Single Use Fasteners

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I whiffed hard. Your sig says you have a '17 - sorry for the confusion. Post change, a la different critter. That PDF predates your truck. There's a rev'd one in your FSM.
 
Zjohnsonua said:
I whiffed hard. Your sig says you have a '17 - sorry for the confusion. Post change, a la different critter. That PDF predates your truck. There's a rev'd one in your FSM.
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Yeah and im confusing things myself lol. Grades, bolt head, and thread lengths… sorry

But this has been very informative nonetheless.

Thanks everyone.

Fyi:

C2504408-A607-4E35-9CED-35F12567F1A7.webp


88F38918-0E6A-4F50-B469-D8A69D8B7242.webp


Only one has compound applied, and I think thats fronts…
 
bigredmachine said:
thats odd, ive never seen that on the front truck calipers both new and reman
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Just double checked, I had it wrong. I’ll edit.

There was moly on the surfaces inside the caliper that the pad edge contacts.
 
bloc said:
Just double checked, I had it wrong. I’ll edit.

There was moly on the surfaces inside the caliper that the pad edge contacts.
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no worries no need to correct it. i also dont like putting anything on the caliper where the pads make contact for the same reason as greasing the pins, brake dust, dirt, crud can build up and keep the pads from moving freely. best maintenance is just periodically pull the pads out, pull the pins out and make sure every thing is clean. if theres rust build up file or wire wheel it off and make sure that everything moves freely
 
Technical reading regarding brake grease. TL;DR, it knocks down brake squeal - which is why OEMs use it.

The Effect of Grease on Brake Squeal

SAE J2521 noise tests are conducted to examine the impact of shim and grease on brake squeal generation. The impact of adhesive (bonded) shim, clip-on shim and grease for noise generation are examined. Low frequency squeal is eliminated by the application of grease on both adhesive (bonded) shims an
www.sae.org www.sae.org
 
AnyMal said:
Alright, this one is for the real gearheads and certified wrenchers.

Ill very soon have to go back into my brakes to fix that knicked piston boot i saw, so everything is coming apart again (including some other fixes to my front end, and a rear mod).
Anyway, picked up parts today and doing a whole rebuild front and rear, piston seals, and slide tubes in the rear while im there.
Also going to buy a slide pin grease that guarantees no swelling, since my CRC kit has gotten mixed feedback on usage instructions for rubber...

Now on to the main point, there are several fasteners which are marked as single use in the diagrams and FSM that I've ignored to replace on the first go around, because i wasnt sure if i would like the aftermarket kit i put on and literally no one seems to do it on brake jobs. I did also ignore the top shock mount bolt since im planning a replacement down the road anyway...

Now, none of these bolts are torque to yield, and none are pricey. The brakes are around 60 lb-ft and the shock mount is like 34... So i never really worried much.
I did just pick up a set though brand new hardware for front and rear caliper/bracket along with my new serp belt (bando for the curious) and they are all grade 11 stamped and have a green what looks to be anti seize or adhesive already on them...

What is this green stuff, how concerned are you guys with these "single use" cautions, and what kind of insight can you share?
From all my experience, i have never seen bolts do anything but seize up. It would really blow my mind for things to back out on their own.

Thanks in advance! Trying to do thiis as "perfectly" as I can on this go around. And its a safety area to boot.
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Are you working on the front or rear brakes? I ask because I was came across the same issue today when replacing my front brake calipers/pads/rotors and lines. I ask because you said 60ftlbs for the caliper bolt torque and I was reading in the fsm that the front caliper bolts are torqued to 133ftlbs. And then I realized they're supposed to be single use. So just debating whether to use my originals, which look to be in good condition, or to go with new ones.
20230313_123845.webp
 
kdubbya said:
Are you working on the front or rear brakes? I ask because I was came across the same issue today when replacing my front brake calipers/pads/rotors and lines. I ask because you said 60ftlbs for the caliper bolt torque and I was reading in the fsm that the front caliper bolts are torqued to 133ftlbs. And then I realized they're supposed to be single use. So just debating whether to use my originals, which look to be in good condition, or to go with new ones. View attachment 3271311
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You are correct, for my model year at least it is 133 on the fronts. Brake line 22 ft-lb.
I think you should be good to reuse judging all the advice given here.

Your brake line is torque shifted though. Redo that and make it point straight to the rear and up towards the collar as best you can.

Currently inquiring on the lines with the peg holder in other threads i bumped today and seems most aftermarket dont have that retainer pin at the bolt head fitting.

Nice brakes BTW, i think DBA probably the best for 200 oem size replacment system.
 
AnyMal said:
You are correct, for my model year at least it is 133 on the fronts. Brake line 22 ft-lb.
I think you should be good to reuse judging all the advice given here.

Your brake line is torque shifted though. Redo that and make it point straight to the rear and up towards the collar as best you can.

Currently inquiring on the lines with the peg holder in other threads i bumped today and seems most aftermarket dont have that retainer pin at the bolt head fitting.

Nice brakes BTW, i think DBA probably the best for 200 oem size replacment system.
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Ya ours is a 2017. Ya my caliper bolts look to be in pretty good condition. Only a little rust on the exposed portion end of the bolt threads. Ya I noticed the misalignment of the brake line with the original location. Tried to torque it as best as possible but holding it in place without that line hook around the banjo bolt sleeve was difficult. I have some spare copper crush washers so I'll try it again to see if it can be closer. I'm also noticing now, as I was just out there looking at it, that the metal grommet that holds the rubber sleeve for the line feed doesn't fit into the bracket where the oem one was. Thanks, I'm really happy with how they're coming out as well. I'm running the sd610 pads now. I had the xp735+(think that was the type) before and it created a ton of dust and literally etched a channel in the oem brake rotors. Picture below. Guess the oem rotors aren't made of a material grade high enough to withstand that level of pad abrasion. That being said, it did stop like a mother f$&!@%. So well actually thar modulating the brake pedal force was difficult, i.e. a light braking action or would damn near lock them up.
20230311_163143.webp
 
kdubbya said:
Ya ours is a 2017. Ya my caliper bolts look to be in pretty good condition. Only a little rust on the exposed portion end of the bolt threads. Ya I noticed the misalignment of the brake line with the original location. Tried to torque it as best as possible but holding it in place without that line hook around the banjo bolt sleeve was difficult. I have some spare copper crush washers so I'll try it again to see if it can be closer. I'm also noticing now, as I was just out there looking at it, that the metal grommet that holds the rubber sleeve for the line feed doesn't fit into the bracket where the oem one was. Thanks, I'm really happy with how they're coming out as well. I'm running the sd610 pads now. I had the xp735+(think that was the type) before and it created a ton of dust and literally etched a channel in the oem brake rotors. Picture below. Guess the oem rotors aren't made of a material grade high enough to withstand that level of pad abrasion. That being said, it did stop like a mother f$&!@%. So well actually thar modulating the brake pedal force was difficult, i.e. a light braking action or would damn near lock them up.
View attachment 3271347
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The clamp fitting was just fine for me, it just needs to be rotated and i believe there is a L/R designation. So double check that while youre in there.

The rotors you are seeing is not actually scored, but rather glazed heavily by the oem pads. The rotor is of good quality, just could use venting due it being a bit undersized while running more heat and off gas oriented performance type pads. If you were to caliper it, id bet it would still be at full 32mm thickness. Its just the OEM pads that are really bad and not really up to the task of huge fitments and towing etc with real confidence.

Best of luck to you! And thanks for reminding me of the banjo word!
 
AnyMal said:
The clamp fitting was just fine for me, it just needs to be rotated and i believe there is a L/R designation. So double check that while youre in there.

The rotors you are seeing is not actually scored, but rather glazed heavily by the oem pads. The rotor is of good quality, just could use venting due it being a bit undersized while running more heat and off gas oriented performance type pads. If you were to caliper it, id bet it would still be at full 32mm thickness. Its just the OEM pads that are really bad and not really up to the task of huge fitments and towing etc with real confidence.

Best of luck to you! And thanks for reminding me of the banjo word!
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Oh, right on. I'll check if those lines are side specific. I just figured the line bracket needed to be widened because slee offroad mentions in their steel lines description that no "modification is needed." I figured considering their wasn't much else you would want/should be modifying when installing brake lines that that's what they were talking about. I know what glazing, pretty sure this isn't it don't think that first pic illustrated very well. was I was trying to describe pic below regarding the channel/etching/scoring. They were turned before I put the pads on and were perfectly flat.
20230313_142720.webp
 
kdubbya said:
Oh, right on. I'll check if those lines are side specific. I just figured the line bracket needed to be widened because slee offroad mentions in their steel lines description that no "modification is needed." I figured considering their wasn't much else you would want/should be modifying when installing brake lines that that's what they were talking about. I know what glazing, pretty sure this isn't it don't think that first pic illustrated very well. was I was trying to describe pic below regarding the channel/etching/scoring. They were turned before I put the pads on and were perfectly flat.
View attachment 3271373
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Damn! That is a huge lip. OEM pads did that damage? Good call on the upgrade then!

Are you saying you are using slee lines? Those look just like my centric set and do not match the pic on slee's website:
sleeoffroad.com

SLEE Brake Line kit - '08 - '21 Land Cruiser / LX 570 - Slee Off Road

DOT Approved 4 Layer Construction - Teflon Inner Core, Kevlar Braid, Protective Layer and Stainless Steel Outer Line Construction 2 x Rear Frame to Axle Lines - Extended Length for longer aftermarket shocks 2 x Rear Caliper to Axle Lines 2 x Front Caliper to Frame Lines Replaces all soft lines...
sleeoffroad.com sleeoffroad.com
 
AnyMal said:
Damn! That is a huge lip. OEM pads did that damage? Good call on the upgrade then!

Are you saying you are using slee lines? Those look just like my centric set and do not match the pic on slee's website:
sleeoffroad.com

SLEE Brake Line kit - '08 - '21 Land Cruiser / LX 570 - Slee Off Road

DOT Approved 4 Layer Construction - Teflon Inner Core, Kevlar Braid, Protective Layer and Stainless Steel Outer Line Construction 2 x Rear Frame to Axle Lines - Extended Length for longer aftermarket shocks 2 x Rear Caliper to Axle Lines 2 x Front Caliper to Frame Lines Replaces all soft lines...
sleeoffroad.com sleeoffroad.com
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No, that's what those xp735+ pads did to the oem rotors! Crazy I know. And they wore down really fast. The sd610s are supposed to low dust and heavy duty, not track day/specific use type pads. No I'm using the centric lines too. I attached a picture of the line guide not seating down the way the oem did. I was saying I think that's what slee meant on their website by no modification required. You're saying you didn't have to modify yours? They just fit in that little channel no problem?
20230313_151504.webp
 
kdubbya said:
No, that's what those xp735+ pads did to the oem rotors! Crazy I know. And they wore down really fast. The sd610s are supposed to low dust and heavy duty, not track day/specific use type pads. No I'm using the centric lines too. I attached a picture of the line guide not seating down the way the oem did. I was saying I think that's what slee meant on their website by no modification required. You're saying you didn't have to modify yours? They just fit in that little channel no problem?
View attachment 3271396
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Check out my build thread. Your line is twisted.
 
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