Shower stalls -- clearing the lower body/sliders (1 Viewer)

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NY2LA

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Anyone else install a shower stall on their roof rack and figure out a solution for the bottom part of it smooshing against the side of the vehicle due to how the vehicle flares outward?

I know some folks have used the moving awning arm from Front Runner, but this is not an option for me, since I don't have a corner available for mounting it. To use that arm, you give me up a corner plus almost a full side of your rack.

I am currently considering using film rigging to create a sort of accordion arm that will allow me to pull the shower stall outward when in use. But this will be a costly approach that may end up being a bit clumsy.
 
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I've just bought one and haven't mounted yet, but expect to run into the same issue. i was thinking of a couple tubes or square tubes sliding inside each other making a telescoping pair of arms (a set at each bracket). Control their extension with a pin.
 
I've just bought one and haven't mounted yet, but expect to run into the same issue. i was thinking of a couple tubes or square tubes sliding inside each other making a telescoping pair of arms (a set at each bracket). Control their extension with a pin.

Oh, that's a great idea. Sort of like a pair of extra long hitch-receivers, then. Outer tubes could be mounted beneath the rack slats.

I've got an appointment at the shop next week and could ask them about fabricating this, but I don't think they can weld to aluminum, and I'm guessing welding the outer tubes might be best.
 
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I'm sure they can weld aluminum.
The shower awning I have only weighs 14 lbs. I would think most any material would be stout enough to push is out five inches. They can just fab up a flat box and have the stock bracket slide in that. One pin hole for 'extended' and another pin hole for 'stowed'.
 
Like this, but only need 2 feet not 24.
 
Like this, but only need 2 feet not 24.
Ingenious! That looks perfect. Only thing is it's steel. From what I understand, aluminum is harder for average shop to weld than steel; and welding steel to aluminum is even harder. Of course, I know nothing at all about welding, so others may shoot me down here.
 
Actually, I have the Front Runner, which has T-slots on the underside of the slots too. So no need to weld this steel contraption to the rack. Can probably just screw it in.
 

Try this they have pre-sleeve aluminum. Just bolt the whole assembly up, no welding required
 

Try this they have pre-sleeve aluminum. Just bolt the whole assembly up, no welding required
That looks like a great option too.

I'm digging the Alcombrametals stuff more and more now too. They have inserts that give you a push button release for the sliding function, and they also have end caps with a threaded screw hole. The shower stall could probably attach directly to those.

 
Telescoping tubing ordered, and request for custom brackets sent to a local fabricator. I decided on 46" long outer tubing, so that I can the option in the future to add something else on the other side. Should have everything in a couple of weeks. Am going to try to get this done before a trip at the end of the month.
 
Telescoping tubing ordered, and request for custom brackets sent to a local fabricator. I decided on 46" long outer tubing, so that I can the option in the future to add something else on the other side. Should have everything in a couple of weeks. Am going to try to get this done before a trip at the end of the month.
Interested to see how it turns out.
 
Here we go. Custom brackets fabricated, and telescoping parts arrived. Thank you, @grinchy, for the concept. Let's see if I make it work.
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No stop pins or rubber isolators yet. This one is ready for the Ironman stock bracket. I audibled from two sections to three earlier so am short a couple bearings.
My goal was to have it behind the rear door when deployed, but as I have the stock rack I need quite a bit of rearward swing to get there.
Took advantage of the angle material overlap to slot it, it’s as stiff as the material is at each joint. Only give a tiny bit at the roof rack bearing, it’ll hold 15 static pounds for sure with no sag.
Extension is 30” and projection is 13”.
Folded.

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Nice, @grinchy. Got mine done today too. Mine is mounted between my rack and my roof. A challenging fit, but it worked.

My basic approach was to make "bracket sandwiches" using two top pieces and two sides pieces for each sandwich. Two sandwiches for each of two tubes. The sandwiches work by compression and bolts to the slots at the underside of the rack cross-pieces. Locks nuts and threadlock to get everything nice and secure.

For extra security (against any highly unlikely mount failure as well as theft), I have locking straps holding the shower stall to the side of the roof rack. (These aren't shown in the pictures.)

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After I catch my breath, I'm going to clean up a few details--adjust rack height a bit, replace washers stacks with spacers, and paint the exposed aluminum. Also, if I were doing this again, I'd get the brackets made in a more rigid metal. These have more flex than I'd like, though the tubing doesn't budget an iota when you yank on it, so they are doing their job.
 
Nice, @grinchy. Got mine done today too. Mine is mounted between my rack and my roof. A challenging fit, but it worked.

My basic approach was to make "bracket sandwiches" using two top pieces and two sides pieces for each sandwich. Two sandwiches for each of two tubes. The sandwiches work by compression and bolts to the slots at the underside of the rack cross-pieces. Locks nuts and threadlock to get everything nice and secure.

For extra security (against any highly unlikely mount failure as well as theft), I have locking straps holding the shower stall to the side of the roof rack. (These aren't shown in the pictures.)

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Looks amazing. What is your total projection from the rack mount to en-suite mount?
 

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