Slee Sliders install

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Jebbud

SILVER Star
Joined
Jan 9, 2010
Threads
14
Messages
156
Location
Utah
Can someone tell me what they used to remove this bolt from the front hydraulic line to install the front of the sliders. The instructions say there are four bolts to remove but I only see one. the space is too tight to get a socket up there. What am I missing?
 
Thanks @TonyP. The box end I was using wasn't working. I couldn't get any leverage. Might have to try and find a different one
 
Yep, box end side of wrench (flat and not angled like the closed end), I couldn't use the closed end because of the slight angle my wrench has. I did all the work to the right side of the bolt.

I sold my slee sliders to @Reckless, Hussain, did your installer mention any different technique for that bolt?
 
You are not the only one on a Thursday evening, staring at that bolt..... Managed to get it lose with a very small socket (right side of creeper - one on left was too big.), but then decided to come back to it tomorrow. Once the bolt is lose, I'm not sure I will be able to move the KDSS lines out of the way far enough to drill and rivetnut the top two holes. Were you planning on undoing the entire KDSS line including the bolt on the inside the fender? (next bolt along the KDSS line... to the right when looking at your picture. )
Thanks,


sliders.JPG
 
After going back and having another look, I don't plan on putting rivetnuts and bolts along the top of each leg. I therefore don't need to undo the bolt you pictured. The kit came with eight rivetnuts per side. I have a 2014 so there are 4 in the bottom of the frame (facing down), two at the bottom of each leg. The front middle has the large hex bolt, and the top of the back legs are held on by re-purposing the KDSS and brake line attachments. I did have to gently pry the KDSS line away from the frame in order to slide in the rear leg. I don't plan on hanging off of rocks. I just need to be reminded I hit something, without doing major damage. I assume a rivetnut for every hole would have been provided, if required. I'll post if I run into any other issues. Highly likely I'm going to need another drill bit.....

Does anyone bother with sealing/painting the rivetnut holes to prevent future rust? Is one drain hole at the bottom the boxed frame enough to drain water? (provided it does not get clogged up? -- There appears to be numerous other holes to air out the inside of the frame. )
 
After going back and having another look, I don't plan on putting rivetnuts and bolts along the top of each leg. I therefore don't need to undo the bolt you pictured. The kit came with eight rivetnuts per side. I have a 2014 so there are 4 in the bottom of the frame (facing down), two at the bottom of each leg. The front middle has the large hex bolt, and the top of the back legs are held on by re-purposing the KDSS and brake line attachments. I did have to gently pry the KDSS line away from the frame in order to slide in the rear leg. I don't plan on hanging off of rocks. I just need to be reminded I hit something, without doing major damage. I assume a rivetnut for every hole would have been provided, if required. I'll post if I run into any other issues. Highly likely I'm going to need another drill bit.....

Does anyone bother with sealing/painting the rivetnut holes to prevent future rust? Is one drain hole at the bottom the boxed frame enough to drain water? (provided it does not get clogged up? -- There appears to be numerous other holes to air out the inside of the frame. )

Any time you create holes or newly-bared bare metal, I definitely apply something--especially where water can become trapped. -Even just some rattle-can rustoleum paint would help a lot.
 
LPS 3 Rust inhibitor. Apply to any nut and bolt you just removed. I sprayed my KDSS vlv unit and cover bolts 2 years ago and still has a wax coating and no rust. It will not migrate either.

I gave a bunch of links and more in the KDSS frozen page. This stuff works for what its name says. I don't sell this stuff, I just have used it for a long time.
 
Sorry, my installer didn't mention anything to me other how heavy the sliders were. He said it was a pretty simple install, nothing to it if I remember correctly. Same mechanic installed my tundra iforce motor in my 100 with little complaint (I ordered the wrong 4.7l block.
 
Thanks for all the help. Finally got them installed. For me, a small ratchet was the trick to removing the bolt. Also, I think I saw in another thread about buying two drill bits. I recommend that too.
 

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