Smart Alternator regulators

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ntsqd said:
No room for a second Alt, I'd fill it with a York if there was. Camper batteries were mentioned because they're present in the circuit when the BEP Marine VSR closes, but aren't really relevant to this thread. (Solar parts are here, but not yet fully installed. 100W panel, Sunsaver Duo controller, Tri-Metric monitor.)

If the OE alt can be converted to external regulation simply and easily, then reverting it back in the field would be equally easy should the external fail. Of concern is how well the OE alt would work and live with an external regulator.
The starting batteries were nearly $500, I'll need to more than double their lifespan to justify the whole marine charging program. Not sure that will happen, but if I can nearly double their lifespan with something in the $300 range like the Next Step2 regulator then it starts to make sense. The Hitachi (?) alt on my 12 Valve looks a lot like one of the Balmar illustrations. I need to talk to my local Alternator guy about internal to external conversions. If it were the 90A Bosch Alt slated to go on my '65 Slant 6 the conversion would be dead simple, two screws accessible from the rear of the alt.
Click to expand...

On the topic of converting an internally regulated alt to use an external regulator, one thing I like about the B/A 120A in my 62 is that the regulator is held in place by ring terminals for the appropriate leads. Something like this seems like it would make conversion much easier, as opposed to the soldered leads of the stock Toyota 80A (this is all referring to the 62 series BTW).
 
Not sure how this might help anyone here, but it turns out that the Denso alt's used on 12valve Cummins engines have their voltage regulator in the PCM. In other words those alternators are already externally regulated. Just had a look at mine and it does have two small studs on the back with wires connected to them.

Apparently these regulators are prone to failure and to stay stock requires a whole new or rebuilt PCM, which needs/should be programmed to the truck's VIN & mileage ($$$). Below is the suggested wiring diagram to use the earlier Chrysler external voltage regulator (<$20).

http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/pics/data/500/17307regulator2.jpg

Why am I posting all of this? The OE 120Amp alternator looks like this (note the black block with the two studs in it):


Which I suspect makes it a possibility for a swap onto a 2F or 3FE? I don't have one any more and haven't for quite a while, so I can't go look at at it to see. That is vaguely what I recall it looking like. I think that an alt. rated stock at 120A would be a significant improvement over anything in a 60 series and maybe even in an 80 series. BTW, Rock Auto lists the CTD replacement alt currently at between $90 and $120 depending on brand, etc.

My route fwd on the CTD is to budget for an NS2 regulator, but hopefully what I've dug up will help someone else with a stock engine looking for more alternator capacity. The CS-130 on the FJ60's TPI engine is going to take a little more thinking and research...


EDIT: Re-reading Spork's post above has me really interested in seeing a pic of the alternator that he has. I'm wondering if it is the CTD alt or not.

EDIT II: Looks like specifying the alt for a '98 instead of my '96 CTD will get you a 136A alternator that very possibly is a bolt-on replacement. I'm not going to change mine for only 16A, but if a guy is starting from scratch.....
 
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Here's what the stock 3FE 80A alternator looks like:
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The B/A 120A is obviously the same mounting, but the housing is more rounded, much like the Chrysler you posted. Matter of fact if the mountings for the Chrysler alt were similar I'd almost think B/A used a Chrysler housing for mine.
getimage.php
 
For Odyssey AGM, you want the regulator to be able to do 14.7 v absorption cycle and 13.7 for maintenance. You might want to check out Xantrex. It's really popular with RV / marine crowd to get the most out of your alternator. Since the stock charging system is set for regular lead acid and probably not the 14.7V / 13.7V spec by the manufacturer. http://www.xantrex.com/documents/Ac...regulator/Alternator Regulator (xxx_RevB).pdf

I got the 20A OMAX charger from Odyssey for my Diehard Platinum Group 65. I've been topping off my battery once a week. I'm at about 95% if I don't get on the highways and closer to 97% if I do hit the highways. So it doesn't take long. But if I was camping or not driving each day it would be good to have like a battery minder / trickle charger from what I have read.
http://www.odysseybattery.com/chargers.html
 
Xantrex is right near where my folks live it looks like. Maybe next time I have the 62 over there I'll make time to check them out and see if they think a commuter/offroader would be a good application for their regulator.
 
Re-reading the Next Step 2's manual (http://www.amplepower.com/manuals/ns2/index.html) I see that it is adjustable for both float and absorption voltages. What I don't see is what the range of adjustment is. Google "shopping" the Xantrex is about the same price as the NS2.
I've read that some or all of the Xantrex product went offshore, which even though the company has a good rep it makes me a bit cautious about considering any of their products.
 
ill apologise now because i didnt read this whole thread, but i doubt these were mentioned so ill mention them.

r/c battery chargers. they charge frikkin every thing, theyre amazing.

the graupner ones are very clever, i have one, but am looking at ones that can be used when the car is running, my current one only goes up to 14v, and has not got 110/220v built in, the ones im looking at now do have it built in.

the graupners also, are very German, which instills a lot of confidence. charging batteries can be a dodgy affair, the graupner is so damn clever i never worry about it.

sorry if its off topic, probably it is

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ripmax-Si...sGames_RadioControlled_JN&hash=item337e94811d
 
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