Simple identification of a 2F vs a 3FE Engine?

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Sorry for such a silly question but I am in a quandary. I have a modified 1977 FJ43 with a FJ62 series engine transplant mated to a Toyota 5 spd. The work was done over 12 years ago for me by a mechanic who has since passed. Here is my problem: I recently learned that In have several slightly bent push rods (due to low oil pressure...new oil pump installed and pressure now good) and I need to replace them. The follow up - and frankly, embarrassing - issue is... I can't remember (for sure) if the donor vehicle for the engine swap was an '87 or an '89. I have been all over the engine looking for the VIN or engine block ID to help me, but so far have come up empty. The old invoices lead me to believe it's a 3F (if my deciphering skills are up to snuff...his hand writing is HORRIBLE!!) , but I would like to be 100% sure before ordering new push rods. If anyone can either help me determine either 1) where to look for the engine identification number or 2) a few simple and obvious physical differences that would allow me to be sure which engine is now in the vehicle I would be very grateful. Thank you in advance for your reply.
 
2F has a carb, 3FE has EFI, a 2FE is a non stock engine built by combining the bottom end of a 2F with the top end and engine control of a 3FE. Look at the flat "platform" rearward of the dipstick tube for a serial number that starts with 2F or 3F.
 
You're looking for this stamping. 2F serial number info...

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The valve covers are different and the 3fe doesn’t have the port or Pcv valve on the passenger side of the engine like the 2f does. Not to mention the really obvious intake manifold.
 
If you think you may have a 2F/3F block, check you serial number as posted above.
 
The 2FE is a custom build combination of a 2F and a 3FE. There are a number of differences that would quickly be evident from a stock 3FE, but depending on how the conversion was done, most of them have variables in how they would be addressed. I expect you would know for certain if this had been done to your rig. It is not something that just happens because someone bought a 2F block for a rebuild instead of a 3FE block.

Aside from a glance at the serial number on the block, a quick glance at the side of the block will show the very obvious difference in block height.

My question is... how the hell did "slightly low oil pressure" result in bent pushrods? Where is this diagnosis coming from (along with the report that the low oil pressure was caused by the pump)?

Mark...
 
Thanks everyone! The carb/intake is the clincher for me...that was the whole reason for the swap in the first place...I was looking for EFI. We can consider this problem solved.
 
I believe there was also a 3F engine that was offered in non-US markets. 3F block with carb. Most likely came with 5 speed.
 
The 2FE is a custom build combination of a 2F and a 3FE. There are a number of differences that would quickly be evident from a stock 3FE, but depending on how the conversion was done, most of them have variables in how they would be addressed. I expect you would know for certain if this had been done to your rig. It is not something that just happens because someone bought a 2F block for a rebuild instead of a 3FE block.

Aside from a glance at the serial number on the block, a quick glance at the side of the block will show the very obvious difference in block height.

My question is... how the hell did "slightly low oil pressure" result in bent pushrods? Where is this diagnosis coming from (along with the report that the low oil pressure was caused by the pump)?

Mark...

Mark...Thanks for your thorough and thoughtful reply. Obviously, I'm not a mechanic, just repeating what I was told by a friend who is. Prior to replacing the oil pump, the oil pressure gauge was reading very low - even I could see that. After Salvador replaced it, the FJ43 ran much better and gauge is now reading correctly. That said, the motor was still making a slight clicking noise. I asked him to check further and that's when he found the bent pushrods. It's conceivable the root cause is something else, but I trust this mechanic...he's worked on my vintage Mustangs and my NSX. He's old school, loves his work and I have to force him to let me buy new parts instead of allowing him to "fix" the failed original part(s)...at no charge (In fact, he wants to try and re-form these bent push rods but I have insisted on getting new ones...hence my post). Hell, I even have to remind him to invoice me. Anyway...It's entirely possible my comment about the oil pressure was a misquote: Is it possible that very low oil pressure could contribute to bent pushrods? He showed me the rods and they are only just slightly bent, but since I'm getting ready to sell the vehicle I wanted Sal to take care of it so I can have a clear conscience. If, after replacing them, we find they (or some of the other rods) end up bending again, we'll have to dig deeper, but I have confidence he'll sort it out... and as usual I'll probably have to ask him for a bill.

Anyway...thanks again for your reply!
 
The root problem isn't solved because low oil pressure wouldn't result in bent push rods
 
I believe there was also a 3F engine that was offered in non-US markets. 3F block with carb. Most likely came with 5 speed.
The base FJ43 did com from Columbia, but the engine donor vehicle was a Texas truck. Worst case scenario at this point is I order the wrong push rods and have to reorder the correct ones (it's one or the other)...will cost me some time as well, but that's cheap.
 
Oil pressure cannot because bent pushrods. Pretty much the only thing that can cause those pushrods to bend is very improper adjustment . it is also an extremelyl unlikely that low oil pressure would affect how the engine was running.

Mark....
 

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