SOR Stainless Exhaust

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Jun 10, 2017
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Location
Washington
In November of last year I purchased a Stainless Steel down pipe for my 1968 FJ40. And finally in June 2025, got around to installing it.

Attachment.png


The pipe was sourced from SOR and yes, it was expensive. Is it worth it? I guess time will tell. So the next piece needed was a flange, I thought about SOR again….but instead decided on a E-Bay item. A 2-1/4”, 304 stainless 2 bolt sloted flange, 1/2” thick. This was actually a pretty nice item…except the slots were spaced too widely apart…so off to the local machine shop where they milled the slots closer to the ID of the gasket flange. Thank you to Cannon Machine Products, Kennewick Wa…they didn’t even charge me, Woo Hoo!

Attachment_1.png


Next was the fit up….2 things to remember if you decide to go this route…the gasket flange interferes with the exhaust flange studs and the stub that pokes up into the cast iron manifold is to longe….the crush gasket would have never sealed.

Attachment_2.png


Attachment_3.png


A grinder and port-a-band took care of that issue.

Attachment_4.png


As you can see, my original pipe was insulated, and I decided to go that route again….only do a better job of wrapping the pipe, plus get it further back toward the muffler. This reduces the heat in the engine bay and under your feet….I use a Heat Shield Products, it has a woven silica 1/2” thick insulation layer, plus an aluminum backing. This stuff is available from Summit racing, it is also expensive (as much as SOR’s pipe)….but it’s the best I’ve found. Standard exhaust wrap just doesn’t cut the radiant heat like this stuff. The wrap comes in various lengths and widths…for the 68, 12” X 72” will take you from the flange to the muffler. For the correct diameter, it’ll be 8-3/4”…this will give you a 1” overlap…stuff cuts like butter with a box knife…just remember, measure twice, cut once…the stuff is too pricey to screw up.

And since I had the pipe on the ground, I could get a complete 360 degree wrap around the pipe….instead of a partial wrap.

Attachment_5.png


Once wrapped and secured, install with a new Felpro flange gasket….

Attachment_6.png


And that’s it….the SOR pipe fits over the Skid plate, length and bends are perfect….just the gasket flange and stub need a bit of adjustment.

Be good, keep it between the ditches.

MMJennings
 
Follow Up….Road Test

I drove the rig to Work this morning…..first thing I noticed is the rig is ‘substantially’ quieter. The trip to work is approximately 12 miles, 1/2 freeway, 1/2 in town….In both conditions I can notice the difference. Doing a complete wrap of the exhaust really cuts down on the exhaust ‘drone’….that I didn’t even realize was there, Woo Hoo!
🤣🤣🤣
 
In November of last year I purchased a Stainless Steel down pipe for my 1968 FJ40. And finally in June 2025, got around to installing it.

View attachment 3929781

The pipe was sourced from SOR and yes, it was expensive. Is it worth it? I guess time will tell. So the next piece needed was a flange, I thought about SOR again….but instead decided on a E-Bay item. A 2-1/4”, 304 stainless 2 bolt sloted flange, 1/2” thick. This was actually a pretty nice item…except the slots were spaced too widely apart…so off to the local machine shop where they milled the slots closer to the ID of the gasket flange. Thank you to Cannon Machine Products, Kennewick Wa…they didn’t even charge me, Woo Hoo!

View attachment 3929782

Next was the fit up….2 things to remember if you decide to go this route…the gasket flange interferes with the exhaust flange studs and the stub that pokes up into the cast iron manifold is to longe….the crush gasket would have never sealed.

View attachment 3929783

View attachment 3929787

A grinder and port-a-band took care of that issue.

View attachment 3929785

As you can see, my original pipe was insulated, and I decided to go that route again….only do a better job of wrapping the pipe, plus get it further back toward the muffler. This reduces the heat in the engine bay and under your feet….I use a Heat Shield Products, it has a woven silica 1/2” thick insulation layer, plus an aluminum backing. This stuff is available from Summit racing, it is also expensive (as much as SOR’s pipe)….but it’s the best I’ve found. Standard exhaust wrap just doesn’t cut the radiant heat like this stuff. The wrap comes in various lengths and widths…for the 68, 12” X 72” will take you from the flange to the muffler. For the correct diameter, it’ll be 8-3/4”…this will give you a 1” overlap…stuff cuts like butter with a box knife…just remember, measure twice, cut once…the stuff is too pricey to screw up.

And since I had the pipe on the ground, I could get a complete 360 degree wrap around the pipe….instead of a partial wrap.

View attachment 3929786

Once wrapped and secured, install with a new Felpro flange gasket….

View attachment 3929784

And that’s it….the SOR pipe fits over the Skid plate, length and bends are perfect….just the gasket flange and stub need a bit of adjustment.

Be good, keep it between the ditches.

MMJennings
Nice work! I really appreciate when someone includes off the shelf part numbers for need to get quick parts like the flange gasket.
 
Nice writeup Mark! Do you have headers as well? Ive heard they can cut down temps under the hood.
No Headers, just the stock cast iron anchor….that was ceramicated when I built the engine in 2017/18. Not sure if that helps, but it looks cool, and believe it or not, better than 90% is still on there. The cast iron manifold is only a problem when it’s hot outside and I turn it off. It’s a 68, so no fan to cool the carb. Heat percolates the float bowl and will flood her out…..so on a hot day the rule is…….if you turn it off, make sure you’re where you want to be for the next 20 minutes….let the beast cool down.
 
No Headers, just the stock cast iron anchor….that was ceramicated when I built the engine in 2017/18. Not sure if that helps, but it looks cool, and believe it or not, better than 90% is still on there. The cast iron manifold is only a problem when it’s hot outside and I turn it off. It’s a 68, so no fan to cool the carb. Heat percolates the float bowl and will flood her out…..so on a hot day the rule is…….if you turn it off, make sure you’re where you want to be for the next 20 minutes….let the beast cool down.
I just learned about the carb fan... decided to source some components to get that put back in. Im leaving headers/exhaust as-is for now, but its nice to know you can get them ceramicated! I'm envious of the quiet exhaust, but that is a project for a future day. nice work!
 
Good idea on the exhaust wrap. I had wanted to do it forever but I had always read that "it will cause your exhaust to rust/corrode". But that thing heats up so hot I don't see how, the moisture would just evaporate after 5 minutes of driving. Your posts are always informative @Mark Jennings, so I'm looking forward to giving this a try now!

And I wanna point out, I belive the majority of the heat we feel inside the cab is from that darn exhaust pipe!! I've been driving with my transmission tunnel off for the past 4 months. And geeze, it's fricken hot. I always believed it was the transmission that created all the heat and made the transmission tunnel hot to the touch (ouch). Makes "sence" because the transmission is covered up by the transmission tunnel, right? But now I can be driving all day and place my hand directly onto the transmission itself without burning my hand. All the hot/heat air comes from the exhaust that runs under our driver's seat and thst itself heats up the transmission hump/tunnel. It acts as a "heat-shield" in a way by blocking all the hot air from getting into the cab when it's put in it's place.

So, wrapping the exhaust here I hope will reduce the heat. Adding some heat shields along the length of the exhaust pipe would help even more. Then adding a reflective backing on the underside of the transmission tunnel and lastly a set of rubber floor mats! Ha! Every degree in temperature helps when you're running hot with no air conditioning.
 

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