Some newbie questions? Please be gentle

[poppy]

I have a couple questions and I read the faq's and other stickies but couldn't get some of them up, but did find lots of usefull info. Anyway I recently bought a 93 shortbed with the 3.0 manual. It came with a 4'' suspension and 2''body lift. Has 35''M/Ts. The second day I had it I was doing a little lite wheeling and broke the side gear shaft where it had been welded before. Then when I popped the diff cover off I found the Lincoln Locker. So now I am in search off a front diff. After learning to decipher the codes I am now in search of a 4.10. 1st question, is there a way to find out the gearing on a diff thats out of the truck. I could do the turn and count method but I found a pic here where the numbers were stamped on the side of the ring. Are they all stamped? Any other way to find out.2nd Ineed to change the u-joints at the back yoke rear driveshaft. When I called the guy who usually does press work for me he said some of the u joints aren't changeable and it does look like a real treat to press out. Are these changeable? Which brings me to number three, I've been thinking about buying one of those u-joint presses from Harbor Freight. I seen over at Jeep.com several people are using them but I have had mixed results with some of their tools ( Broke a vise, bench grinder that quit bench grinding ) Anyone have any success with them. Last question. The Haynes manual I have says Dexron ll for the transfer case but the Autozone and it's clones say 80w90 ??? I have more questions but will try more research. Thanx for any help POPPY

 

[pappy]

1st question, is there a way to find out the gearing on a diff thats out of the truck.

Yes, mark a ring gear tooth. While turning the pinon flange count the teeth until you get back to the marked tooth. Do the same for the pinon gear. Divide the ring gear count by the pinon gear count ... that will be your ratio.

2nd Ineed to change the u-joints at the back yoke rear driveshaft. When I called the guy who usually does press work for me he said some of the u joints aren't changeable and it does look like a real treat to press out. Are these changeable?

Yes, but as you said they can be a challenge to replace.

ILast question. The Haynes manual I have says Dexron ll for the transfer case but the Autozone and it's clones say 80w90 ???

I believe the manual tranny tc's will use gear oil ... 80W90. I highly recommend the acquisition of a Factory Service Manual. Spendy? Darn right. Worth it? You bet!

 

[KLF]

After learning to decipher the codes I am now in search of a 4.10. 1st question, is there a way to find out the gearing on a diff thats out of the truck. I could do the turn and count method but I found a pic here where the numbers were stamped on the side of the ring. Are they all stamped? Any other way to find out.

I don't believe the factory OEM gears have the ratio stamped in the edge of the ring gear. Assuming you are talking about a factory setup diff, there is a paint code on the end of the pinion that should tell you the ratio, I can't remember the details. But Pappy has the best and most reliable method: count the teeth, do the math.

2nd Ineed to change the u-joints at the back yoke rear driveshaft. When I called the guy who usually does press work for me he said some of the u joints aren't changeable and it does look like a real treat to press out. Are these changeable?

All Toyota u-joints are changeable, but they can be darned hard to get out. Make sure to only replace with OEM u-joints, and keep them greased often.

Which brings me to number three, I've been thinking about buying one of those u-joint presses from Harbor Freight. I seen over at Jeep.com several people are using them but I have had mixed results with some of their tools ( Broke a vise, bench grinder that quit bench grinding ) Anyone have any success with them.

I have the big orange 20-ton Harbor-Fright press, no complaints, and I've used it a lot. Most of the rest of their tools are junk though. Check craigslist in your area, you might find a bargain.

Last question. The Haynes manual I have says Dexron ll for the transfer case but the Autozone and it's clones say 80w90 ??? I have more questions but will try more research. Thanx for any help POPPY

Gear oil ONLY in the R150F manual tranny transfer cases. The Haynes must be confused with the automatic tranny. Yes, absolutely, get a Factory Service Manual.

 

[pappy]

A little homework:

• 4.10 = 41 teeth ring, 10 teeth pinion
• 4.30 = 43 teeth ring, 10 teeth pinion
• 4.56 (4.556) = 41 teeth ring, 9 teeth pinion
• 4.88 (4.875) = 39 teeth ring, 8 teeth pinion

These are the common mini-truck gear options. There is another option used on early trucks (35:8), but I'm not sure it was used on US trucks.

 

[poppy]

Thanx for responding to my questions with good info. I have been on other forums where they treat anyone new with insults for bothering them. Seems to be a lot of good people here. I have more questions about a bad negative camber problem but I need to find out which brand lift kit I have. Am going to order oem u-joints today, and when I do find a front diff i'm going to ask if I can pop the cover off. If they have nothing to hide they should let me. Thanx again POPPY

 

[PGH854runner]

where are you located i believe i have an entire front IFS housing that is 4.10 that i would let go cheap...........also anyone know how to tell gear ratio from the VIN?

 

[pappy]

...........also anyone know how to tell gear ratio from the VIN?

Assuming nothing has been changed by a PO, you can determine the gear ratio from the VIN tag, but not from the VIN number (the dealer can, you can't). Go here to learn how.

 

[poppy]

Front diff

I am in northern Indiana. We see a lot of lake effect snow in the winter so when I found this 93 Toyota with no rust I jumped on it. Pittsburg Pa is a pretty good drive from me but thanx for the offer POPPY

 

[Hilux]

axe that Haynes...FAQ has a link to DL a FSM...