Here's some photo evidence. This is Carl's rig (Just Differentials) running 2866 rear coils (the 1.5" coils) and OME torsion bars (his shocks and UCA's are different but that doesn't affect the "lift" height). These are 33" tires.
SLEE SUSPENSION KIT - 1.5" or 2.5"?
- Thread starter Reckless
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There is probably some miss communication. Two issues are at play. An LX470 has a suspension where the height is controlled by the AHC and how it is set. We have seen quite a bit of variation in how stock trucks come into the shop. So any pre and post lift measurements is kinda irrelevant to compare from truck to truck. It is only relevant on the specific truck we are working on and what the customers expectation is.
Secondly, since the front torsion bars are adjustable you can not really compare anything since you are free to set it up any way you like. So post measurement can be anything as long as you don't over lift it.
For the rear, the OME2865 typically give about 1.5" of lift over a stock Land Cruiser lift, but again on LX470's we have seen as much as 1" difference between stock trucks. So again trying to explain on the phone were exactly it is going to sit based on a stock LX is difficult. In certain cases we have seen it to sit where the truck was when it came into the shop at N setting, others not.
I have spoken to the sales staff and we will try to be more clear when we explain it.
What is easier to do is that if you give us your current center of hub to flare measurement we can tell you what we get in the back compared to that.
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- #25
Currently, my vehicle is stuck in hi position in rear. I have two issues with going taller than stock:
1.) Will it negatively affect high speed performance as I regularly do 80-90 mph on highway? The car is a brick on wheels and is very tippy if not careful. I know the setup is going to improve body roll.
2.) Aesthetically will it look terrible with stock 16" wheels/tires? There was already a large gap, I think PO removed fender liners.
I dream about offroading my LX but hardly have any time and scared of getting stuck. The potholes, alleys and streets in Chicago are my offroad jungle. Some places are worse than the real thing.
1.) Will it negatively affect high speed performance as I regularly do 80-90 mph on highway? The car is a brick on wheels and is very tippy if not careful. I know the setup is going to improve body roll.
2.) Aesthetically will it look terrible with stock 16" wheels/tires? There was already a large gap, I think PO removed fender liners.
I dream about offroading my LX but hardly have any time and scared of getting stuck. The potholes, alleys and streets in Chicago are my offroad jungle. Some places are worse than the real thing.
If you are driving those speeds I would not consider the higher lift. Also seems there is no other reason for you to do so. The 1.5" should be fine if the vehicle is aligned properly. I would not set the vehicle up level in your case. I would keep the nose as low as possible to ensure good alignment results.
As far as looks, that is entirely up to how you would like it to look.
As far as looks, that is entirely up to how you would like it to look.
Failing AHC is a perfect reason for a suspension "upgrade." When I bought our LX, the AHC was toast and it rolled like a 1980's Cadillac in the corners. Because its my wifes DD, I went with the 1.5" OME. After install, the ride and cornering were 100x better. With a proper alignment (diff drop probably a good idea too) and well balanced tires, it will comfortably cruise at 90mph when driving across NV. Like Christo said, you definitely want the front about 0.5-1" lower than the rear for better handling, but that is easy to dial in with torsion bars...It will look funny with the stock tires, but the stock wheels will like fine with once you put some thicker rubber on.
For those on the fence between the 1.5" and 2.5" kit, go with the 1.5" and if you want more lift in the future (or add bumpers, tire carrier, etc), all you have to do is crank up the torsion bars and swap out the coils in the back.
Yes and no. It is not the front to back difference, but the total front lift. The lower the front, the easier it will be to get proper alignment angles with using adjustable upper control arms. You could set it up level, but then I would suggest the upper arms.
So with the adjustable UCAs, you can run a 2.5" lift and dial it in to be level front/back but still have good on road handling? I always thought a slight "rake" was needed but that makes sense if this was to limit lift up front when running the stock control arms.
Here's some photo evidence. This is Carl's rig (Just Differentials) running 2866 rear coils (the 1.5" coils) and OME torsion bars (his shocks and UCA's are different but that doesn't affect the "lift" height). These are 33" tires.
What brand sliders are those?
Give me a week or two - just ordered the 1.5" Slee springs (say Hi to Jennifer from ACC Christo) - and I'll post a couple pics. My 100 has 275/70/18s
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Here's some photo evidence. This is Carl's rig (Just Differentials) running 2866 rear coils (the 1.5" coils) and OME torsion bars (his shocks and UCA's are different but that doesn't affect the "lift" height). These are 33" tires.
Who makes a 285/70/18? that was the size I wanted for my 100 but couldn't find any tires in that size. I think it was like 33.5" x 11.5" tire.
I said 275/70/18s... really. I swear I didn't go back and edit my post either... Okay, good catch.
Normally with 2.5" lift in the rear you can not get it level since that will push the front beyond the lift heights we set them at to have proper down travel.
That makes a lot more sense. The 275/70/18 tire is very common. That is roughly a 33.1" x 10.9"
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Hi Christo that looks like what I'm looking for too with my 1.5" lift on my LX470 after remove the AHC. A 1.5" lift with nose lower to provide good alignment results and allow high speed driving sounds good with somewhat improved light off road performance. I'll call you Monday or Tuesday to schedule.
Thanks!
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- #37
So, I got the kit installed today minus the front torsion bars and the ride is ridiculously stiff. My back is killing me and I only drove 5 miles to work. My car is currently slanted with front alot lower than rear. I don't know if installing the torsion bars is going to make a big difference.
Can anyone chime in? Why is my back killing me?
Can anyone chime in? Why is my back killing me?
When I spoke with the guys at Slee I was told that the only way to get the on-road ride many of us like with the of-road performance was to step up to the reservoir shocks. These guys have forgotten more about suspensions than I'll ever know so I'm going to believe them and pony up for some Slee or Radflo reservoir shocks when I do my lift to ensure that my on-road performance doesn't suffer.
AHC bars are approx 25mm in diameter, non AHC OEM are approx 30mm in diameter which equates to 43% greater csa. Without the hydraulics your AHC TBs are underrated. Can't help with the sore back.