So what's driving an 80 like vs a 100?

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Ah, but the difference is my experience matches repeated measured tests from certified 3rd party companies who test this for a living.

Yours..... :doh:

And besides, you're nit picking one specific scenario that's impossible to repeat (ice/snow scenario).

The link you posted does not really speak directly to your scenario. I don't know what tests third parties are doing that directly relate to your scenario, even if you were to take the snow/ice out of it. While one might extrapolate their tests out, to make an assumption that a 15 year old SUV that you brake on the threshold of ABS activation in snow/ice might out brake a full ABS activated full size truck, we really only have your word on it. As I said before, I am very comfortable giving you the exact same credit that you give me, for the exact same thing- Experience.
 
We added another cruiser to the fleet, a 2003 . Biggest differences to me,better ac cooling with rear air and it has more get up and go. I think it handles like our 1991. MIke
 
The link you posted does not really speak directly to your scenario. I don't know what tests third parties are doing that directly relate to your scenario, even if you were to take the snow/ice out of it. While one might extrapolate their tests out, to make an assumption that a 15 year old SUV that you brake on the threshold of ABS activation in snow/ice might out brake a full ABS activated full size truck, we really only have your word on it. As I said before, I am very comfortable giving you the exact same credit that you give me, for the exact same thing- Experience.

I think you're confusing some things here.

First, the numbers I posted above (originally posted by Tools R Us) had nothing to do with stopping on ice/snow, or ABS. They would have been carefully structured tests that rely on repeatability, which means clean dry pavement.

Tools mentions that the numbers aren't directly comparable, what he means is that due to the difference in time of day, temperature, humidity, and about a hundred other factors a vehicle might stop in 128 feet one day and 132 feet the next. Unless you do the tests back to back, you can't directly compare them. But you can get a very good general idea of the difference. 128 is very comparable to 132, but 128 is not comparable to 145.

If you look at how the braking tests are done, you'll find they're quite exacting. There are even standard federal procedures outlined for these.

An example would be: http://www1.eere.energy.gov/vehiclesandfuels/avta/pdfs/afv/braking.pdf


To the original point, you claimed that the 100 series stops better than the 80 series, based solely on the way it felt to you. That's fine, and that may even have been true for your trucks. But that doesn't make it universally true, and it's very misleading to suggest that it is universally true.

The fact is that multiple tests based on the federal standards show that the stopping distance of the 80 and 100 series is very similar. This is not based on "feel" or "experience" but actual scientific testing.

In comparing how things feel, my experience was that the 100 series style braking (in my folks F150, which is very similar to the 100 series) was worse at stopping than the 80 series style braking. I would have put cash down that my folks F150 did not stop anywhere near as well as my 80. Actual testing of such quickly showed me that wasn't true. So I know first hand how "feel" and "experience" can be wrong. ;)

If you still want to assert that the 100 series stops better than the 80 series, feel free to do so, that's your right. But I'll side with knowledgeable folks like Tools R Us, and even better the folks who actually go out, run the tests, and measure the results (all governed by federal standards). They have no reason to lie or cover up the data.

So I guess I'm a bit confused as to why you'd so firmly insist what scientific data shows not to be true. :meh:



Now as to the sub (sub-sub?) point of ABS and stopping on ice/snow, that's a much more nuanced discussion that has as much to do with individual driver control as it does a vehicles stopping ability. I've seen people in vehicles with all the safety features (anti-lock brakes, anti skid control, etc etc etc) not be able to control their vehicle in snow and ice at all....and I've seen people driving around in 20-30 year old vehicles with none of those "safety" features quite literally running circles around the newer vehicles. It's not much different than how one driver with a triple locked built 80 can fail miserably on a line when wheeling, but the older grizzled vet can walk up the same line with open diffs.

Perhaps that discussion should be moved to it's own thread.
 
I pull my 4250# boat all over with my 80, no problems. No bullit up hills but it will easily maintain 60 over the pass.

The real advantage to the 80 is it's ease of maintenence, you can touch the oil pan from under the hood. The obdII sensor will tell you if there is a problem and you can see and touch the component that needs the attention. I have a buddy that needed to replace the starter contacts in his V8 Toyota, it was about $1500, almost all labor. You could do an 80 in an hour. I may buy 100 one day but I will never get rid of the 80.
 
I'll just say that when I switch from my 80 to the 100, the first time I brake in the 100 I usually end up stopping with a hard jolt, having to apologize to the passengers, and with my face almost in the windshield :). OK, the latter a slight exaggeration but they are that much more sensitive/better brakes.
 
I think you're confusing some things here.

First, the numbers I posted above (originally posted by Tools R Us) had nothing to do with stopping on ice/snow, or ABS. They would have been carefully structured tests that rely on repeatability, which means clean dry pavement.

Tools mentions that the numbers aren't directly comparable, what he means is that due to the difference in time of day, temperature, humidity, and about a hundred other factors a vehicle might stop in 128 feet one day and 132 feet the next. Unless you do the tests back to back, you can't directly compare them. But you can get a very good general idea of the difference. 128 is very comparable to 132, but 128 is not comparable to 145.

If you look at how the braking tests are done, you'll find they're quite exacting. There are even standard federal procedures outlined for these.

An example would be: http://www1.eere.energy.gov/vehiclesandfuels/avta/pdfs/afv/braking.pdf


To the original point, you claimed that the 100 series stops better than the 80 series, based solely on the way it felt to you. That's fine, and that may even have been true for your trucks. But that doesn't make it universally true, and it's very misleading to suggest that it is universally true.

The fact is that multiple tests based on the federal standards show that the stopping distance of the 80 and 100 series is very similar. This is not based on "feel" or "experience" but actual scientific testing.

In comparing how things feel, my experience was that the 100 series style braking (in my folks F150, which is very similar to the 100 series) was worse at stopping than the 80 series style braking. I would have put cash down that my folks F150 did not stop anywhere near as well as my 80. Actual testing of such quickly showed me that wasn't true. So I know first hand how "feel" and "experience" can be wrong. ;)

If you still want to assert that the 100 series stops better than the 80 series, feel free to do so, that's your right. But I'll side with knowledgeable folks like Tools R Us, and even better the folks who actually go out, run the tests, and measure the results (all governed by federal standards). They have no reason to lie or cover up the data.

So I guess I'm a bit confused as to why you'd so firmly insist what scientific data shows not to be true. :meh:



Now as to the sub (sub-sub?) point of ABS and stopping on ice/snow, that's a much more nuanced discussion that has as much to do with individual driver control as it does a vehicles stopping ability. I've seen people in vehicles with all the safety features (anti-lock brakes, anti skid control, etc etc etc) not be able to control their vehicle in snow and ice at all....and I've seen people driving around in 20-30 year old vehicles with none of those "safety" features quite literally running circles around the newer vehicles. It's not much different than how one driver with a triple locked built 80 can fail miserably on a line when wheeling, but the older grizzled vet can walk up the same line with open diffs.

Perhaps that discussion should be moved to it's own thread.

I have no problem understanding the numbers/methods, no confusion on what we are talking about, I respect Tools R Us as well. I really don't care to engage with you about all that, it's not the point of this thread.

In my final reply to you in this thread, I will reiterate what I wrote in my first post, and what I have seen as a common point of view from those who have owned both, or extensively driven both:
The 100 series feels much faster/quicker/powerful, brakes felt much better, is quieter (engine and wind noise) and has a more comfortable ride. They are both built solidly and have great fit and finish.
 
Get an 80 with a Hundy engine :D
 
Dang it!!!
Never should have read this thread.
Now I want to trade her '06 Odyssey in for a 100!!!
 
I don't think the brakes should be an issue, they both stop well.
As far as ABS in a Ford F150, from my experience a truck is worlds better with ABS, having driven a truck in the early 80's with no ABS panic stops and icey conditions were scary without any weight in the rear of the truck, even on wet roads you could lock-up the rear brakes and loose control easily (it could also be a lot of fun too!)
I am enjoying this thread as I am considering selling my Mercedes G350 for either another 80 or maybe a 100. I tow a car trailer occasionally but on mostly flat terrain so I think the 80 will be fine, I am sort of leaning that way right now.
Rusty
 
A 100 with the 5 speed auto would be nice. Having spent some time behind the wheel of a relative's newer Sequoia with the V-8 and 5 speed, the power was incrediable. But I'm sure the Sequoia weighes less than my 80.

But I absolutely hated the steering, gas pedle and brakes. Someone mentioned the "disconnected" feeling and that's no joke. I felt like I was driving a video game where you have zero feedback from the vehicle.

I know the Sequoia is no 100, but there are similiarities and my time behind the 100 a few years ago felt almost the same...except the 100 felt heavier, which helped with some feedback and was more "refined".

I think the "perfect" vehicle might be "supercharged 80". Roughly the same power or more than a 100, lighter to start off with by about 500lbs, and once you remove the power advantages of the 100, I don't see it has having any advantages but lots of disadvantages...unless it's a permanant baby carrier and mall shopper, in which the air bags and safety features would give it an edge.

Well, there's always slightly better gas mileage I guess, but then the 80 is much easier to get a real lift out of, ect, etc, etc.
 
oro-o,

if you are a car nut (the Audi V8 thing means you are, I think), you should get a 80. they are so unique and fun to drive. and so few people know what you've got. and they're easier (but not always cheap) to work on. and you usually know when something isn't right before it needs replacing. I say get one. You won't have the electrical gremlins of the Audi really at all.

The towing thing, if it's important, could present a hiccup. as has been mentioned, you'll get there, and the 80 will pull 4000#s. But it will be slow. And you'll want to make sure the 13 year old vehicle has been gone over and is up to spec for that type of work at highway speeds.

I'd buy a pick up truck for towing...or use the hundy.

good luck!
 
At least I can run squirrels when gas prices go through the roof

How do you get them in the tank?

I used to live in NYC, and I always heard you could do impressive things with rodents and the right lube.

Ok, that was uncalled for, but I always "take the funny" when I can.

Since the thread has some new life, I thought I'd update. I was settled on an 80 until I could find none locally in my price range/book range and/or really clean. Spent a good six to eight weeks looking, an hour or more each day, and all over. From Billings to Seattle down to south Oregon and over to Salt Lake City. Many were well used and very high mileage, and many were way, way over book value. I found some nice 91 and 92 variants, but I had to have the DOHC model for the towing. I was also checking out alternatives, like Expeditions, Tahoes, even a few Range Rovers (omg, the maintenance nightmares!). I could not find a single Range Rover from 95 to 2001 model years for sale, at any price, that did not need about $1k in electrical, air suspension, or head or other mechanical repairs right off the bat. Amazing. I even found one great ad here in Seattle, a seller of a '98 4.6 HSE who title his ad "Please help me get out of this abusive relationship." That guy got serious points for honesty, but I wouldn't touch that truck with a ten-foot barge pole.

Two weeks ago I bought a 1998 Acura SLX (I hear you all, "A what?"). It is a gussied up late-model Isuzu Trooper. Has a 3.5l V6 that does 215hp and 250 ft/lbs, so almost 80 level grunt for the towing. It was in great shape, had just been used as a "mall cruiser" it's whole life and had 140k miles on it. I'm super-pleased with it so far. The build quality on it is near-Toyota quality from what I can tell of driving it daily the last two weeks and wrenching on it a little each day. It drives no where near like a 100, but about comparable to an 80. It's really in many respects about a 3/4 or 7/8 scale Land Cruiser. I was lucky that right off the bat I found a clean SLX model in Portland for a great price so I high tailed it down there and brought it back.

I have spent the last two weeks going through every system and refreshing/updating. New shocks, some Energy suspension poly sway bushings and some OME springs in rear totally transformed it to better than new in the handling/ride department. Plus with the Acura variant I get a pleasing interior with nice leather and wood paneling. Going to wire in the brake controller this coming week and see how it does on that front.

I will likely use it for a few years until I find the right, very cherry 80 or early 100 to replace it. It will also give me a chance to put the Audi V8 5spd. up on stands for the winter and go through all the systems and replace the rack, bomb, etc. that are aging. Only 150k on it but it's been almost 20 years since it left the line in Ingolstadt. This car is just too much fun to drive, while still being very luxurious even with it's age, to ever sell.

I did not have these SLX's/Troopers on my radar until I found a listing of an Acura SLX in a trailer towing guide and it's tow rating and hp/torque, which caught my eye. Then I realized the Troopers were not "mall cruisers" but rather serious utility vehicles with heavy ladder frames. And the last years of the Trooper/SLX, 98 to 2002, they had a nice DOHV V6 and better interior accutrements (standard on the Acura and also on the higher end Isuzu models). Reliable and with generous cargo space, great off road ability, these are nice sleeper vehicles if people need a relatively inexpensive but still "serious" SUV.

I will proably
 
Ha! You should hear my 3FE, it sounds like a jet-powered typewriter! :steer:

Our Hundy is pretty quiet though, unless I'm driving it :grinpimp:

Mine sounds like a nitro powered sewing machine :grinpimp:
 
Ditto on the Trooper being a sleeper. I sold my '88 with 145K. I got rid of it for my LX because I wanted 3rd row. The Trooper is still running like a champ for the new owner though. The build quality is right up there with an 80, really. And one of the stoutest IFS's ever. I've heard only good things about the newer models as well.
 
Ditto on the Trooper being a sleeper. I sold my '88 with 145K. I got rid of it for my LX because I wanted 3rd row. The Trooper is still running like a champ for the new owner though. The build quality is right up there with an 80, really. And one of the stoutest IFS's ever. I've heard only good things about the newer models as well.


Not too sure about the new ones.... the 3.5's can be problematic

but the old ones are awesome... trying to find a cheap one for a beater DD (part time wheeler while the 80 is under the knife)
 
Dang it!!!
Never should have read this thread.
Now I want to trade her '06 Odyssey in for a 100!!!

Why would you trade a big minivan for a small one?

:flipoff2:
 
I pull my 4250# boat all over with my 80, no problems. No bullit up hills but it will easily maintain 60 over the pass.

The real advantage to the 80 is it's ease of maintenence, you can touch the oil pan from under the hood. The obdII sensor will tell you if there is a problem and you can see and touch the component that needs the attention. I have a buddy that needed to replace the starter contacts in his V8 Toyota, it was about $1500, almost all labor. You could do an 80 in an hour. I may buy 100 one day but I will never get rid of the 80.

You have the only 80 in the world that can back your towing claim.

Ease of maintenance on the 80...have you replaced you PHH or the P/S pump to cooler line. How much is it to replace a HG on a 80?

Over the years I have owned several of both and presently own both, but if I had to pick only one it would be a 2003+ 100 series.
 
oro-o,

i'm glad to hear you were able to keep the Audi! I grew up driving multiple Audi 4000 CS quattros (both regular and special build) and I can appreaciate your V8!

all the best with your new towing machine, it sounds like a great pick. and it will probably "dress up" very nicely from the looks of the body and the underlying chassis.

all the best,

Brian
 

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