Hey I want to do a SOA and a c+t but I would like to read up on the process a little. I tryed to search for a thread but it comes back with a ton of results. Does anyone have a direct link to a good thread on either of these? I'm more interested in the c+t but anything would help. Thanks
soa and c+t how to
- Thread starter jgreen
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I described it as best as I could in my SOA write up.
One thing I would recommend doing is to do the C and T ON THE RIG...Bolted up into postion. I was apprehensive about the jack stands and all and is ultimately why I did it the way I did.
Look up posts started by "chicago". Something is bound to be useful to you in there.
Unfortunately I forget the title I had it under. FJ62 SOA begins, or SOA begins or something like that.
Hope that helps!
Chicago
One thing I would recommend doing is to do the C and T ON THE RIG...Bolted up into postion. I was apprehensive about the jack stands and all and is ultimately why I did it the way I did.
Look up posts started by "chicago". Something is bound to be useful to you in there.
Unfortunately I forget the title I had it under. FJ62 SOA begins, or SOA begins or something like that.
Hope that helps!
Chicago
- Thread starter
- #5
when you say do the c+t bolted in place are you talking about getting my pinion angle where i want it and weld the perchs then set my camber with the wieght on the axle tube?
YES!
I came up with a really "shade tree" method utilizing a pipe vice...it worked, but it would have been much easier and more precise if I had set the perches, tacked em in then bolted the assy. up, then did the turn.
The one thing to watch out for is getting the cut depth deep enough so the knuckles will turn.
I used 2 methods, one for each side. I tried a pipe, roll cutter for one side and hated it. It was hard to see the line between the housing and the knuckle sleeve, and unless the housing is near perfect, it hard to keep it tracking evenly.
The second method was I used a cutoff wheel on my angle grinder. This is what I recommend. on the cut off disc, I made a mark to the depth I wanted with a paint marker and I also marked how far in I wanted to make the cut on the housing and I went for it. Go slow and keep looking for the housing/ sleeve line.
Once the cut is done and youre certain that you have achieved the right depth, bolt that BEOTCH up, grab a breaker of some sort, run it through the races and turn. It will move farily easy IF the depth is right. Make a mark across the cut line, so when the ball ends move, youll know it.
BTW, I would also recommend KEEPING the lower factory perches ON. It will help keep the diff side u bolt in check, save some work, and also help in setting the dimensions for the new perches.
I would go with the ruff stuff perches if I had it to do over, espcially the pre notched one for the diff side. that is a MO FO to get to fit right.
Heres a couple of pics to clear it up!
HTH,
Chicago
Here's a pic of the "NOT TO DO" method!
Oh the things you learn!
The second pic is of the diff side u bolt. You have to bend the u bolts some, and If I had left the lower perch on, it would have kept the u bolt straighter.
I did weld on a retainer to keep it in place, but if I were to do it again, Id definately keep the lower perch on...it would just make it a LOT easier.
Chicago
Oh the things you learn!
The second pic is of the diff side u bolt. You have to bend the u bolts some, and If I had left the lower perch on, it would have kept the u bolt straighter.
I did weld on a retainer to keep it in place, but if I were to do it again, Id definately keep the lower perch on...it would just make it a LOT easier.
Chicago
Read this, its kinda the official write up on it in the tech section good stuff.
http://www.ih8mud.com/tech/soa/index.html
http://www.ih8mud.com/tech/soa/index.html
Proffitt's Cruisers has a good kit with a cut and turned axle housing. Might be worth looking into.
- Thread starter
- #10
one more question
Chicago - thanks for the help that clears up a lot of the questions I had.
can anyone give me a measurement from the front of the fram rails to the c/l of the shackle hanger and what is the stock camber angle.
sorry for all the questions but i just want to be sure cause i've been seeing a lot of numbers latley and it's getting hard to keep track.
Chicago - thanks for the help that clears up a lot of the questions I had.
can anyone give me a measurement from the front of the fram rails to the c/l of the shackle hanger and what is the stock camber angle.
sorry for all the questions but i just want to be sure cause i've been seeing a lot of numbers latley and it's getting hard to keep track.
