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If you care to drive to West U, I could loan you mine. It works with an iPhone.I have one that works for android but I don't have one for my iphone and there's no way to get one here today before I leave.
If you care to drive to West U, I could loan you mine. It works with an iPhone.
Hey Mark, forgive the stupid question, but why do you leave the obd cable plugged in? Why not just plug a regular non-switched cable in (and power it up) when you need it?
Do you have a link or picture of the switched cable? I still do not fully grasp the power drain issue and why people would need to leave dongles or cables plugged in.
Thanks!
Yes! Thanks for the detailed explanation. That makes a lot of sense! I have yet to take my 200 to any high altitude trails, but I can see I will need to be ready for this before I do.For those who get frequent evap codes…it can be a daily occurrance, and its a pain to crawl under the dash. But…leaving power-hungry readers plugged in leads to non-use electrical power drain. I route the extension and reader wire out of the way…so its a non-factor while driving to leave it plugged in…but switched off.
Why? Because most obd2 readers do not have power switches & rely on power available by the obd2 plug itself. Problem is… That power is delivered 24/7 IF something is plugged in that can utilize it. This means leaving a code reader plugged in for convenience has the potential to seriously impact your battery if left sitting.
Think of the power aspect of the under-dash obd2 plug as a power outlet in your house. -When nothing is connected, no power is delivered through it…but when you plug in a device capable of using its available power, it delivers whether you need it or not.
Evap codes can be a daily occurrence once you start getting them…especially in areas that boil fuel (Utah, Colorado at altitude and heat). … and an obd2 code reset is THE remedy that is used to clear dash light warnings (which also can trigger the inability to, for example, shift into 4-Lo). So it behooves drivers to have an easy way to clear codes without delay. BUT… leaving the reader attached directly means ot os consuming power, even when the truck is off. -This is also true for most bluetooth-based obd2 dongles, that must communicate with a phone, etc.
Its convenient to NOT have to crawl under the dash just to clear these annoying, frequent codes…but leaving the reader plugged in 24/7 means battery drain.
So instead….I solve the power drain issue of leaving a reader attached, I add an extension cable into the under-dash plug…that I keep my plug my reader cable into. This extension cable has an on/off switch that, when off, means the power circuit available via the plug wires is disconnected, resulting in zero of draw…while I still have everything plugged in 24/7.
So…
-When I need to quickly clear a code…I flip the in-line extension cable switch to ON…which powers the code reader.
-I then check/clear evap codes…
-Then I simply flip the extension cable’s switch off again, which cuts power to the reader.
-I can perform this even while driving if I fail to notice the dash indicator upon entry.
In this way, I never have to crawl under the dash, and a real annoyance is reduced to a 10-15 second remedy.
Make sense now?
Yes! Thanks for the detailed explanation. That makes a lot of sense! I have yet to take my 200 to any high altitude trails, but I can see I will need to be ready for this before I do.
As an alternative will disconnecting the battery clear it?
Yes. The factory toolkit should have the proper wrench to do it. Had to disconnect the battery once when on a multi-day off-trip in Death Valley and was stuck in 4LO because of an emissions CEL.
Just this last trip, the OBD-II reader helped me confirm a failing alternator.
Never leaving home again without a proper OBD-II reader.
I’ve got plenty of tools, just didn’t know if that would reset it? If so, how long do I need to leave it disconnected?
A minute should do but maybe 3 min to be sure.
So on our way to Durango today I filled up in Cuba, NM. 94F and 7,000 ft at speeds of 70mph and boom the trouble code hits, engine light, warning screen screaming at me. Pull over, smell of fuel vapors present and I say $hit! I lost cruise control which is absolutely retarded for such an issue and the code hasn’t cleared itself nor will the center screen stop flashing the “see dealer” warning.
I do not have a code reader or tech stream so if anyone is local to the alpine loop/San Juan’s or planning to be in the area this week and you’re willing to meet up please let me know. As an alternative will disconnecting the battery clear it? I don’t really want to pay the dealer in Durango to clear it out for $150+ only to have it happen again this week while we remain at altitude. Pretty ridiculous that these trucks suffer from this lol.
Pretty ridiculous that these trucks suffer from this lol.
Do no other vehicles deal with this in similar conditions? I believe part of it is our fuel tanks being tucked up inside the frame rails to help off-road ability, which would reduce our heat shedding from the tank. Plus many other manufacturers moved to returnless fuel systems long ago specifically to help with evaporative emissions.To be quite frank, every time this happens to me I start to wonder if I should sell the LC. But then when everything is fine it's such an awesome vehicle that I change my mind. Such a love / hate relationship, and because of just the one little thing.
The thing that baffles me the most is that this seems like an engineering problem that no other manufacturer tends to have, and Toyota has made no apparent effort to fix it over multiple LC generations. Apparently it's not worth overengineering this one item on an otherwise super-overengineered vehicle???
Yes, I think you're exactly right on both points about the tucked tank and returnless fuel system. I am very optimistic that we can fix this problem (or at least make it less frequent and less severe) by cooling the return fuel before it dumps back in the tank.Do no other vehicles deal with this in similar conditions? I believe part of it is our fuel tanks being tucked up inside the frame rails to help off-road ability, which would reduce our heat shedding from the tank. Plus many other manufacturers moved to returnless fuel systems long ago specifically to help with evaporative emissions.