Slip Indicator issue while on highway (2 Viewers)

[MarkTR]

The rack question is indeed slightly interesting as there was a design change in the power steering rack in 2003 IIRC, I noticed the parts offerings for polyurethane bushings from 98-02 are different from the 03-07.

I just found a few videos which show the change out of poly bushings on the newer two-bushing racks. They are still horizontally split so a change out is possible withe the rack still in the truck using a kit like this. spf2987k | Steering Rack Bushings | 98-07 Landcruiser 100 - https://www.suspension.com/spf2987k.

I am not able to change out my rack at the moment- but being anal I was hoping if it was not as big of a job I could change out the bushings if they are the problem with my left-hand turn issue. Laying on my back for one hour beats many hours of doing so.

If I had a local wrench I would trust I would just have the new rack I have on the shelf installed so my steering rack weepage/leak and bushing slop would be solved at the same time.


edit------Google is your friend-- found this thread via Google rather than our search engine. 04+ Steering Rack Bushing Replacement - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/04-steering-rack-bushing-replacement.874556/

 

[Greenbean]

It’s possible to do it yourself yes, I did mine myself, the passenger side was the easiest of course and the driver side takes a little bit of finesse and I used a long bolt that looks like a piece of threaded rod to basically pull the other half of the driver side bushings in the place.

 

[2001LC]

I just found a few videos which show the change out of poly bushings on the newer two-bushing racks. They are still horizontally split so a change out is possible withe the rack still in the truck using a kit like this. spf2987k | Steering Rack Bushings | 98-07 Landcruiser 100 - https://www.suspension.com/spf2987k.

I am not able to change out my rack at the moment- but being anal I was hoping if it was not as big of a job I could change out the bushings if they are the problem with my left-hand turn issue. Laying on my back for one hour beats many hours of doing so.

If I had a local wrench I would trust I would just have the new rack I have on the shelf installed so my steering rack weepage/leak and bushing slop would be solved at the same time.


edit------Google is your friend-- found this thread via Google rather than our search engine. 04+ Steering Rack Bushing Replacement - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/04-steering-rack-bushing-replacement.874556/

I'd not replace the mounting bushing on the Rack & Pinion, if weeping from output shafts (boots). It will be a waste of time, as R&P needs replacing. With new R&P you get the best mounting bushing IMHO, OEM. Since Toyota also includes the inner TRE with R&P, it's a sweet deal!

It is common to have multiple issue out of spec, which contributed to setting off VSC. So best to do all the test before work begins. i.e wheel bearings, TRE, ball joints, control arm bushings, shocks, AHC bouncy.

I find:
#1 cause is loose wheel bearing
#2 R&P mounting bushings shot.
#3 AHC issue (bouncy).


Tips:

When replacing R&P: Flush all ATF from power steering system first, clean inside of reservoir. Replace weeping hoses like suction, return and even high pressure line if they are weeping. Also the idle up control vacuum lines if ends cracking and loose fitting.

Nice touch to replace outer TRE with new R&P. Using OEM TRE is very best.

 

[MarkTR]

I'd not replace the mounting bushing on the Rack & Pinion, if weeping from output shafts (boots). It will be a waste of time, as R&P needs replacing. With new R&P you get the best mounting bushing IMHO, OEM. Since Toyota also includes the inner TRE with R&P, it's a sweet deal!

It is common to have multiple issue out of spec, which contributed to setting off VSC. So best to do all the test before work begins. i.e wheel bearings, TRE, ball joints, control arm bushings, shocks, AHC bouncy.

I find:
#1 cause is loose wheel bearing
#2 R&P mounting bushings shot.
#3 AHC issue (bouncy).


Tips:

When replacing R&P: Flush all ATF from power steering system first, clean inside of reservoir. Replace weeping hoses like suction, return and even high pressure line if they are weeping. Also the idle up control vacuum lines if ends cracking and loose fitting.

Nice touch to replace outer TRE with new R&P. Using OEM TRE is very best.

LC- we are on the same page. I only thought that if my big issue was shot bushings, and they were quick and easy to replace, then I could do it in my current back condition then perform the complete R&P trade out when my back got better. It looks like the bushing may take more time than is worth it compared to a complete change out of the R&P.

I have on the shelf a new Lexus R&P, a new set of factory rubber hoses, reservoir, and TRE's. The only thing that is holding me back--is my back and lying on the concrete floor for hours.

I have not checked the vacuum lines yet-- good advice.

I will be setting the wheel bearing preload once I get the various size C clips I have ordered-assuming that with 190K on my original CVs that I may need a different thickness than the ones currently installed.

 

[RECRUISER]

My traction light illuminating just about every day occasionally with the audible beep, beep, beep. Even tried to brake one wheel by itself occasionally while driving.

I Read this thread and realized two of my tires were new with lots of tread (rear axle), and the other two were near replacement tread level (front tires). I put more air in the front tires (the ones that had less tread), they were 30 pounds and inflated them to 36 to match the rear. Problem has NOT reoccurred since. (Two weeks have gone by and still no traction light warnings)!

Maybe the combination of the difference in tread wear on each axle AND the lower tire pressure on the front (30 psi to 36psi) occasionally triggered the Traction Control? Time will tell, I was going to replace the lower tread front tires before winter anyway and have an appointment to get that done this afternoon just to have good rubber for winter, but even without new tires, the problem has not reoccured.

Difference in how fast wheels were turning although very small difference granted (more tread vs little tread and less tire pressure vs more pressure) confused the little computer feller every once in a while?

All good here.
Thanks everyone for this thread.

 

[RECRUISER]

One more detail here.
I bought two new tires like I had previously shared. The very next day after I put those new tires on, I had an occurrence of the traction control flashing. I went home and checked the tire pressure and they were both on 28 PSI. I filled them to 36 PSI and have not had a single reoccurrence of this problem since, which is now a full week. So I am suspecting the LOW tire pressure as being the culprit in my case, instead of the differences in tread wear. Hope this helps someone down the road!
Thanks everyone for this forum, it is worth its weight in gold.

 

[2001LC]

Low tire pressure at 28PSI frt (which 29psi is factory spec, since 2000) will not cause issue, but it can be additive. The front ends suspension needs looked at as a whole system. Each component effects anther! If tire pressure corrected, by going from 28 to 36 PSI. You've other issues for sure.