Slee LX Slider Notes (1 Viewer)

[sleeoffroad]

Rivnut notes
- 17/32 drill bit, this is an oddball size that I'd be surprised if anyone has in their garage. I winged it and drilled to 1/2" with a stepped bit. Then use a drill sandpaper cartridge roll and hogged it out the extra mm. Really want to make sure the rivnut installs tight.

FWIW, there is actually a step drill that does work for rivet nuts. We have looked to supply this bit but can't pinpoint a wholesaler for it. Also not sure on the quality vs. the quality of the bit we currently sell.

Amazon product ASIN B01JBJLK4K

 

[TeCKis300]

That would be awesome as stepped bits work well to drill the frame. Larger diameter standard bits may jump around without enough material to keep the tip centered. I'd imagine even a lower quality stepped bit would still go through the frame like butter.

 

[radman]

I can confirm the butteryness of these bits on the frame. HF sells a similar pack with skinnier steps than the one shown here:

 

[sleeoffroad]

I think the difference is the Rivet Nut step bit is sized to match various rivet nut requirements. The other might have some corresponding sizes, but you would have to figure out what size matches the appropriate rivet nut OD.

 

[FerrisBueller]

Is there any recommended corrosion protection for the bare metal in the drilled hole? I assume anything oily should be avoided, to keep the rivnuts from spinning when tightening or loosening the bolts?

 

[tbisaacs]

Is there any recommended corrosion protection for the bare metal in the drilled hole? I assume anything oily should be avoided, to keep the rivnuts from spinning when tightening or loosening the bolts?

shoot some spray paint any time you drill and leave bare metal behind

 

[DJCloz]

@sleeoffroad when do you foresee more of these LX sliders being available?

 

[TeCKis300]

Happy with how lighting is turning out. I didn't buy the Slee lighting option as I had different goals. The Slee kit is seemingly more a underglow than step lights as the stock LX had. I wanted a clear yet subtle step light, with indirect lighting. I was able to achieve that with two low profile light elements just under the stock rocker. There is just the right amount of gap to let out a soft ambient light centered above each step. Tied into the stock lighting circuit which maintains the nice fade in a fade out feature.

Amazon product ASIN B017XFF9IM
Of course I have requisite rock lights too and installed those separately underneath the slider, controlled by SwitchPros.

 

[TeCKis300]

Where the slidersteps tie into the transmission cross member, Slee uses a standard hex bolt, lock washer, washer combination. It's a low point and hangs down further than I like, which could be a potential snag point. I opted for some allen button head bolts (1/2 in-13 X 1-1/4 in) to reduce the profile. Also used blue loctite in place of the lock washer.

Amazon product ASIN B07D5S32GF

 

[tincan45]

Geez. With 35's and AHC, you can camp out under there.

I'm a little jealous.

 

[TeCKis300]

Geez. With 35's and AHC, you can camp out under there.

I'm a little jealous.

Funny cause I just changed my oil today. There's elbow room galore to maneuver without any jacking.

 

[TeCKis300]

LX Factory Step Cut

I attempted to do something different here instead of the typical straight cut, at least on the forward part. As both ends flare out and catch light, I figured I'd leave just a bit more profile so it doesn't look like a cut, rather a subtle design cue. Also wanted to keep the factory mud flaps. I think I was successful at maintaining some semblance of a factory aesthetic by following the curve down a bit. It is tricky to get it just right.

Basically follow the curve about 1/4" off the bend. I used a oscillating multi tool for the coarse cut, then used a drill mounted 1.5" sanding drum.

 

[use2bn83]

Where the slidersteps tie into the transmission cross member, Slee uses a standard hex bolt, lock washer, washer combination. It's a low point and hangs down further than I like, which could be a potential snag point. I opted for some allen button head bolts (1/2 in-13 X 1-1/4 in) to reduce the profile. Also used blue loctite in place of the lock washer.

Amazon product ASIN B07D5S32GF
View attachment 2461889

looking great! just for reference, we've been slowly going away from button head allens (or flat heads) where they could get whacked hard. The reason being that is can destroy the Allen hole and make it incredibly difficult to service. with a standard hex, generally you can get something on it no matter how buggered it is. Totally get the hang-up point though, been there. cheers!

 

[dubyahard]

For those that have installed the Slee Sliders on an LX, what is the general time allotment needed for a complete install?

Do the existing steps need to come completely off or can they just be trimmed while on the truck then remove the brackets?

Other than acquiring a 17/32" drill bit and rivnut tools, is there anything that can be done pre-install?

 

[tbisaacs]

Removing the steps is so easy it's not worth the hassle keeping them on IMO. I did my install in a day, but took the whole day. I ended up tweaking on day two but it was just loosening the mounts and jacking up to adjust.

Pre-install I would take of the steps and the AHC armor.

 

[TeCKis300]

For those that have installed the Slee Sliders on an LX, what is the general time allotment needed for a complete install?

Do the existing steps need to come completely off or can they just be trimmed while on the truck then remove the brackets?

Other than acquiring a 17/32" drill bit and rivnut tools, is there anything that can be done pre-install?

I would budget a 1-1.5 days. Not that it's really that involved but takes some time to organized all the parts and plan each step, particularly the cut. Also planning and reinstall courtesy lighting which took some detail work.

I left the steps on and cut them while on the car. Preferred this approach as I could eye and test fit the mud flaps (if you so choose to keep them).

I did it without the specific drill bit and devised a DIY rivnut too (see youtube). But of course easier with those on hand.

 

[dubyahard]

Thanks. I'm trying to knock these out in about 8 hours not including wiring the courtesy lights. I can adjust as needed but it needs to be drivable after the 8-ish hours. I like the idea of keeping the steps on when cutting them, but once they are cut, how does the "rocker" piece stay on the truck? I assume the brackets that are coming off hold the actual step part.

 

[TeCKis300]

No problemo knocking them out in 8hrs. The car is never really undrivable if you choose to break up the install perhaps one side at a time, or after cutting the factory steps.

The cosmetic cut part of the rocker stays on fine as it's clipped in. It's just no longer structural without it's step portion/brackets.

 

[grinchy]

Thanks. I'm trying to knock these out in about 8 hours not including wiring the courtesy lights. I can adjust as needed but it needs to be drivable after the 8-ish hours. I like the idea of keeping the steps on when cutting them, but once they are cut, how does the "rocker" piece stay on the truck? I assume the brackets that are coming off hold the actual step part.

the rocker fits via clips and some sticky tape. The 'step' also has brackets that bolt under the vehicle. You could just chop the rocker low and outside front and back then remove the step, brackets, unhook the light wire, and you're good to go. Then trim the rocker after slider install to your cosmetic preference.

 

[grinchy]

LX570 Running Board Removal

So I found a source for the tlc rocker trim for $200 each. That means if my hackin on the running boards fails I have a not cheap, but not heartbreaking expensive fix available. So I ordered this and am taking the sawzall to them this weekend. The current plan is the disassemble as much as...

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