Soa or OME (1 Viewer)

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One last question. Proabably towards the end of summer This truck will get a v8. If done right will this be safe at 85 on the freeway? and will it tow ok with the softer suspension? Nothing to heavy at most a 12' trailer with a couple dirtbikes and a quad.

As you know from driving your rig the steering is not as tight as late model vehicles and it will never corner like them either. If you really have to cruise that fast you'll want more caster and a tiny bit more toe-in to help it stay straight. Tire choice will also dictate higher speed safety and handling. As for towing I hope you're not planning on towing at 85mph. Not safe for you or others around you, just plan in more time for your trip. You'll get better mileage plus and the harder you push the faster it will wear out.

What transmission do you plan on running with your v8 swap because that too will factor in. If you want to tow some weight and keep softer springs perhaps some kind of airbag setup will help (gonna have to research how to get airbags to articulate so you don't rip them apart at droop) but like Wile said it's going to be a compromise if you want to do both. There's nothing wrong with a compromise but it won't be the best performer in both worlds. I wanted to do both so that's one of the main reasons I stuck with leaves instead of going down the "link it" road. It's going to be hard to beat the chevy 64" rear spring swap for load, flex, ride, and price.
 
For your spring over, the stick on kits (just throw the brackets on the frame and weld them up) you will end up wth 6-7" lift like Dan said. If you are willing to do a little fab work and since you are only running 35s, you can pretty easily get that down to a 3" spring over as long as you are ok with cutting sheet metal.

I'm going to be running 39.5s and it was my goal to do the 3" SOA but the only area that screwed me is the rear wheel opening being part of the door. I can't cut enough to make it work and I really don't feel like reconfiguring the doors and jambs to make it work. I'm going to stick with the 4" lift.

The V8 shouldn't be an issue. IIRC, it is roughly 200 lbs. lighter than the 2F. As others have stated, the tracking of the truck is all about the tire used, the castor, and the toe. If you get that dialed (not hard to do) you will be fine.
 
I'm at 4-4.5" now and it'll probably come down another .5" in the next couple of months.
I'm at about 4.5" to 5"...no frame notching. Although I do need a flatter pitman arm.

Kurtis - I'm local if you want check out my SOA. Meantime you can see pics here<----link
 
I think Dan's reffering to putting the shackle hanger under the frame rather than sleeveing it through the frame.

Roger that. Just illustrating what a little more work will net.
 
Four linking the rear

Kurtis,
PM me and we can swap info. I am in AZ as well and can help you out with both or one of your ideas on the 60!
Rondog - Vigilante fabworks

P.S.- this is just in mock-up stage, but you can get an idea!


I have a 1985 fj60 that I have been fixing up lately, and I'm ready to finish it up and would like some advice. I have been limited in what I can do by lack of a garage I just bought a house so now I can finally get some work done after i close in a couple of weeks. My question is what will ride/flex better, OME or SOA. The truck now has a 2in bl 2 1/2 " over stock shackles and aals. Honestly it rides pretty good right now and flexes like crazy but I want another two inches or so in case I want 35s as i'll need tires in a few thousand miles . I don't mind the body lift because it keeps the cg down. I've heard nothing but good things about ome but I was wondering does it ride better than SOA? or is it the other way around? How about flex?

one other question. Is there a write up anywhere for four linking the rear? I'd be interested in four linking the rear and soa on the front if its been done.
rear tri link.jpg
 
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RonDog

Doesn't that type spring tend to unload in a off camber situation? are they live able?are you planing on adding a winch to suck down the suspension so it locks out?
 
more good stuff.

Thanks again for all the good info. It looks like SOA is defiantly the way to end up with this project.

As for the towing after I typed that I saw where the confusion would come in. I defiantly wouldnt want to have a 60 pulling anything at 85. I would though like to be able to drive it 85 and not worry. That and my wife has a lead foot and if she occasionly drives it want it to be as stable as feasable on road.

I might leave the bl on for a little just to have a ridicously tall cruiser but I would ditch it for sure.
Ronnie I will have you give you a call. Have you tested that out at all yet? The concept looks awesome.

So the part i'm still a little grey on is the front drive shaft. If I did it I would like to do it as straight forward as possible probably wouldn't mess with the spring positioning. typically what does this do for a lift height? Soa on stock springs with an aal. and modifications that need to happen with the front drive shaft?
 
Since I only run 33's, and don't have any personal experience with SOA, I could be ignored as an "armchair" QB...but here's my perspective on this topic...

SOA gives a lot of lift, as mentioned above. For 37+ tires, for sure this is the only way to go. However, for 35's (which is what you said you wanted to run) some guys are making it work w/SUA. Various combo's out there...Alcan's can be customized to give enough lift, some go OEM+bodylift+shackles. Some go OME + cutting the fenders.

Personally, 35's are in my future, but the idea of keeping the CG low seems like a really good idea. Better/safer dd, and perhaps easier on sidehills. Maybe cutting the fenders is anathma to some, but SOA is a big change too.

I'm not saying one way is better than the other for you, only you can figure that out. I'm only offering up options that have been discussed on MUD.
 

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