Soa best options?

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Yea that's true you guys think the 63inch springs shack rev and staying sua would be ok for the time being and would move me I'n the right direction for the spring over later ?
 
Yea that's true you guys think the 63inch springs shack rev and staying sua would be ok for the time being and would move me I'n the right direction for the spring over later ?

No. Skip the shackle reversal.
 
So here is what I am thinking at this point I am looking to order the ruff stuff 60 /62 kit today with plans of going with the shackle rev kits 63 Inch chevy front and rear ford 250 towers and staying sua for the time being till I have decided on the hydro the hydro is looking to be I'n the area of 850-900 bucks or you think I should just knock it all out at the same time I am not planing to change the 33 yet till they are worn out cause I would still like to do some rides this summer and not be building the whole year

You'll have a hard time running 63" springs in the front of your cruiser, unless you want to do a bunch of frame modifications. They are way longer than stock fj60 springs.
 
What are your thoughts on front springs ? 57 Inch ? I just order the ruff stuff 60 Soa kit about ten mins ago with the shackle rev did I mess up ? I figured the kit would have more than enough for what I am trying to do any ideas I'n shocks ?
 
For front springs, I run the stockers with a long add-a-leaf. Works great and no need to move hangers.

Don't to the shackle reverse. Lots of reasons not to but the biggest is drive shaft compression-as the spring compresses it also moves backwards and really affects your front drive shaft.

Read this: Explanation re: Factory Shackle Location - Land Cruiser Tech from IH8MUD.com

If you just gotta change your front springs, I've heard Chevy 52s work. I think these came on the back of Tahoes. You will have to change hangers.

Ruff Stuff makes great stuff. You'll be happy with the pieces you get from him. I installed my Chev 63s with his kit.
 
I'd love to see pics of your $50 springover....


Stock shocks limit the **** out of your front wheel travel. You still did not address the brake lines.

As has been pointed out above, even doing things yourself, it costs more money than you might think..

I agree that u can do it on the cheap, but for 50$, that would be tough... I have about 250$ in my SO and that includes nice 30"ss brake lines... But by the time it gets to the point where i would call it finished it will have at least another 250$ in it... Oh, there is 500$ in there for my used tires too, but i got a great deal on those...

I still could use new shocks and my rear DS could use some attention... for the front DS i was able to use the yoke off of a mini truck to gain the little bit of length i needed...

The steering is just home made high steer like most of us built 15 years ago when no manufactures were making high steer stuff...

I would love to be able to buy all the parts mentioned/needed by everyone, but it is just not in my bugdet... I did all the same things years ago on the couple of other SO cruisers i have had and they held up great, so why not just do it again...
 
What are your thoughts on front springs ? 57 Inch ? I just order the ruff stuff 60 Soa kit about ten mins ago with the shackle rev did I mess up ? I figured the kit would have more than enough for what I am trying to do any ideas I'n shocks ?

Did you tell ruffstuff you're using chevy 63's on the rear. 63's are narrower than stock springs and will need different parts than what comes in the kit. They will put the parts you need in the kit if you let them know.
Unless you're going to wheel it hard you probably won't be happy with the SR.

+1 on ruffstuff's quality. Your frame will break before their stuff does.
 
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I went with the Toyota rear kit there is only .25 diff I can cut some large face washers .187 and be ok I would think ? Am I wrong ?
 
Lots of reasons not to but the biggest is drive shaft compression-as the spring compresses it also moves backwards and really affects your front drive shaft.

shorter front DS solve this in a heartbeat ..
 
Or could I move my axle forward and help my approach angle and kill two birds with one stone ?
 
I'd love to see pics of your $50 springover....


Stock shocks limit the **** out of your front wheel travel. You still did not address the brake lines.

As has been pointed out above, even doing things yourself, it costs more money than you might think..



ilmao your a dingel berry dude!! never ever at any point in time have i said that my soa cost 50 bucks!!! check your facts before you start yappin your chompers!! and as soon as it light out ill send you some pics just to shut you up!!
:beer:
 
I agree that u can do it on the cheap, but for 50$, that would be tough... I have about 250$ in my SO and that includes nice 30"ss brake lines... But by the time it gets to the point where i would call it finished it will have at least another 250$ in it... Oh, there is 500$ in there for my used tires too, but i got a great deal on those...

I still could use new shocks and my rear DS could use some attention... for the front DS i was able to use the yoke off of a mini truck to gain the little bit of length i needed...

The steering is just home made high steer like most of us built 15 years ago when no manufactures were making high steer stuff...

I would love to be able to buy all the parts mentioned/needed by everyone, but it is just not in my bugdet... I did all the same things years ago on the couple of other SO cruisers i have had and they held up great, so why not just do it again...



i never once said my spring over cost 50 dollars that other guy is an idiot i said mine cost 340 to do the soa and i got a smokin deal on my tires and rims for 300! so 640 total! anyways i agree with you it can be done cheap and right if you know what your doing!!:beer:
 
shorter front DS solve this in a heartbeat ..

Not if you have a shackle reversal. The SR moves the axle arc rotation point from near the driveshaft to away from it.

Meaning, the axle will travel further in its range of motion relative to the driveshaft than in the conventional setup.

So, because of this, a long travel driveshaft is needed to accommodate a SR. If you lengthen the DS enough to not have it come apart in two pieces, you'll bottom it out on compression.
 
ilmao your a dingel berry dude!! never ever at any point in time have i said that my soa cost 50 bucks!!! check your facts before you start yappin your chompers!! and as soon as it light out ill send you some pics just to shut you up!!
:beer:

i never once said my spring over cost 50 dollars that other guy is an idiot i said mine cost 340 to do the soa and i got a smokin deal on my tires and rims for 300! so 640 total! anyways i agree with you it can be done cheap and right if you know what your doing!!:beer:

And I pointed out that you were missing parts of the conversion like new shocks and extended brakelines. In addition to the brakelines, did you have to alter your draglink? How much did the other steering arm cost? No Cut-N-Turn obviously? Modifications to your front DS to allow it to really flex? Without those things, you will limit your articulation (one of the main reasons to do a SOA).

You must have made new U bolt plates for the rear. Getting good tires/rims for $300 is not knowing what you are doing, it's stumbling into a great deal. Lots of people do this when doing conversions. The little crap ends up costing a considerable amount of money. Even if you have steel sitting around. It came from somewhere...

You need to relax...
 
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It can be done on a budget, you just have to think of budget in relative terms... I had 300 in the highsteer kit, 200 in tires after selling my old ones, 40 for u bolts, 150 for both dc shafts(extended them myself), 150 for shocks, 120 for aal's and bushings, 0 for knuckle rebuild(was recently done, just cleaned and reused), 40 for brakelines, 0 for cut and turn(just a good bit of time), 20 in scrap box tubing and plate steel from work, 100 for used locker, and 0 for cussing and bloody knuckles. I just accumulated parts over a few months to spread it out, a couple hundred a month is alot easier to swallow than one 1100$ bill. Keep in mind I fabbed all shock brackets, spring perches, driveshafts, and shackles myself, did my own cnt, and didn't really have any snags along the way.. I was sure I could get it done for under 500$ when I started, I have on other rigs, these dudes are just not cheap... Just my 110,000 cents...
 
ilmao your a dingel berry dude!! *edit* ill send you some pics just to shut you up!!
:beer:

that other guy is an idiot i said mine cost 340 to do the soa and i got a smokin deal on my tires and rims for 300! so 640 total! !:beer:


Dozer--You sound like a 12 year old. Are you living with your parents? Mace is a very experienced, smart and helpful guy and he's also a moderator here. You are coming off as a newbie douchebag, and if you continue in this trajectory you are likely to be banned. If that's your intention, fine, but if not crawl back under your rock and go away anyway.

IH8MUD tends to be pretty civilized I'll ask you to respect that and the others on the forum.

People are trying to help you stay safe and you are alienating many of the people who could actually know a lot more than you do about this game. You can do a crappy job of anything but it doesn't make it the right way or the safe way.
 
Dozer--You sound like a 12 year old. Are you living with your parents? Mace is a very experienced, smart and helpful guy and he's also a moderator here. You are coming off as a newbie douchebag, and if you continue in this trajectory you are likely to be banned. If that's your intention, fine, but if not crawl back under your rock and go away anyway.

IH8MUD tends to be pretty civilized I'll ask you to respect that and the others on the forum.

People are trying to help you stay safe and you are alienating many of the people who could actually know a lot more than you do about this game. You can do a crappy job of anything but it doesn't make it the right way or the safe way.


exactly what i was trying to do in the first place was help the guy that started this thread with some options since he said he didnt have alot of money so i gave him the option i went with then dingel berry started putting me down for it saying if you do it on the cheap then its a crap half ass build that isnt right! does it piss me off you bet it does where do you think all the parts that everyone spends spends all this money on comes from? people build them in the first place thats where so because i dont spend 1200 plus dollars on a soa then mine is a peace of crap lol thats just stupid i can build everything you all spend money on for less than half the price and i have fun doing so it win win! you wanna kick me of this site for having an opion then do it! if you dont like my first original post then dont reply with a bunch of hair brain comments!!:beer:
 
Dozer, I never said any of your stuff was crap. It was not implied either. I pointed out that there are a multitude of things that matter that you overlooked in your cost estimate. And you have yet to address any of the things I mentioned other than to start calling names.

If you look at any of my build threads you will notice that I am pretty damn cheap about what I put on my rig. So doing things inexpensively is a great thing. HOWEVER, I also try to be realistic about what I price things at, and what needs to be done in the mod process.

You need to settle down. If you come on here calling people names and running half cocked you will get a vacation. If you just relax a bit, you might actually be able to make some friends and possibly learn something in the process...
 
And I pointed out that you were missing parts of the conversion like new shocks and extended brakelines. In addition to the brakelines, did you have to alter your draglink? How much did the other steering arm cost? No Cut-N-Turn obviously? Modifications to your front DS to allow it to really flex? Without those things, you will limit your articulation (one of the main reasons to do a SOA).

You must have made new U bolt plates for the rear. Getting good tires/rims for $300 is not knowing what you are doing, it's stumbling into a great deal. Lots of people do this when doing conversions. The little **** ends up costing a considerable amount of money. Even if you have steel sitting around. It came from somewhere...

You need to relax...


number 1 i am very relaxed i just dont take kindly to someone telling me my work is crap cause i didnt buy all the normal 1200 work of stuff! so first no there is no cut and turn why? beacuse i am going to be putting a diesel in here in a few weeks and had the plan of doing so when i did the soa after its all done the drive train will be moved back a bit and i shoulndt need one i figured better off to leave it till i know ill need it second i torn the shocks off my old toyota and the mount i made for it and put them on also the brakes lines came off it also it was an old lifted toy i blew up awhile back i guess you could count that as money spent but i only see it as free parts sitting around doing nothing! yes i did alter the steering system i made my own double arm! an i didnt gear it why? with the diesel 3.70's will be perfect! anyways you can do it right and perfectly safe on the cheap if you know what you are doing! my original post was to help the guy who started the thread on cost options not get tore down by you!!!!!!!!:beer:
 

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