Slee medium 2.5 lift and 35s

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girraffe

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Hey everyone. I searched a few hours the other night but only came up with a few things. What I'm still trying to figure out is, will 315/75r16 tires fit well if I lift my truck with the Slee medium 2.5 with diff drop and UCA kit?
Found out that 315/75r16 tires will rub unless the steering stops are adjusted. Can anyone include some links are confirm they will fit? I'm running unloaded. No heavy bumpers etc

Thanks!
 
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Are you going to wheel this Cruiser? If you are using stock wheels then 315s will fit fine with spacers and will not rub.
 
I have this setup but with 295/75-16's and at full lock i get an occasional 'rub' sound for a second at certain articulation. It's nothing serious, but I'm not running spacers. 1 thing you should know is your cruiser will be A LOT slower with the big monster tires on there. I noticed quite a change after the lift and tires.
 
A lot slower? That's subjective.
 
Here is a good link in regards to 315's

35" tyres on landcrusier

If you are not going to do really hard wheeling you should be fine. A body lift would help a little to help prevent fender/body rub on both front/rear respectively.

Also you can lower your front bump stops on the front and rear to help rubbage. As well as what was mentioned above, adjust turn stops.

Lowering front bump stops can be achieved by adding a couple fender washers under the bump stop (Pretty easy, unscrew bump stop and add washers)
Lowering rear bump stops would require at least .5-1 inch box metal cut/drill to fit underneath.

This also depends on what type/brand/model. Each will vary. Some are larger than others from what I read. This is just a starting point of fitting 315's.

As for the lift, if you are not adding any weight on the hundy as for bumpers/armor/ect....

-You can just get away with cranking up the torsion bars (wouldn't really upgrade the torsion bars unless you have some weight on the front as for bumpers),
-adding a slee/BIOR/DIY diff drop (Finally finished the Diff Drop today or Custom Front Differential Drop - John Shotts (shottscruisers),
-and adding a 1 or 2 inch spacer in the rear to match the front lift or a 865 OME rear spring (2-2.5 inches unloaded).

I wouldn't lift the front past a 21.5 inch hub to fender measurement (regardless of tire, that is where a body lift would make it look higher/lifted if that is what you are trying to acheive).

YOU ARE LIMITED WITH THE IFS ON HOW MUCH YOU CAN LIFT THESE in regards to front suspension.

You need at least a 2.5 inch droop to be able to run safely and may develop caster issues (that's where you can run the aftermarket UCA' like Slee - SPC Upper Arms - Details to control the caster setting)

Total droop is ~23.75 inches.
*Front Lift measurement Limit hub to fender* 20.5-21 inches safely without caster UCA's and can go as far as 21.25-22.25 inches with aftermarket UCA's (yes $500 for an extra inch. LOL)

Hope this helps a little.............
 
Although I can only speak first hand for 295/75R16's, there are threads to be found that discuss the real fact of rubbing with 315's. If you wheel it, they will rub.
Taller coils and cranked torsion bars don't change tire fit. Spacers, body lifts, and bump stops do.
 
Hayes said:
Although I can only speak first hand for 295/75R16's, there are threads to be found that discuss the real fact of rubbing with 315's. If you wheel it, they will rub.
Taller coils and cranked torsion bars don't change tire fit. Spacers, body lifts, and bump stops do.
Click to expand...

I think this is a bit mis-leading. In mostly static wheel travel coils and TBars can accommodate taller tires. When you start flexing the suspension is when you can get into issues but I have wheeled with 315 KM2s with wheel spacers and be fine.
 
Ok. Thank you all! So I'm going to try the Slee 2.5 medium with diff drop and UCA kit. I'll try the bump stop spacers and adjusting the steering limits before going with spacers.
 
duggy said:
A lot slower? That's subjective.
Click to expand...
Actually Maxse01 is correct. Larger diameter tires equate to "loss of Power". Without out going too much into it, the larger the diameter tire the "taller" your Gear ratio will be. The resulting effect is that you will feel the engine doesn't have enough power to get you moving down the road. This is due to the fact that the radius/lever arm of the taller tire increases your moving force. This results in slower acceleration and a fast crawl speed. To counter this you must change your ring and pinion gears to a lower ratio to compensate for the larger tire. I call this the Domino Effect of four wheeling. Change something and it will have a resulting effect on another component. i.e. Suspension geometry, tires, gear ratios etc. I stuck with 33's on my 100 for that reason. I may go to 4:88's some day to run 35's but for now I'm staying on the "mild" side :)
 
I understand that larger tires can make the Cruiser feel slower but going from stock tires to 33s isn't THAT bad with the 100 series V8 and 4.30 gears.
 
Duggy your exactly right about the 33" upgrade. The reply was in reference to original statement about the 35" inch question. Going to 35'' tire would necessitate a gear change in my book. 35''s would bog down performance to an unacceptable level for most people. :)
 
I meant 35s. It's been a wild week at work.
 
RickFJ80 said:
Actually Maxse01 is correct. Larger diameter tires equate to "loss of Power". Without out going too much into it, the larger the diameter tire the "taller" your Gear ratio will be. The resulting effect is that you will feel the engine doesn't have enough power to get you moving down the road. This is due to the fact that the radius/lever arm of the taller tire increases your moving force. This results in slower acceleration and a fast crawl speed. To counter this you must change your ring and pinion gears to a lower ratio to compensate for the larger tire. I call this the Domino Effect of four wheeling. Change something and it will have a resulting effect on another component. i.e. Suspension geometry, tires, gear ratios etc. I stuck with 33's on my 100 for that reason. I may go to 4:88's some day to run 35's but for now I'm staying on the "mild" side :)
Click to expand...

Exactly! Well said, and thank you.

I'm not saying the truck is slow, just that it's not nearly as 'quick' as the wifes stock 100. Mine also grabs 4th on hills above 70mph where before it could stay in 5th.
 
I have 34's on mine with a very moderate lift......OME 866's and factory rake. 860's would give you plenty lift for 1" more tire and you can crank the front to match.

I would not want anything bigger on mine. These tires have me on the edge of "Bogged down" as @duggy said.

When these are gone I will drop back to 285's
 
wngrog said:
I have 34's on mine with a very moderate lift......OME 866's and factory rake. 860's would give you plenty lift for 1" more tire and you can crank the front to match.

I would not want anything bigger on mine. These tires have me on the edge of "Bogged down" as @duggy said.

When these are gone I will drop back to 285's
Click to expand...
Tanks for that info ! I've been considering all those things too. I'll check out variations of what I'm putting on this 100 build. Sadly my FJ80 was sold a number of years ago. I still see it around the area where I live. Stupid, stupid, for selling that thing ! ;)
 
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