Show me your additional 12v sockets (5 Viewers)

[eatSleepWoof]

I picked up a small panel with three 12v sockets and plan to mount it somewhere in the cargo/trunk area. It'll be always hot, with two normal 12v sockets and a third socket that has dual USB ports + voltage output. Current plan is to mount it somewhere on the wall of the passenger side, and run wiring under the door-sills, through the passenger-side grommet in the firewall.

Curious to see how/where others have mounted such sockets! Pics?

So far I've only found this example:
- What have you done to your 200 Series this week?

 

[TeCKis300]

I have mine located here. Changed a couple socket to USB and USB-C, and removed the physical power switch and voltage monitor since I've added a SwitchPros to turn it on/off/with ignition and monitor voltage.

 

[sdnative]

Search "Blue Sea USB" in the 200 forum for several examples.

 

[eatSleepWoof]

I have mine located here. Changed a couple socket to USB and USB-C, and removed the physical power switch and voltage monitor since I've added a SwitchPros to turn it on/off/with ignition and monitor voltage.

View attachment 2435788

Nice setup. Being in the easily removable little panel is a nice plus, too.

Search "Blue Sea USB" in the 200 forum for several examples.

Thanks for the tip, that's turning up some more leads!

More examples
- Blue Sea Rear power
- What have you done to your 200 Series this week?
- What have you done to your 200 Series this week?

 

[mcgaskins]

Midway down this post: Builds - mcgaskins' 2016 build thread - Ruby

 

[grinchy]

There is grommet in the rear directly under the spot pictured. You can run your wire under the rig and up through that grommet as well.

 

[cboyd]

If the usb outlets you picked up have any kind of status led, make sure you put a switch on them as others have done. Those things have a surprising parasitic load..

 

[eatSleepWoof]

If the usb outlets you picked up have any kind of status led, make sure you put a switch on them as others have done. Those things have a surprising parasitic load..

Good point, thanks! The panel I got does have an on/off switch, and one of the sockets does display voltage. I may have to swap that one out so I don't have to worry about the parasitic draw.

 

[CharlieS]

 

[greynolds]

I have mine located here. Changed a couple socket to USB and USB-C, and removed the physical power switch and voltage monitor since I've added a SwitchPros to turn it on/off/with ignition and monitor voltage.

View attachment 2435788

That's a great location, IMHO, for those of us who don't have 3rd row seats and what I just finished up installing yesterday afternoon. Are you running into any problems with the panel popping out? I installed outlets on both the driver's and passenger's sides and the panels aren't staying in tightly. Slightly more force than pulling the rubber cover of the 12V cig lighter socket is enough to dislodge the panel.

I did forgo the plastic trim piece around the outlets as I thought the install looked a bit more "factory" without it, spaced the holes for the outlets out a bit more (so the holes are closer to the edges of the panel, and cleaned up the plastic edges on the underside to I could fully tighten the 12V socket nuts on the backside.

So I'm wondering if my panels are bad, I drilled holes too close to the edges, or trimming the plastic edges adjacent to the holes so I could tighten the nuts are the problem. I really want to make this work as those panels only cost about $20 to completely reverse the install, but I definitely can't live with the panels popping out easily.

I do have a potential solution for the passenger's side. There's a threaded hole in a metal bracket behind the panel, so I could drill a matching hole in the panel and use a bolt to hold the panel in place, but there isn't an equivalent on the driver's side.

 

[TeCKis300]

Nope, can't say I am.

Wonder if the install without the plate causes the sockets to be that much deeper behind? Are the sockets clearing at the back?

Could probably also improve the fit with some putty/sugru on the tabs?

 

[shelby95]

Nope, can't say I am.

Wonder if the install without the plate causes the sockets to be that much deeper behind? Are the sockets clearing at the back?

Could probably also improve the fit with some putty/sugru on the tabs?

Beat me to it. I second the Sugru suggestion.

 

[greynolds]

Nope, can't say I am.

Wonder if the install without the plate causes the sockets to be that much deeper behind? Are the sockets clearing at the back?

Could probably also improve the fit with some putty/sugru on the tabs?

I don't seem to be having any trouble getting it to sit flush, but the panel also isn't clicking into place when I put it back in. It's certainly possible that the combination of sockets and wiring are causing a spring effect that encourages the panel to pop out. Something I can try is to loosen the sockets so they are sticking out a bit and see if that makes a difference.

I used the heavy duty power switch that Powerwerx sells as I liked that it has 1/4" terminal studs instead of quick release connectors (close to zero chance of anything disconnecting on that end of the cables. That's shallower than the other 3 sockets that I have installed, so I doubt that's the problem. I ran an 8awg wire from the battery to the power switch and then used inline fuses between the other terminal of the switch and each socket for power. For the ground, I used the ground connection that's behind the main trim panel adjacent to the tailgate on each side. Other than the trim panel not staying put, everything else seems fine so far.

Given that I have fuses behind the panel, I don't think something like Sugru is a good option for me.

 

[TeCKis300]

Gotcha.

I didn't mean to weld in the panel with putty. Just token little bits to improve the snugness of the fit so it snaps in more firmly? Perhaps others might have some ideas.

 

[greynolds]

Gotcha.

I didn't mean to weld in the panel with putty. Just token little bits to improve the snugness of the fit so it snaps in more firmly? Perhaps others might have some ideas.

Yeah, that might help. I'll try loosening the sockets a bit first to see if that makes any difference. If all I need to do is to install some spacers, that's obviously the easiest solution.

 

[eatSleepWoof]

I also experienced the panel-not-sitting-tight factor last night after I installed my own solution...

I mounted my socket panel and a BlueSea fuse block to the panel door, and I think both of these are slightly "straightening" out the curve in the panel, causing it to not sit as nicely as it did before.

I mostly solved it, but it was a pain. First I added a small tie-down hook on the inside of the panel (note the two vertical bolts in close proximity on the right side of this photo, towards the latch), and then attached a bungee cord inside the jack cavity, which attaches to that hook and "pulls" the panel in tighter. It is better, but still not as nice as the panel was before.

 

[Markuson]

I’ve added no less than 18 various sockets, housing anything from 12V plugs, to USB, USB-C and more.

It’s is difficult to even find USB outlets that don’t have voltage indication...but I have not found that they pull much power. Most of mine are not switched...but the four I used for frequent device charging are.

The the case below, I cut out the useless ashtrays on row two and turned them into extremely useful charging stations for stuff I keep in my truck 24/7.

I try to avoid mounting plugs where cargo will threaten them (or where they will restrict cargo loading). Another great spot to avoid this issue is on the rear side window ledges.

 

[eatSleepWoof]

I try to avoid mounting plugs where cargo will threaten them (or where they will restrict cargo loading). Another great spot to avoid this issue is on the rear side window ledges.

That was the spot I originally wanted to use! When I pulled back the side panel (passenger side) it didn't look like there was any space underneath the panel to allow the sockets to fit. How did you make it work?

 

[greynolds]

Yeah, that might help. I'll try loosening the sockets a bit first to see if that makes any difference. If all I need to do is to install some spacers, that's obviously the easiest solution.

I came up with a solution this afternoon that seems to work. I stole the ears off of a couple of old work electrical boxes, drilled holes for the screws in the panels and then used the ears to clamp the panel in place. I may paint the screw heads black later, but this solution seems to solve the problem. It's a bit tricky getting them in and out, but only a philips head screwdriver is needed. I used the exact same setup on both the driver's side and the passenger's side.

OldWorkboxEars.jpg

• greynolds
• Sep 16, 2020

OutletsMounted.jpg

• greynolds
• Sep 16, 2020

 

[eatSleepWoof]

I came up with a solution this afternoon that seems to work. I stole the ears off of a couple of old work electrical boxes, drill holes for the screws in the panels and then used the ears to clamp the panel in place. I may paint the screw heads black later, but this solution seems to solve the problem. It's a bit tricky getting them in and out, but only a philips head screwdriver is needed. I used the exact same setup on both the driver's side and the passenger's side.

OldWorkboxEars.jpg

• greynolds
• Sep 16, 2020

OutletsMounted.jpg

• greynolds
• Sep 16, 2020

That’s a great idea!

Anyone know whether such “ears” can be bought separately? They just have some kind of name...