Slider install tips

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Sverige

Sverige

10 Year
Joined
Sep 20, 2011
Threads
61
Messages
571
Location
Northern Virginia
I am planning to install some OPOR sliders next week, wondering if there are any tips for moving the lines that run along the inside of the frame? Did you pull them from the clips, install the u-bolts, then manage to get them back into the clips? Was it necessary to remove the plastic skid plate cover thing to get the u-bolted lined up?
Any other advice?
Thanks-
 
I put some rubber tubing between the metal lines and the u-bolts so that they would not wear through.
 
Call me if you need a hand. Are they IPOR sliders? If so, get them to weld them on. If not, lets bolt those bad boys on.
 
Thanks, they are Outpost Offroad, through MetalTech.
Yukon, what are you doing next Wednesday after work?
I have jack stands and tools, would love a hand!
 
I was planning on helping another 100 guy in town put some sliders on, but i can change that if need be.:bounce: PM me. I am good to go. The wife is out for town for 2 weeks.
 
Jack stands are your most valuable tool for slider install. Even with friends, it gets old holding the heavy sliders in place while getting the u-bolts started.

Yes you need to snap the break lines out of the plastic clips to get the u-bolts around the chassis. I did not worry about getting them back into the clips since you only pop out maybe one or two on both sides.

Did not have to completely remove the plastic belly pan, instead only remove the most rear outer bolt.
 
If you have a motorcycle jack, use that. It's very easy to install using this jack and one person. I also use the jack to install the skids.
 
I managed to put my WKOR sliders on in about 30 minutes. Just bent lines out of the way and then back again. You want to make sure the line is not touching the u-bolt (or anything for that matter) or it can wear through. I was able to get them all clipped in and clear of everything without feeling like I put any undue stress on the lines.
 
Make sure you pressure wash the undercarriage thoroughly beforehand... Trust me, you'll thank me later. ;)
 
Sliders are a :banana: job... Easy... Wear some safety glasses to keep dirt out of your eyes... Jack stands are helpful too and another person is always helpful to position them while you bolt them up... FWIW I did mine alone with jackstands...
 
I initially had my MetalTech sliders at tight to the body as I could - just snugged the up/level and tightened them down. But they made noise! This was body-to-slider contact - at the front. I dropped them down about 1/4" and they're quiet now. Just pay attention to how close those flanges are to the underside of the body.

Side note: I was surprised how the sliders stiffened the ride. Makes sense though - the sliders essentially reinforce the frame.
 
The WK sliders installation instructions said to leave 3/4 of an inch between the rocker panel and slider. I think this would apply to the frame mounting points and body as well. Still need to readjust mine.

I had recently repainted the frame before installing the sliders, so for some reason I thought it'd be a good idea to wax the frame where the sliders would touch it. I used Nu-Polish. Seems fine. I also used it on the sliders themselves to help make them easier to clean.
 
Or a square cooler turned on it's side. That is what I used to hold up one end of the bior step sliders I installed. They are 90 lbs each.
 
you still want help? i can do sunday, or any day after work next week till Thursday.

As far as torque, on my WKORs, i cranked as hard as i could. I have ad a lot of weight on them, and have high lifted from them many times. No problems at all.
 
Yukon LX said:
you still want help? i can do sunday, or any day after work next week till Thursday.

As far as torque, on my WKORs, i cranked as hard as i could. I have ad a lot of weight on them, and have high lifted from them many times. No problems at all.
Click to expand...


Yes, that would be great!
You available Wednesday after work?
I am in Oregon until Tuesday...
 
Sverige said:
Anyone have a recommended torque setting? Is there a point with the u-bolts that is too tight?
Click to expand...

The grade 8 U-bolts are strong, and the custom plated 2x taller "high" nuts included with them have 2x the thread contact on the u-bolt. The larger thread contact gives you more power as you torque them on. 54 foot pounds is the book setting for them.

Enjoy the new gear!

Mark
 
See you Wednesday!
 
It's easy with just a floor jack if you have to do it by yourself (like I did).
- Set it on a 2 x 4 lengthwise and locate it on the 2 x 4 where it balances (in and out). Use wooden wedges between the slider tube or legs and 2 x 4 to adjust angle of the mounting brackets so they are exactly vertical. Tie the 2 x 4 to the slider in that position tightly with thin rope (place the knots on the outside, not on the inside like I did - easier to get off).
- Find the exact fore and aft balance point by settng the slider and 2 x 4 assembly on a piece of wood dowel and rolling the assembly back and forth until the slider balances. Mark that point (note the pencil mark near the center of the 2 x 4 in the first pic.). Now if you have a dolly you can move it into position (see first pic.) or just manhandle it if you need to.
- Once in position lift up the ends one at a time and block it high enough so you can get your jack under it.
- Place the jack exactly at that balance point and jack away.
Slowely jockey it back and forth and in and out until you have it where you want it, jack it up into place, and hook up the u-bolts. Adjust up and down for the right clearance to the rocker panels and floor pan and tighten her up.
Remove tie ropes.
Done.
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How did you get the u bolt on nearest to the MUFFLER??

Sent from my mudPhone using IH8apple
 
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