So I contacted TRS about a REAL group buy for projectors, lets get it going!

[SHAGGY101]

Hey guys, sorry, I have been on leave this past week and haven been near a computer. I will be ordering tomorrow or the next (get paid tomorrow!).

Also, I noticed some talk about the 55W kit melting the projector. Is this really a concern? I was planning on ordering the 55W kit with a 5k bulb because of the greater light output. What do you guys think?

 

[2000UZJ]

Hey guys, sorry, I have been on leave this past week and haven been near a computer. I will be ordering tomorrow or the next (get paid tomorrow!).

Also, I noticed some talk about the 55W kit melting the projector. Is this really a concern? I was planning on ordering the 55W kit with a 5k bulb because of the greater light output. What do you guys think?

35W with the Mini's is going to produce a lot of light. More than my 55W in stock housing (which I hate). I would not take the risk for a little more light. The mini's are very small and the 55W kit produces a massive ammount of heat.

My 55W DDM kit produced 297*F after 30 minutes of running at the base. I wouldn't put my current bulbs in the projectors. I got the full stage III kit, I'm broke now, but I don't want to have any issues in 3 months forcing me to open my headlights up and re-do it. Let alone mess-up a irreversible mod to the headlights.

 

[FullyLitLED]

1. Petrotk40
2. Whirlybird9
3. Domin8r
4. Staggrlee
5. Bamabrock
6. Blue by you
7. Jackknife
8. Squirrel
9. Troutcruiser
10. Jonharis
11. Taco forum user*
12. Lj_24
13. 2000uzj
14. T4r forum user
15. wngrog
16. unknown user
17. unknown user
18. unknown user
19.
20.
21.
22.
23.
24.
25.

I will contact TRS again tomorrow to see how many we have

 

[jonharis]

Hey guys, sorry, I have been on leave this past week and haven been near a computer. I will be ordering tomorrow or the next (get paid tomorrow!).

Also, I noticed some talk about the 55W kit melting the projector. Is this really a concern? I was planning on ordering the 55W kit with a 5k bulb because of the greater light output. What do you guys think?

35W with the Mini's is going to produce a lot of light. More than my 55W in stock housing (which I hate). I would not take the risk for a little more light. The mini's are very small and the 55W kit produces a massive ammount of heat.



My 55W DDM kit produced 297*F after 30 minutes of running at the base. I wouldn't put my current bulbs in the projectors. I got the full stage III kit, I'm broke now, but I don't want to have any issues in 3 months forcing me to open my headlights up and re-do it. Let alone mess-up a irreversible mod to the headlights.

FYI, The TRS website has removed the 50W (never was a 55W from TRS) from their Kit, possibly because of the reasons you guys described. Best to keep everything at the cooler running, lower draw 35W Kit. It's still gonna be hella bright.

 

[FullyLitLED]

Did a retrofit on my friend's 2006 xterra! Getting more practice before I do my own retrofit! Lol

Decided to get an additional H1 projector with Gatling gun 2.0 shrouds! So I will get the depo 06-look-a-like lights and have 4 projectors in there!

Adding more pics here as soon as photobucket uploads them!

 

[FullyLitLED]

I am trying to gain more experience on retrofitting lol so when it comes time to do my hundy, I will be better!

Small writeup on the retrofit I did today! 2006 Nissan Xterra

Some info on the projector retrofit
Projector: Morimoto mini H1 bi-xenon projector
HID: 6000k 35w H1 kit
Projector shrouds: Newly released MC-R shroud from TRS. 18SMD LED strip to light up the holes in the shroud, used as a DRL

So first begin by taking apart the bumper. Open the fenderliner and remove the two bolts holding the bumper to the frame. Remove the headlights abd grille

Now open up the headlights and fit your projector and shroud together. Dremel as needed

Using the LED strips, mount them behind the MCR shroud's mounting ring. TRS puts out great retrofit products!

Since I sell LED dome lights and other map panels, I decided to create an adapter out of some spare t10 dome light adapters to use on the LED strips. This way, the LED strip mounted behind the shroud can act in the same manner as the original park light/DRL

Adapter showing

Adapter hidden, looks factory

Seal the headlights up using RTV silicon after reheating the oem glue and reusing the oem headlight glue. THIS IS STRONG ADHESIVE!

Mount and hide the HID ballasts while waiting for the headlights to dry. Cut the H4 to 9006 Harness. Since this is a bixenon projector, you can cut the high beam portion of the HID bulb(which is halogen). DO NOT CUT THE LOW BEAM WIRES

Mount them up and test all the components. Make sure to check check and recheck! Now appreciate all the hardwork you put in!

only the DRL's lit up!

These are pictures of the new projector setup with the 6000k HID bulbs lit up

 

[stevopike]

order complete

also I called them and now they have the XB35 5000 as an option for the full kit

 

[domin8r]

There we go, let's get the rest of those orders in today!

 

[2000UZJ]

order complete

also I called them and now they have the XB35 5000 as an option for the full kit

I just changed my order to the XB35's. $70 if I change my mind after the instal and 25 bucks to do it now...


They have around 17 orders, and they are not shipping until they have 25. FYI

 

[FullyLitLED]

just called them! we need 8 more people!

 

[2000UZJ]

one at a time LJ...


There is no drilling on the 100's headlights, the 9006 adapter plate will do it all. Just remove stock bulb and slide in projector, after you bake the headlights for 225*F for 7-8 minutes. If that gives anybody some comfort in completing there order.

 

[petrotk40]

I think I'm going to try a heat gun instead of baking. Thoughts?

 

[domin8r]

that's what I'll be doing, first heat gun and that doesn't work I'll do the oven.

 

[2000UZJ]

I don't think you will be able to get constant temp all the way around. You will have to pry it and risk cracking the glass. Baking is the best way according to 99.9% of the retro builds I read. The TRS forums have excellent tips.

Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD

 

[FullyLitLED]

I don't think you will be able to get constant temp all the way around. You will have to pry it and risk cracking the glass. Baking is the best way according to 99.9% of the retro builds I read. The TRS forums have excellent tips.

Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD

Yes, baking is better!

 

[wngrog]

1. Petrotk40
2. Whirlybird9
3. Domin8r
4. Staggrlee
5. Bamabrock
6. Blue by you
7. Jackknife
8. Squirrel
9. Troutcruiser
10. Jonharis
11. Taco forum user*
12. Lj_24
13. 2000uzj
14. T4r forum user
15.wngrog
16.
17.
18.
19.
20.
21.
22.
23.
24.
25.

I will contact TRS again tomorrow to see how many we have

 

[staggrlee]

I ordered 50W ballasts and 35W 4.3k bulbs. No problem and won't affect the warranty according to Retrofit.

FYI there are no 50W H1s despite what you can find on eBay according Retrofit. The glass needs to be thicker and that causes fitment problems in H1 housings. They're working on it...

And then I found this comparo on HIDPlanet using 35W and 50W ballasts with the same bulbs in the Minis. I'm sold on the 50W upgrade based on this alone:

35w vs. 50w Ballast Comparison using Mini H1 and RX330

 

[FullyLitLED]

Current list as of now:

1. Petrotk40
2. Whirlybird9
3. Domin8r
4. Staggrlee
5. Bamabrock
6. Blue by you
7. Jackknife
8. Squirrel
9. Troutcruiser
10. Jonharis
11. Taco forum user*
12. Lj_24
13. 2000uzj
14. T4r forum user
15. wngrog
16. unknown user
17. unknown user
18. unknown user
19.
20.
21.
22.
23.
24.
25.


If you guys use the code pls make sure to add your name to the list!

 

[pman]

Since I sell LED dome lights and other map panels, I decided to create an adapter out of some spare t10 dome light adapters to use on the LED strips. This way, the LED strip mounted behind the shroud can act in the same manner as the original park light/DRL

Please tell me you are going to do a better job making the connections on your 100.

 

[2000UZJ]

Mini's at work. Single Projector in use on wall.