Single Use Fasteners

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AnyMal

AnyMal

no quema cuh
Joined
Oct 15, 2019
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Alright, this one is for the real gearheads and certified wrenchers.

Ill very soon have to go back into my brakes to fix that knicked piston boot i saw, so everything is coming apart again (including some other fixes to my front end, and a rear mod).
Anyway, picked up parts today and doing a whole rebuild front and rear, piston seals, and slide tubes in the rear while im there.
Also going to buy a slide pin grease that guarantees no swelling, since my CRC kit has gotten mixed feedback on usage instructions for rubber...

Now on to the main point, there are several fasteners which are marked as single use in the diagrams and FSM that I've ignored to replace on the first go around, because i wasnt sure if i would like the aftermarket kit i put on and literally no one seems to do it on brake jobs. I did also ignore the top shock mount bolt since im planning a replacement down the road anyway...

Now, none of these bolts are torque to yield, and none are pricey. The brakes are around 60 lb-ft and the shock mount is like 34... So i never really worried much.
I did just pick up a set though brand new hardware for front and rear caliper/bracket along with my new serp belt (bando for the curious) and they are all grade 11 stamped and have a green what looks to be anti seize or adhesive already on them...

What is this green stuff, how concerned are you guys with these "single use" cautions, and what kind of insight can you share?
From all my experience, i have never seen bolts do anything but seize up. It would really blow my mind for things to back out on their own.

Thanks in advance! Trying to do thiis as "perfectly" as I can on this go around. And its a safety area to boot.
 
I suspect the FSM notes single use because the green stuff (which is essentially a low grade thread locker) is single use. Rather than running the risk of an under torqued bolt coming loose, or a tech applying the wrong thread locker, they just recommend replacing the bolts. Also, this allows the dealership to sell more parts, and incrementally increase profit on each brake job. Almost nobody who is paying dealer prices on a brake job is going to question the $10 worth of bolts, and if they do, the dealership will just point to the FSM.

Re-used bolts torqued appropriately during a brake job have worked for me on multiple Toyotas for hundreds of thousands of miles. That said, you should assess for yourself, and if not certain, follow the FSM.
 
Have never replaced them on any one of the vehicles in my signature. Nearly 800k combined miles and multiple brake jobs and hardware removal/reinstalls.

Never an issue.
 
tbisaacs said:
Sidebar but calipers are so cheap, why rebuild?
Click to expand...

Seals kit was $26 or something. And pistons much more.

How much is the whole caliper???
 
tbisaacs said:
I paid like $100 for brand new OEM
Click to expand...

Everything included assembly? Pistons were like $50 each???

Hold up, i need to price it out, you may have just earned yourself a round on me.

And +1 for team tangents.
 
AnyMal said:
Everything included assembly? Pistons were like $50 each???

Hold up, i need to price it out, you may have just earned yourself a round on me.

And +1 for team tangents.
Click to expand...

McGeorge has them for $135 each right now

Genuine Toyota Caliper part# 47730-60320 for 2016-2021 Toyota Land Cruiser | Ourisman Toyota Parts| Official Online Store

Save Time and Money get your Genuine Toyota Caliper (4773060320) For Your 2016-2021 Toyota Land Cruiser When You Shop With Ourisman Toyota Parts!
toyotaparts.mcgeorgetoyota.com toyotaparts.mcgeorgetoyota.com
 
IMO when developing service procedures Toyota doesn’t care what makes dealers profits, only what they consider best practice, whether it’s because of thread coating or some other safety concern. I agree it’s not TTY in this case.

“Best practice” then would be to replace what they say, regardless of other people’s experience. Me? I reuse most of these bolts. However I torque everything on the brakes to spec. I believe if you aren’t following that step you are much more likely to run into issues.

A number of trusted people reused front brake caliper bolts on 80-series, did torque to spec, and they backed out. As a result that was one bolt I replaced every time. Unsure exactly what was going on there.. same story doesn’t seem to have happened to the heavier 08-15 200 crowd with the same hardware.

Note that front bearing to knuckle bolts are all single-use, but can’t be replaced without destroying the bearing. So in effect make the whole front bearing assembly disposable if you must remove from the knuckle. Safe to say I’m ignoring the FSM in that instance.
 
bloc said:
IMO when developing service procedures Toyota doesn’t care what makes dealers profits, only what they consider best practice, whether it’s because of thread coating or some other safety concern. I agree it’s not TTY in this case.

“Best practice” then would be to replace what they say, regardless of other people’s experience. Me? I reuse most of these bolts. However I torque everything on the brakes to spec. I believe if you aren’t following that step you are much more likely to run into issues.

A number of trusted people reused front brake caliper bolts on 80-series, did torque to spec, and they backed out. As a result that was one bolt I replaced every time. Unsure exactly what was going on there.. same story doesn’t seem to have happened to the heavier 08-15 200 crowd with the same hardware.

Note that front bearing to knuckle bolts are all single-use, but can’t be replaced without destroying the bearing. So in effect make the whole front bearing assembly disposable if you must remove from the knuckle. Safe to say I’m ignoring the FSM in that instance.
Click to expand...

Good to know!

That spindle and lower knuckle attachment is the only thing i have yet to dismantle in the quest for the dead smooth steering im looking for while still hoping bearing and hub is perfect. The runout dial hasn’t even been used yet, only procrastinated.

In this next teardown, it may show me where some of this driver wheel ABS induction is coming from. Ill take extra precautions with this one… and try not to do anything too stupid.
 
tbisaacs said:
McGeorge has them for $135 each right now

Genuine Toyota Caliper part# 47730-60320 for 2016-2021 Toyota Land Cruiser | Ourisman Toyota Parts| Official Online Store

Save Time and Money get your Genuine Toyota Caliper (4773060320) For Your 2016-2021 Toyota Land Cruiser When You Shop With Ourisman Toyota Parts!
toyotaparts.mcgeorgetoyota.com toyotaparts.mcgeorgetoyota.com
Click to expand...

Confirmed in my diagram.
But i was wrong, the pistons are 25 each. So it works out to roughly the same overall cost, minus assembly time.

Sooo, I guess ill be painting these calipers afterall! The 600 calipers come in black now... should i do that or red?
 
i personally have never replaced caliper bolts unless they were damaged or not reuseable for some other reason like severely rusted or thread damage. ive never had an issue with the bolts backing out but i almost always used my 3/8 impact gun.

for slide pin grease i like sil glide, its rubber compatible and you can pick it up just about anywhere Amazon product ASIN B000CIHTPE. for the front caliper pins do not grease them, just make sure that they are clean and rust free when you install them. the grease will trap brake dust, dirt and whatever else to it and cause the pads to get stuck on the pins
 
I should add.. I do put two appropriate caliper bolts in my bring-on-trips tool bag. Plus a rear lower shock bolt. Never had these back out but others have and could pose serious problems. Worth the cost and space, IMO

bigredmachine said:
i personally have never replaced caliper bolts unless they were damaged or not reuseable for some other reason like severely rusted or thread damage. ive never had an issue with the bolts backing out but i almost always used my 3/8 impact gun.

for slide pin grease i like sil glide, its rubber compatible and you can pick it up just about anywhere Amazon product ASIN B000CIHTPE. for the front caliper pins do not grease them, just make sure that they are clean and rust free when you install them. the grease will trap brake dust, dirt and whatever else to it and cause the pads to get stuck on the pins
Click to expand...

My new 2016+ Genuine Toyota front calipers came with a dark moly-type grease on the (edit) pad contact surfaces.
 
Last edited:
okcfunky said:
Arent the 16+ calipers the larger tundra calipers?
Click to expand...
They are close but no. Mounting hardware is M14 vs M12 for tundra, and has a banjo fitting for the brake line vs reverse flare.
 
Toyota's infinite process control is the cause for one-time fastener use in most cases. The annoying part is that they don't preach threaded hole prep as much as they do bolt replacement.

Clean the female threads - spray, thread tap, whatever. Wheel the bolts clean. Pop a bit of blue loctite (commercial version of Toyota green) on the bolts and torque to tight. This is the way for anything that sees real vibration...like brakes and suspension parts.

That 11 you found on the bolt head isn't a hardness...it correlates to the torque it should receive from Toyota's torque table. Keep looking around and you'll see all kinds of numbers stamped in different bolt heads.
 
Zjohnsonua said:
That 11 you found on the bolt head isn't a hardness...it correlates to the torque it should receive from Toyota's torque table.
Click to expand...
Sounds plausible but the numbers in the FSM for these bolts disagree with the torque table for this size, or at least that’s what I discovered when trying to find a torque value for the tow hooks. Same bolts.

Also these bolts from Toyota for 08-15 don’t have the green stuff on them. I’ve never had one torqued to spec come loose.. though as mentioned it seems to have happened on reused fasteners on 80-series.

I totally agree on your notes about hole prep!
 
Ok, this is interesting…

What do the dots mean then?
 
forum.ih8mud.com

Toyota OEM Bolt Markings

forum.ih8mud.com forum.ih8mud.com

post #3

You'll find that B-1 doc posted all over the web from different enthusiast group FSMs.
 
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