AHC: ignition off, short Tc and E1 in dlc1, ignition on and push brake pedal 9 times in less than 3 seconds. IG off, remove short. I've had 100's with and without AHC. I absolute prefer AHC and would not pull it out.

Jim

thanks, i'll give that a shot. I was about to say im not keen on driving around with pressurized tubes of fluid controlling ride.

then my brain was like, dummy wtf do you think shocks / struts are.
 

MJK

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Welcome.

Unless you are planning on a crazy/heavy/lifted rig, I wouldn't be so quick to write off AHC until you ride in one that has it working properly. It really is pretty spectacular for on and light/med off-road. And, most people would spend less to fix it properly than to replace it. You do you, but a lot of new folks show up here thinking AHC = bad. Just trying to present an alternative perspective.

Most of the electrical connectors in the truck are Sumitomo. Sometimes I can find them from Toyota, sometimes elsewhere but almost all of them are around somewhere. Post a pic of it if you can't find it.

Throttle by wire didn't happen until 2003, so unless I am misreading your comments I don't think this is applicable to your MY2000.

Re: stumbling - You tried simple things like cleaning MAF, looking for intake leaks, pulling codes, etc?
 

blackohio

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Welcome.

Unless you are planning on a crazy/heavy/lifted rig, I wouldn't be so quick to write off AHC until you ride in one that has it working properly. It really is pretty spectacular for on and light/med off-road. And, most people would spend less to fix it properly than to replace it. You do you, but a lot of new folks show up here thinking AHC = bad. Just trying to present an alternative perspective.

Most of the electrical connectors in the truck are Sumitomo. Sometimes I can find them from Toyota, sometimes elsewhere but almost all of them are around somewhere. Post a pic of it if you can't find it.

Throttle by wire didn't happen until 2003, so unless I am misreading your comments I don't think this is applicable to your MY2000.

Re: stumbling - You tried simple things like cleaning MAF, looking for intake leaks, pulling codes, etc?

The TPS connector seemed wet on the inside, so I cleaned it with some iso alcohol, put back on, I just double checked it, I think they used dielectric grease to keep the connector together and thats the wetness. I was a bit confused as I cant find anything about the a accelerator sensor outside the TB one for my year, and the PO kept mentioning replacing that next. I think the "stumble" is probably intermittent signal from the TPS sensor since it doesnt stay tight in the connector.

IMG_4505.JPG


Truck doesn't stumble it does the typical steady input gas pedal rpm drop at highway speeds which leads me to TPS / TB / TB Motor as being the culprit.At a light yesterday I gave it gas in a normal fashion and truck seemed to have like 10% output, I floored it and it got up and went and was fine. From reading seems pretty common to TB / TPS issues.

Since cleaning the connector and re-seating it truck seemed better in normal driving than prior. I still want to have a look at TB, make sure its all clean. Could be the throttle motor is the problem.

I plan on sourcing techstream but I also need to just buy a cheap laptop to run it. Im a mac guy and all desktop based at this moment.
 

MJK

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Looks like a Sumitomo TS090-4S-3 to me:
 

blackohio

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Looks like a Sumitomo TS090-4S-3 to me:
solid, im gonna have to bookmark that site.
 

MJK

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I've not run into this personally, but perhaps this thread is worth a read:
 

blackohio

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I've not run into this personally, but perhaps this thread is worth a read:
Pretty much the symptoms and judging by the fact that the TPS has been replaced by PO less than 1K ago, either the connector withut the tab is the source of issues or the TB is acting a fool. Luckily TB isnt expensive so worst case just throw a new one on.
 

blackohio

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Damn, I guess that's a huge barrier to entry. I guess your only choice is to tear apart the suspension and spend a grand or two.
did my reply sound sarcastic, it seemed pretty straight forward to me.
 

blackohio

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or buy Parallels and run windowz on your Mac.
not going to work, i’ll all desktop mac based. with the exception of ipads.

a $300-500 laptop isn’t too painful and i have an audi and vw so i can run vagcom on it as well

aside from cost what’s everyone’s aversion to land cruiser conversion stuff seems much easier to adjust when adding weight and is bulletproof.
 

suprarx7nut

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thanks, i'll give that a shot. I was about to say im not keen on driving around with pressurized tubes of fluid controlling ride.

then my brain was like, dummy wtf do you think shocks / struts are.

It's even better than that: What do you think your BRAKES are? It's almost an indentical system, in principle, to the AHC system. They're both high pressure hydraulic fluid controlled by a pump and a series of valves/tubes and actuators. The braking system is incredibly reliable unless is it neglected. AHC is exactly the same.

not going to work, i’ll all desktop mac based. with the exception of ipads.

a $300-500 laptop isn’t too painful and i have an audi and vw so i can run vagcom on it as well

aside from cost what’s everyone’s aversion to land cruiser conversion stuff seems much easier to adjust when adding weight and is bulletproof.

The AHC issue has many facets and unfortunately the internet is responsible for widespread misinformation in the last decade or so. It's starting to turn around as more and more people share GOOD information on the system here and on other platforms. Here's a quick summary:

1. The term "AHC" was used in many Lexus and Toyota vehicles. The 100 series is the only one I know of that is not reliant on air bags. The 100 series version is designed for off-road use and designed for a highly variable load. If you hear people trash AHC on a sequoia or other Lexus models, they're not talking about the same system on your LX.

2. Very few mechanics know WTF they're doing with AHC. It's frustrating and sad, but it's the truth. Lexus dealer techs are often just as guilty as the shade tree mechanic down the street.

3. Given #2, many owners have taken an AHC vehicle into a shop only to have the relatively clueless shop owner given them a MASSIVE quote for replacing every component in the system - even when it really just needs a free torsion bar adjustment. If you're familiar with engine rebuilding it would be the equivalent of recommending a completely brand new engine from Lexus based on an idle stumble without doing any compression test or ignition timing check.

4. The things that go wrong in the AHC system are generally very simple and affordable to address - Globes ($1000 for a set and they last ~10-15 years), AHC fluid and rear spring replacement or front torsion bar adjustment. It often takes far LESS work and is LESS expensive to fix AHC than it is to perform a half-assed removal of the system. Unfortunately, widespread misinformation leads many new owners to think the opposite.

5. AHC performs far better than a stock LC suspension in every circumstance. I can speak clearly to this as I own both. AHC blows it out of the water. If you spend big money for a top shelf, remote reservoir conventional setup, I'm sure you can get more performance in some circumstances, but at that point you're going to spend 2-3x what you would on AHC. For a system to handle as well as AHC on washboard roads at speed, you'll need a setup that is notably stiff and tiring on the highway. AHC can be the "Goldilocks" in both situations. In one second you can change from rally style driving on dirt roads to plush comfort on the highway.

6. You'll find lots of people say things like, "I replaced my AHC and my ride was 100 times better." The problem with this is that those people never had a functional AHC system to compare. A broken AHC system will feel awful. It's similar to a conventional system with blown shocks - they both suck. A functional LC suspension will feel like a normal car. A functional AHC system will be far better than a normal car - both in terms of anti-roll, anti-dive in sport mode and in terms of comfort on anything but the most aggressive sport setting.


It makes sense to replace AHC for some people, but that's probably the most aggressive 1% of owners here or those that are doing weeks at a time away from civilization (real "overlanding"). For normal owners - even those that offroad twice a week - AHC is an awesome system, capable of handling large variances in load. You just have to take an hour or so and educate yourself on how the system works and how to test/adjust it.

Check out my build on my LX for some info. I'll be releasing an AHC tuning video in the future that will go over how I've set it up to handle a fully armored rig.
 

blackohio

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It's even better than that: What do you think your BRAKES are? It's almost an indentical system, in principle, to the AHC system. They're both high pressure hydraulic fluid controlled by a pump and a series of valves/tubes and actuators. The braking system is incredibly reliable unless is it neglected. AHC is exactly the same.



The AHC issue has many facets and unfortunately the internet is responsible for widespread misinformation in the last decade or so. It's starting to turn around as more and more people share GOOD information on the system here and on other platforms. Here's a quick summary:

1. The term "AHC" was used in many Lexus and Toyota vehicles. The 100 series is the only one I know of that is not reliant on air bags. The 100 series version is designed for off-road use and designed for a highly variable load. If you hear people trash AHC on a sequoia or other Lexus models, they're not talking about the same system on your LX.

2. Very few mechanics know WTF they're doing with AHC. It's frustrating and sad, but it's the truth. Lexus dealer techs are often just as guilty as the shade tree mechanic down the street.

3. Given #2, many owners have taken an AHC vehicle into a shop only to have the relatively clueless shop owner given them a MASSIVE quote for replacing every component in the system - even when it really just needs a free torsion bar adjustment. If you're familiar with engine rebuilding it would be the equivalent of recommending a completely brand new engine from Lexus based on an idle stumble without doing any compression test or ignition timing check.

4. The things that go wrong in the AHC system are generally very simple and affordable to address - Globes ($1000 for a set and they last ~10-15 years), AHC fluid and rear spring replacement or front torsion bar adjustment. It often takes far LESS work and is LESS expensive to fix AHC than it is to perform a half-assed removal of the system. Unfortunately, widespread misinformation leads many new owners to think the opposite.

5. AHC performs far better than a stock LC suspension in every circumstance. I can speak clearly to this as I own both. AHC blows it out of the water. If you spend big money for a top shelf, remote reservoir conventional setup, I'm sure you can get more performance in some circumstances, but at that point you're going to spend 2-3x what you would on AHC. For a system to handle as well as AHC on washboard roads at speed, you'll need a setup that is notably stiff and tiring on the highway. AHC can be the "Goldilocks" in both situations. In one second you can change from rally style driving on dirt roads to plush comfort on the highway.

6. You'll find lots of people say things like, "I replaced my AHC and my ride was 100 times better." The problem with this is that those people never had a functional AHC system to compare. A broken AHC system will feel awful. It's similar to a conventional system with blown shocks - they both suck. A functional LC suspension will feel like a normal car. A functional AHC system will be far better than a normal car - both in terms of anti-roll, anti-dive in sport mode and in terms of comfort on anything but the most aggressive sport setting.


It makes sense to replace AHC for some people, but that's probably the most aggressive 1% of owners here or those that are doing weeks at a time away from civilization (real "overlanding"). For normal owners - even those that offroad twice a week - AHC is an awesome system, capable of handling large variances in load. You just have to take an hour or so and educate yourself on how the system works and how to test/adjust it.

Check out my build on my LX for some info. I'll be releasing an AHC tuning video in the future that will go over how I've set it up to handle a fully armored rig.

thanks for the reply. lots to consider and look into. i wonder any experienced guys working with this stuff in the la area can can give a fella a hand when the time comes.
 

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