(Solved!!) 2000 LX470 Grinding noise when in D or R. Car won't move unless central diff lock is enabled. Help! (1 Viewer)

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99.9% chance a c clip popped off and you've got a stripped hub flange and axle in the front.
What a great feeling calling that from a mile away. :rofl:

Sorry to poke fun and laugh at your expense OP, this is a common "newbie" thing. Luckily if your CV's look ok you just need some new drive flanges, c clips, and you're on your way. Check out @cruiseroutfit cruiseroutfitters.com for the parts. If the CV is bas it'll be a little tougher but nothing crazy. Easy diagnosis is good. A blown front diff is a much larger pain.
 
So you now know what the issue is - stripped out hub splines. Just google youtube videos on CV axle replacement for the 100 series landcruisers and it will walk you through the whole process. Be aware that yes you have to jack it up, you'll also need to disconnect the knuckle from the upper control arm and often the outer tie rod end so you can create enough space to put it all back together. You should also be looking at repacking all the bearings if not actually replacing them while you're in there.

As for why it only drove when you engaged the center diff lock. In standard mode the center diff is an open differential, just like the standard front and rear diff. Having a completely stripped out front hub caused the front differential to just spin because it was "open", meaning no resistance was there to engage the diff. When you locked the center diff you closed the "open" front end by locking the front and rear drive shafts , so now the rear wheels would propel the vehicle. Because the front wheels were now spinning at the same speed as the CV axle you didn't hear the grinding noise. If you had driven it a bunch around corners you would have eventually heard some noise as the different tires spun at slightly different speeds. But since you're new to this once it is all fixed you don't drive the vehicle on paved roads with the center diff locked, the torque put on the system through turns on paved roads can destroy it quick.
Thanks for the clarification, was really looking out for an explanation like this. Will alert my dad that the car might suffer further damage, let's see what happens from here. I did a rough calculation and to properly fix this issue (replace axle, purchase grease and gear oil, buy/pack bearings) will take circa 1000 USD which is like 482,500 Nigerian Naira (aka it's a s*** ton lol). So yeah, definitely holding off on replacing axle. But anyhow, Cheers!!
 
What a great feeling calling that from a mile away. :rofl:

Sorry to poke fun and laugh at your expense OP, this is a common "newbie" thing. Luckily if your CV's look ok you just need some new drive flanges, c clips, and you're on your way. Check out @cruiseroutfit cruiseroutfitters.com for the parts. If the CV is bas it'll be a little tougher but nothing crazy. Easy diagnosis is good. A blown front diff is a much larger pain.
Yeah, no problem, I was almost certain it was just the flange and CV, but I hate to second-guess stuff (especially drivetrain stuff ugh), so yeah, made a new post just to be sure.
 
The bolt and washer thing while not appropriate in normal settings is something worth remembering when out in the woods.

Scottb4857: That was an awesome, detailed explanation!
 
Thanks for the clarification, was really looking out for an explanation like this. Will alert my dad that the car might suffer further damage, let's see what happens from here. I did a rough calculation and to properly fix this issue (replace axle, purchase grease and gear oil, buy/pack bearings) will take circa 1000 USD which is like 482,500 Nigerian Naira (aka it's a s*** ton lol). So yeah, definitely holding off on replacing axle. But anyhow, Cheers!!
As long as that front is stripped out and not engaging, chances of doing damage to the center diff is pretty small if you don't drive like a madman. I had a CV axle pop out from the front diff while a ways from home, which creates the same issue. Drove it home about 200 miles with the center diff engaged, albeit not at the normal 70-80 mph. Didn't cause any problems, but I did go ahead and replaced the gear oil in there just in case and it looked/smelled just fine.
 
As long as that front is stripped out and not engaging, chances of doing damage to the center diff is pretty small if you don't drive like a madman. I had a CV axle pop out from the front diff while a ways from home, which creates the same issue. Drove it home about 200 miles with the center diff engaged, albeit not at the normal 70-80 mph. Didn't cause any problems, but I did go ahead and replaced the gear oil in there just in case and it looked/smelled just fine.
Yeah, the car isn't really used that much. Only used like once every 3 days and driven at a max of around 70 mph. The problem, though, is for every drive, the car takes at least 2 full 180 degree turns, meaning the wheels are definitely going at different speeds and if that torque can damage the center diff, then I'm down for getting a used or refurbished CV axle and stick that in. It'll probably be better than that screw and washer trick which surprisingly lasted about 10k miles (1k of it being offroad driving too).
 
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Yeah, the car isn't really used that much. Only used like once every 3 days and driven at a max of around 70 mph. The problem, though, is for every drive, the car takes at least 2 full 180 degree turns, meaning the wheels are definitely going at different speeds and if that torque can damage the front diff, then I'm down for getting a used or refurbished CV axle and stick that in. It'll probably be better than that screw and washer trick which surprisingly lasted about 10k miles (1k of it being offroad driving too).
With the front end essentially "open", and a rear differential that is also open, you can turn as much as you want and won't create any torque issues in the driveline by having the center locked. It's just that the center diff isn't really designed for high speed in the locked position. It can do it, just avoid doing it too much while you're in the process of getting everything together to get it all fixed.
 
With the front end essentially "open", and a rear differential that is also open, you can turn as much as you want and won't create any torque issues in the driveline by having the center locked. It's just that the center diff isn't really designed for high speed in the locked position. It can do it, just avoid doing it too much while you're in the process of getting everything together to get it all fixed.
Okay, will keep in mind, thanks!
 
Also quick question: How much would I be able to get a used or remanufactured CV for (OEM and non-OEM)?

Checked Toyota catalog and it's about 850 USD (yikes) but I'm seeing people getting CVs for $62, $12, even $8 lol. So just as a general estimate, how much would an OEM and/or non-OEM used CV be?
 
Also quick question: How much would I be able to get a used or remanufactured CV for (OEM and non-OEM)?

Checked Toyota catalog and it's about 850 USD (yikes) but I'm seeing people getting CVs for $62, $12, even $8 lol. So just as a general estimate, how much would an OEM and/or non-OEM used CV be?
Do yourself a favor and buy OEM. $450 at mcgeorge toyota. They last 250k miles.
 
I would search Partsouq.com. Due to your location I think Dubai would be a closer origin (and therefor likely cheaper) to ship from than a USA dealer
 
Alright, thanks guys! Cheers!
 
Revising this thread b/c I came across it while searching google. I am having similar issues with my 2004 LX470 that has around 225k on the ODO. I've never had any drive train issues until recently, but I'm frustrated b/c I can't find the problem. I was wondering if anyone that is still following this thread, could checkout the thread I posted, read what symptoms my LX is having, and hopefully help me out.

 

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