I installed a Slee Short Bus bumper on my '96 FZJ80 today, and figured while I had the time, I'd take some pictures and spell this out for anyone who may be considering an install. This is my first write-up on a tech article (except for my wiring short story a few months back), so have patience.
Solo Wrench - as I was on my own for this one - but still rates 'Easy' on the hard work and difficulty meter, and working alone and taking pictures I finished this in about 3 hours. Adding friends would shave about an hour or more if you're trying to beat my qualifying time.
Cuss-Factor of 'Zero' (*and I spent some time on the USS Tripoli - LPH10!), , as everything is straight forward and well-built to fit as designed.
Here was my starting point;
The Slee Short Bus (SB) bumper comes well-protected with both foam sheet and heavy plastic bag inside of a cardboard box. I dragged this home from Overland Expo in the back of my Mazda6s Hatch minus the cardboard, so while a bit unwieldy, it's not very bulky to transport. Included were the full hardware set containing the upgraded fasteners, but no instruction sheet - but installation is so simple, you don't really need them except for the torque specs.
Tools you will want to have available include the following;
* Hammer!
* Multi-driver for tightening the fairing fittings and such
* 14mm Box-End for removal of the stock bumper
* (optional) bristle brush for cleaning off 15+ years of grime/dust/bugs
* 17mm Socket for stock recover point removal
* 19mm Socket for installation of Slee hardware
* (not shown) 19mm Box-End for installation of Slee hardware
* (not shown) Torque wrench to fit 19mm and 17mm sockets to install Slee hardware
* (not shown) Wheaties and milk
After removal of the stock bumper, I decided to do some general cleaning and make sure everything was tightened up, brushed out the A/C evaporator and Trans Cooler of years of dead bugs, and used a sheet of cardboard as a mask while I sprayed a quick coat of black to cover up the now-visible front end components which the stock bumper hid nicely and the Slee SB exposes;
In the photo above, you can see that the stock shipping tie-downs are still attached, and they need to come off to install the SB. You could probably bolt through them and keep them, but after considering this for a bit, I decided to leave them off, as the Slee designed recovery points are plenty for the kind of driving I tend to do.
The SB bumper weighed in at 92.8lbs, and I was able to muscle it into position (*twice, including the weigh in) through my novice 'power-lifter' stance and a breakfast of Wheaties. Slee advertises this at "slightly less than 90lbs", and it probably varies a bit due to welds, material weight, etc. Compared to the stock bumper, this thing is hell-for-stout, for only about 3x the weight.
Slee-provided fasteners are good quality bolts matching the factory bolt points and thread pitch - no nuts are needed throughout, making for a very straightforward installation. The bolts shown here are roughly in position per side, as I like to lay them out, ensuring all the parts are there and in order before I start bolting things together. It sucks to find out that bolt you just spent 30 minutes turning in 1/16 turn increments is missing it's lockwasher!
(*the collection of bolts/washers at the top are for the front license plate frame, which I didn't need and were added to the spares box)
I sprayed each bolt down liberally with a penetrating lubricant along with the threaded frame points, and it all went together easily.
Keep reading Part 2, below if you're still interested and want my impressions after installation...
Solo Wrench - as I was on my own for this one - but still rates 'Easy' on the hard work and difficulty meter, and working alone and taking pictures I finished this in about 3 hours. Adding friends would shave about an hour or more if you're trying to beat my qualifying time.
Cuss-Factor of 'Zero' (*and I spent some time on the USS Tripoli - LPH10!), , as everything is straight forward and well-built to fit as designed.
Here was my starting point;

The Slee Short Bus (SB) bumper comes well-protected with both foam sheet and heavy plastic bag inside of a cardboard box. I dragged this home from Overland Expo in the back of my Mazda6s Hatch minus the cardboard, so while a bit unwieldy, it's not very bulky to transport. Included were the full hardware set containing the upgraded fasteners, but no instruction sheet - but installation is so simple, you don't really need them except for the torque specs.
Tools you will want to have available include the following;

* Hammer!
* Multi-driver for tightening the fairing fittings and such
* 14mm Box-End for removal of the stock bumper
* (optional) bristle brush for cleaning off 15+ years of grime/dust/bugs
* 17mm Socket for stock recover point removal
* 19mm Socket for installation of Slee hardware
* (not shown) 19mm Box-End for installation of Slee hardware
* (not shown) Torque wrench to fit 19mm and 17mm sockets to install Slee hardware
* (not shown) Wheaties and milk
After removal of the stock bumper, I decided to do some general cleaning and make sure everything was tightened up, brushed out the A/C evaporator and Trans Cooler of years of dead bugs, and used a sheet of cardboard as a mask while I sprayed a quick coat of black to cover up the now-visible front end components which the stock bumper hid nicely and the Slee SB exposes;

In the photo above, you can see that the stock shipping tie-downs are still attached, and they need to come off to install the SB. You could probably bolt through them and keep them, but after considering this for a bit, I decided to leave them off, as the Slee designed recovery points are plenty for the kind of driving I tend to do.
The SB bumper weighed in at 92.8lbs, and I was able to muscle it into position (*twice, including the weigh in) through my novice 'power-lifter' stance and a breakfast of Wheaties. Slee advertises this at "slightly less than 90lbs", and it probably varies a bit due to welds, material weight, etc. Compared to the stock bumper, this thing is hell-for-stout, for only about 3x the weight.
Slee-provided fasteners are good quality bolts matching the factory bolt points and thread pitch - no nuts are needed throughout, making for a very straightforward installation. The bolts shown here are roughly in position per side, as I like to lay them out, ensuring all the parts are there and in order before I start bolting things together. It sucks to find out that bolt you just spent 30 minutes turning in 1/16 turn increments is missing it's lockwasher!

(*the collection of bolts/washers at the top are for the front license plate frame, which I didn't need and were added to the spares box)
I sprayed each bolt down liberally with a penetrating lubricant along with the threaded frame points, and it all went together easily.
Keep reading Part 2, below if you're still interested and want my impressions after installation...
Last edited: