Slip Indicator issue while on highway (3 Viewers)

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Also don't forget to check the front bearings for any free play. May need to jack up the front slightly for this.

However it's super easy to look under the front as she moves the steering wheel while parked but with engine running.

You may need to remove the front skid though. I can't remember.

Hope you figure it out,

It is very alarming when it happens and the ABS engaging and the way the rig bucks and yaws the way it does.
 
I have a 2004 Sienna that does exactly the same thing. Traction control comes on with gradual right turn, sometimes hits the brakes while going 60-65 on the freeway, comes on when going right around curves. About 30% of the time the brakes are applied and throw us forward and pulls car to the right. Rest of the time, just the traction control light and beeping happens. Getting worse over the last year. Have taken car in to Toyota dealer 5 times. First time they adjusted sensors, next time they replaced sensors, spent over $1000. Have suggested 3 more areas to repair to the cost of $5000. Blue book value is less than that.

Steering also feels a bit sloppy lately and car seems to drift a bit over lines when we are on the freeway.

Toyota will not guarantee that anything they do will fix the issue and "we still have to pay for it"!

Can you tell me what you repaired that solved the problem? Should I try to repair it or just give up and trade it in. We don't have any skills in car repair so will all have to be done professionally.
 
I have a 2004 Sienna that does exactly the same thing. Traction control comes on with gradual right turn, sometimes hits the brakes while going 60-65 on the freeway, comes on when going right around curves. About 30% of the time the brakes are applied and throw us forward and pulls car to the right. Rest of the time, just the traction control light and beeping happens. Getting worse over the last year. Have taken car in to Toyota dealer 5 times. First time they adjusted sensors, next time they replaced sensors, spent over $1000. Have suggested 3 more areas to repair to the cost of $5000. Blue book value is less than that.

Steering also feels a bit sloppy lately and car seems to drift a bit over lines when we are on the freeway.

Toyota will not guarantee that anything they do will fix the issue and "we still have to pay for it"!

Can you tell me what you repaired that solved the problem? Should I try to repair it or just give up and trade it in. We don't have any skills in car repair so will all have to be done professionally.
Well Kristy, I think you might be stretching it here on a Land Cruiser forum to get advice on the Sienna...but maybe someone here has one that can help. I'm not sure what they are suggesting to repair in those 3 areas, but make sure you read all of the post on this thread and a couple others by searching on the forum, to make sure you've crossed off all possibilities.

Sadly, if you aren't able to do the work yourself and can't afford to take it to a mechanic any more I would seriously think about throwing in the towel. But before you did that make sure you get a second...and maybe even a third.

As for my experience on my Land Cruiser, it had everything to do with the steering rack bushings. I won't go into why it happened, as that's been explained in prior post on this thread, but I would certainly make sure that was checked...it doesn't have to be too warn to cause big headaches.

Sorry I can't help more, I know how frustrating this type of decision can be.

Good luck on your decision!
 
The dealer will continue to hose you until you say you've had enough. That's their job. Service writers don't know cars. The mechanics are the lowest of the low (to check out 10 year old suspension complaints) and are only there to make a check.
Find a local import place that may have good reviews on google or some other review website and ask them to check the steering rack bushings and steering rack as a whole. Afterward, make your decision to dump/trade on costs for new v old. Unless labor is free it might be time. Especially if you need to take a hub down and redo.
One of the first things to happen with a faulty wheel speed sensor (short, frayed wire, or malfunction) is the cruise control will automatically shut off on cars from this era. (generally)
 
It can be a number of issues that cause the slip control to kick in. I have an 01 Lexus GS 300 that had the issue - turned out the rear tone rings had been ground down from rust on the metal shield that protected the rear seal where the axle goes through the hub. at certain speeds the rear ABS signal would be lost setting off the slip control and activating the brakes.

On my wife's 08 lexus IS250 I recently had the same issue - tire dealer had installed the narrower front tires on the rear, not realizing there were different sized front to rear - set off the slip control on mountain roads until it was corrected.

The system is very sensitive to tire size, bearing wear, steering looseness, etc. The above suggestions are all good ones to start with.
 
My money is that the rack is either moving due to bushings that are bad or it's worn enough to have some slop if that makes sense.

Sorry you have spent so much already without a resolution, that stinks. :(
 
Thanks so much for the answers. I talked to the dealer about what they wanted to fix. He said they would start with the lower control arm bushings, then the steering rack and shaft. The cost: $4300. Then they could try other areas if that did not work. I made an appointment with a local mechanic that has good reviews and a friend has used them at a gas station. We will see what he decides can be done.
 
Hi all! I am also dealing with the slip indicator brakes applying issue on paved highways in curves. I’ve put about 1,000 miles on the truck and this has happened a few times always while going up a steep grade on a curve, dry pavement. Stock 2000 LC with 175k miles. Camelback Toyota has replaced all 4 wheel bearings and installed new cv boots. They checked steering rack, ball joints, etc and everything else up front and have done an alignment and the issue persists. I’m not getting much from the dealer because there aren’t any error codes. They reached out to Toyota and came up with nothing which is super annoying since this isn’t an isolated issue. Anyway I was just trying to kick start these old threads and see how people’s rigs have faired the last few years and hopefully get some advice as it seems the steering rack bushings is the consensus fix. I’m not sure how much more $ I can handle dumping into this truck.
 
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Just wanted to confirm that spirited driving can set off the VSC light (flashing and beeping but not kicking the ABS system in, i.e. the truck just letting you know you are taking a turn too fast right)? Over the past few months I have started driving in a more spirited style and figured I need to tone it down a bit. I have been noticing body roll/braking dip along with the VSC light getting angry with me around some turns. Figured I would ask here before going under the car this weekend to inspect everything.
 
@awesomeissquid what year model is your LC? I think this is just normal esp when you drive in a spirited manner. On turns, the outer front tires on fast-in exits rotate more than the inner tires, computer senses it and traction control computes it. Happens to my 06 all the time when I drive it like I’m on 2 wheels.
 
@awesomeissquid what year model is your LC? I think this is just normal esp when you drive in a spirited manner. On turns, the outer front tires on fast-in exits rotate more than the inner tires, computer senses it and traction control computes it. Happens to my 06 all the time when I drive it like I’m on 2 wheels.
Thanks, I figured it was. I have a 2000LC.
 
Just wanted to confirm that spirited driving can set off the VSC light (flashing and beeping but not kicking the ABS system in, i.e. the truck just letting you know you are taking a turn too fast right)? Over the past few months I have started driving in a more spirited style and figured I need to tone it down a bit. I have been noticing body roll/braking dip along with the VSC light getting angry with me around some turns. Figured I would ask here before going under the car this weekend to inspect everything.

Just wanted to chime in here that from my very own personal experience PLEASE get under your front end and remove the front "skid" plate and look at your steering rack bushings please.

My 2000LC was doing this and one day while on the freeway it decided to alert BUT this time it activated the ABS on the right front wheel and then the left rear. Scared the absolute poop out of me! It was at over 60MPH and a rolling left hand turn on a four lane freeway if that helps you visualize it. Not even a turn but just a meandering gentle left ark in the freeway.

Turns out a small oil leak at the oil cooling housing (large o-ring) where the filter threads on was ever so slowly deteriorating the smaller two bushings that are in the drivers side of the steering rack. It was kind of free-playing and the VSC thought there were some abrupt maneuvers going on when in fact there was not.

Just a thought.

Carry on!
 
Just wanted to chime in here that from my very own personal experience PLEASE get under your front end and remove the front "skid" plate and look at your steering rack bushings please.

My 2000LC was doing this and one day while on the freeway it decided to alert BUT this time it activated the ABS on the right front wheel and then the left rear. Scared the absolute poop out of me! It was at over 60MPH and a rolling left hand turn on a four lane freeway if that helps you visualize it. Not even a turn but just a meandering gentle left ark in the freeway.

Turns out a small oil leak at the oil cooling housing (large o-ring) where the filter threads on was ever so slowly deteriorating the smaller two bushings that are in the drivers side of the steering rack. It was kind of free-playing and the VSC thought there were some abrupt maneuvers going on when in fact there was not.

Just a thought.

Carry on!
Really appreciate the concern! That was actually a known issue with the truck when I bought it and it occurred to me on the ~500 mile drive home. I then spent the next few months mostly refreshing the front end (control arm bushings, ball joints, outer TREs, wheel bearings, Low pressure PS hoses, and adding poly steering rack bushings). Between the wheel bearings being super loose and the steering rack bushings being disintegrated from a power steering leak the ABS activation went away. That said, I probably still should drop the under cover to check the inner TREs and to make sure everything else is still tight.
 
Really appreciate the concern! That was actually a known issue with the truck when I bought it and it occurred to me on the ~500 mile drive home. I then spent the next few months mostly refreshing the front end (control arm bushings, ball joints, outer TREs, wheel bearings, Low pressure PS hoses, and adding poly steering rack bushings). Between the wheel bearings being super loose and the steering rack bushings being disintegrated from a power steering leak the ABS activation went away. That said, I probably still should drop the under cover to check the inner TREs and to make sure everything else is still tight.

Nice job on taking care of that stuff.

Also once it's good and solid it might not hurt to perform a Zero Point Calibration. Either by hand or with TechStream if you have that.
 
Nice job on taking care of that stuff.

Also once it's good and solid it might not hurt to perform a Zero Point Calibration. Either by hand or with TechStream if you have that.
Thanks! I did the zero point when I did the first alignment after all that original work.

I am just now realizing I did not perform that again when I recently replaced the rear springs and bumped up the front t-bars a few turns. I know that changed the geometry a bit so probably a good idea to perform it again.
 
My '05 has done the downhill left-hand-turn VSC-ABS chatter FR braking dance about four times now- the last time almost pulled me off the road.

Speed has been between 30-45 mph. So far it seems to happen only on two downhill left turns that are on my normal route. Definitely try to slow to under 30 mph when I remember. It has not occurred on any other of my mountain road curves so far.

This could be normal for these trucks based upon the downhill nature of each of the curves. Based on this thread my rack bushings are going bad, or there is slop in one of my joints or bearings that I have not detected using my manual shake test. All feels tight on the front end but perhaps I am not push-pulling hard enough to detect.

I have not crowbar lifted the Ball joints yet- or roped my wife or a friend into turning the wheel to check for steering rack movement. I had pulled off the wheels to check pad and rotor wear when I was baselining the truck- but I did not think to pull the ABS speed sensors to check them out. I have no codes.

I noticed most of the trucks in this thread were pre-'03 and this phenomenon was often tied to worn-out steering rack bushings. I have not seen any post '03 trucks mentioning worn SR bushings as the culprit. Are the post '03 bushings not as prone to wearing out or is this because I have not found a thread that mentions replacing later SR bushings?

My rack is weeping enough to have a slow drip so I have a new rack on the shelf ready to go in if or when my back gets better, but I was wondering if there are replaceable bushings for later racks. AT-205 has not slowed the weeping so far.

I performed a zero-point calibration a number of times with no change in the downhill left-turn excitement.
 
My '05 has done the downhill left-hand-turn VSC-ABS chatter FR braking dance about four times now- the last time almost pulled me off the road.

Speed has been between 30-45 mph. So far it seems to happen only on two downhill left turns that are on my normal route. Definitely try to slow to under 30 mph when I remember. It has not occurred on any other of my mountain road curves so far.

This could be normal for these trucks based upon the downhill nature of each of the curves. Based on this thread my rack bushings are going bad, or there is slop in one of my joints or bearings that I have not detected using my manual shake test. All feels tight on the front end but perhaps I am not push-pulling hard enough to detect.

I have not crowbar lifted the Ball joints yet- or roped my wife or a friend into turning the wheel to check for steering rack movement. I had pulled off the wheels to check pad and rotor wear when I was baselining the truck- but I did not think to pull the ABS speed sensors to check them out. I have no codes.

I noticed most of the trucks in this thread were pre-'03 and this phenomenon was often tied to worn-out steering rack bushings. I have not seen any post '03 trucks mentioning worn SR bushings as the culprit. Are the post '03 bushings not as prone to wearing out or is this because I have not found a thread that mentions replacing later SR bushings?

My rack is weeping enough to have a slow drip so I have a new rack on the shelf ready to go in if or when my back gets better, but I was wondering if there are replaceable bushings for later racks. AT-205 has not slowed the weeping so far.

I performed a zero-point calibration a number of times with no change in the downhill left-turn excitement.
If the 05 is pretty new to you or you have not been through the wheel bearing yet I would recommend checking those. It seems most shops do not know how to properly set these rigs and the wheel bearing setup is pretty critical.
 
If the 05 is pretty new to you or you have not been through the wheel bearing yet I would recommend checking those. It seems most shops do not know how to properly set these rigs and the wheel bearing setup is pretty critical.

That is next on my list- The Lexus service record showed that they were repacked at the dealer about two years ago so I felt they should be good until I got to them in the next month or so.

I had ordered new hub flanges, gaskets, and locking washers to do the job but they had not come when I pulled the wheels to check the pads and rotors. I now have all of the parts but the weather is now rainy and in the 30's --and my back does not like getting up and down off the floor. My body is 71 but my mind says that I can still work out in the cold and rain as I did in my 40's. Trying not to be stupid since the backend cost is so high these days.

Next warm day I will pull the wheels and the flanges to check the pre-load with a spring scale I bought years back to check motorcycle headstock bearing preload.

You could be very right about the wrong pre-load based upon some threads I read about how some dealers do not have good mechanics.
 
The rack question is indeed slightly interesting as there was a design change in the power steering rack in 2003 IIRC, I noticed the parts offerings for polyurethane bushings from 98-02 are different from the 03-07.
 

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