Builds Slowest Build Thread ever - 1992 FJ80 "Golgo13" (1 Viewer)

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I don't recall having any clunk issues at all. Not even clicking from the birfs, but they definitely have play. My plan was to replace the bronze bushings and keep the current spindles. (@~$225 each, it seems excessive to replace something which hasn't outright failed.)

Definitely will replace the axle flanges. Tomorrow I'll post up some pictures from the tear down and cleaning. Then the grooves in the birfs will be visible to all and you can also see the damage of the splines in the axle flange.

Also, yeah, any rust will be removed. I'm not putting rust back on after putting all this work into it...


I'm sorry, I meant the drive flanges, not the spindles. Don't know what I was thinking. I didn't do mine when I rebuilt the birfs and now wish I had. Easy enough to fix, but still should have done it while I had it all opened up.
 
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THATH A LOT OF RUTHT!

I came from NW Iowa and I thought WE had a lot of rust to deal with! Unbelievable!

While I am a fan of Powder coating, is goes on thin and if not done properly, it can get ugly quick. That said, I like epoxy because it goes on thick, can handle rock chips, and it will bond well. In the epoxy case, I HIGHLY recommend having any painted surfaces sand/media blasted to a near-white finish (SSPC-SP10) in order to get the epoxy to bond the best, but they MUST be painted within "x" hours of blasting in order to prevent rust bloom under the paint.

I installed the RCV axles in mine from Slee. I'm not a crawler, and am 95% highway / city use with a little mud and backwoods. So far (5K miles) I have no complaints. I have heard that these are the old Longfields, however, I think those are the TREATED version (shiny, not "black" like I have.

Do you have holes in the floor of the truck also? If not, how will you prevent that from being the next thing? Blast and coat?

Good luck!

There is 1 small hole in the floor by the driver seat floor. very small. I'll get that fixed at some point.
I am also 95% highway and a tiny bit of off-road. I also won't be driving it in the winter.

As for the PC, I've been going back and forth. I'm leaning heavier towards the epoxy for the same reason. My axle housing, springs and bumper are all getting phosphated and e-coated I can't wait to get them back! I'm thinking about getting this stuff all treated similar with exception to the spindles.

That is a +1 for RCV. I need to find time to call RCV and Nitro and ask about their manufacturing process. I'm also going to see if someone can translate the drawing I have for the OE parts to see if there is anything about heat treating. I know something is done, but not exactly what or how.
 
Scottryana installed the hardened version of the RCVs and he felt he needed a discussion with Christo Slee about them. Check Ryan's thread.
 
Finally started putting stuff back ON instead of taking it off. Rear axle assy courtesy of @arcteryx .
New paint on the arms. Pics of brake lines coming this weekend when I clamp them down.
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I have the whole front end out and am rebuilding it. The oil pan gasket is questionable. Should I just replace it while I'm there and nothing else is in the way?
 
I would. Especially if it's easy to get to. Why not?

What did you end up doing to get your rear shock out? Did you make-a-welder with batteries or did something else work?
 
Yes
 
Hey guys, thanks for the tips! I forgot about the acetone/ATF mix. I have been using PB Blaster anywhere I can. Most of the time it doesn't seem to matter.
What about the bolts where you can reach the nut end because it is in the frame or tucked away real nice? For instance, this little SOB that holds the shock in place? I striped the head with a bolt remover...View attachment 885460

Drive it down to Toledo. I have the tools if you have the beer.
You need to heat these with a torch then hit with PB then air gun turned down. Keep repeating till they come free or break off. I can show ya and you can chk out my fleet.
 
@mechanist
To get the rear shocks out I started by carefully cutting off the rusted/protruding parts of the upper support bolts. I used a small hacksaw and could access the bolts through the space between the body and frame. Then I soaked them with WD40 Rust Penetrant spray and about 15 minutes later they came right out. One of them broke before I tried the penetrant, so I drilled it out and went from there. The support plates were rusted to the shocks and I didn't have a grinder, so I bought new parts.

@Hornd
I'll have to get down there someday. It really doesn't take long and I'd like to see the fleet!


Anything else I should try to do before the front goes back in? I'm thinking the fuel filter should be changed before it becomes NLA.
 
It is extremely easy to get to the fuel filter and lots of other stuff right now.
There is nothing under the front of the truck except the jack stands.
 
Got my axle shafts back... grooves? what grooves?
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Springs and shocks installed. New flexible lines for the rear.
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I just love the title of your thread. I feel like my build is the slowest ever too. Looking good!
 
Thanks! Things have been dragging along, but it's all coming together now!
 
Damn... I remember seeing that sexy axle like 2 years ago! :hmm: bolt that sucka on!
 
I've got the front 3rd member at Drive Train Specialists in Warren, MI for rebuilding. Once that comes back, I can put it all together.
 
I've been thinking about going in a new direction for drivetrain... I happened to notice that the torque and power specs of the 3F-E are just a hair less than the new Mirai Fuel-Cell Vehicle.
I'm joking, of course, but half serious. That would be a cool/fun upgrade to make. Finding parts would be hella expensive though.
 
I was in Japan earlier this summer and was struck by how many hybrid medium duty commercial trucks there were. Not prolific by any means, but a significant number. It also got me thinking about donor drivetrains...:hmm:
 

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