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slave cylinder, master or clutch?

Discussion in '60-Series Wagons' started by aznavigators, Feb 28, 2007.

  1. aznavigators

    aznavigators

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    I just took my 60 to the dealer b/c it is having a hard time shifting into gear. They recommended replacing the clutch master, slave, throw out bearing and the clutch (for the low price of $2000) They said that there is rust in the line etc. I replaced the slave and flushed out all of the rust in the line. It's still having a tough time going into gear. I bought the slave from the dealer. I noticed afterward in my Toyota manual that it recommends putting grease on the cylider. I didn't do that. Is this perhaps why it's still having trouble? Is greasing that essential? Or is it perhaps that the master cylinder needs replaced also. I don't understand how it would be the clutch needing replaced b/c of rust in the master/slave line, b/c that fluid doesn't come in contact with the clutch. Any help would be appreciated! I'd rather not drop 2 grand.
     
  2. browndog

    browndog

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    is it hard to shift in all gears? Did you make sure to bleed all of the air out of the clutch line when you flushed it? You might have a friend operate your clutch with you under the truck so you can watch the action of the slave--if it looks like it's binding you might grease it up and try again.

    Good luck.
     
  3. Jan-78FJ40

    Jan-78FJ40

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    Could you elaborate on some things?
    What do you mean by having a 'hard time shifting'? Is there grinding? Do you have to use a lot of force to get the gears in? Is the pedal hard to press? Easy to press? Are there any leaks at the master or the slave? Is the fluid low? Do you know if the slave moves and presses the clutch fork, if you press the pedal?

    yes, lots of questions, but what you wrote/the dealer said does not make sense.

    rust in the line can make the pedal hard to press, if it is a LOT. If there are no leaks, the shifting should not be affected.
    If there are leaks, the master/slave have to be replaced, but you would not be able to shift at all, if the liquid goes very low, because you could not disengage the clutch.
    If the clutch was completely worn, it would slip.
    Maybe it needs just a little adjustment on the pedal?

    Please elaborate on the problem-clutch stuff is usually not hard to troubleshoot.
    cheers,
    Jan
     
  4. cleatus

    cleatus

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    the haynes manual says not to get anypetrolium based products on the parts but to lube with the brake fluid. also you mightneed to adjust the linkage on the slave rod . also make sure you bleed the system completly.
     
  5. brian

    brian SILVER Star

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    how many miles?
    could be that the tranny is just tired.

    the hydraulic side is pretty simple. as long as it's not leaking anywhere, it's working.
    the easiest thing to check would be the wear pad under teh shifter. sorry the techi term is eluding me at the moment. when it wears out it can create shifting problems.

    you need to pull the shifter out of the tranny. it's pretty easy, the hardest part is just getting the rubber boots out of the way. preplacing the pad is jusy as easy, as i think it just sits there, being held in by the shifter.
     
  6. High Desert

    High Desert

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    Shift Seat

    Shift Seat or Shifting Seat, $13-20.00 depending on where you buy it. When it goes bad it crumbles into pieces and lets the shifter drop down messing up it's entry/exit into gates. it is just a plastic/nylon ring that the ball of the gear shift leaver sits on, once the shifter plate is off you'll see it there, kinda blue and white usually

    simple job once you get in there.
     
    Last edited: Feb 28, 2007
  7. Pathfinder

    Pathfinder I am the STIG

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    x2 on the shifter seat. SOR sells for 15. Try that then work down.