Should you buy an imported 80 Series Land Cruiser in the US? (2 Viewers)

[ikarus]

Should you? Should I? Should anyone? I’ve been asked this enough times both in real life and online that I thought I would attempt to put together a “guide” to owning an imported cruiser. I hope this helps someone and I can contribute a little to this forum that has been so helpful to me.

I’m not an expert of course, just wanted to share some of the insights and knowledge I’ve gained over the past couple years owning a ’97 HDJ81 - that’s a diesel 80 Series from the Japanese domestic market (JDM) with the 1HD-FT engine.

It seems like the idea of owning an imported car has become more and more widespread in the US over the last few years. But I do realize that most of this is going to be old news for all the guys out there who have been there, done that. Not to mention the Canadians and their 15 year rule.

Add your feedback below - curious to hear other opinions.

I’ll talk about RHD issues which of course don’t apply to all imported cruisers, but JDM cruisers seem to be some of the most popular vehicles imported to the US. Also I’m mostly talking about 80 Series since that’s the only import I’ve owned (besides an E30 Touring my buddy and I imported and s50 swapped a while ago but that’s a story for another day) - but a lot of this will apply to 70 and 100 Series imports as well.

Here are the most common questions and concerns I see when people first start shopping for an import:

How is the maintenance?

How is parts availability?

How are they day-to-day as daily drivers?


Maintenance

But wait, these are legendary LaNd cRUSheRS that never break down right? Well yeah but at 25+ years old, you’re going to see wear and tear. As they say, part of the beauty of old Toyotas is that they just keep running even when poorly maintained - for better or for worse.

The good news is, you replace your worn out parts with new OEM and you have another 25 years ahead of you. And that’s one of the first myths I think you need to put away - you WILL need to do work on a 25 year old car, even a legendary Land Cruiser. Most of us here understand that but I bring it up because I've had multiple friends through the years buy used Toyotas with overland dreams, only to have their plans ruined and budgets overwhelmed by the previous owner's deferred maintenance schedule.

There are 2 schools of thought:

1. Drive it, fix it when it breaks, drive it more
2. Drive it, preemptively fix it, oh while I’m in there doing the timing belt I should have the IP redone. Oh while I’m in there I should get new injectors. Oh and I might as well get all new coolant lines and an intercooler. Oh and and and…. Before you know it, your Land Cruiser is 2/3 disassembled up on jack stands for 6 months and you need to buy a daily. I think this is a disease called Mud OCD. I have it.

Mechanical work

In my opinion, you may not want to buy a diesel/JDM Land Cruiser unless you are:

a) willing to do a lot, if not all, of the work yourself or
b) have the resources to send it to a specialty shop like SNLC's or Valley Hybrids that will do all the work correctly.

Of course you don’t have to do everything on your own. A lot of stuff will be similar to a US model, like suspension, brakes, lockers and gears. So if you have a trusted shop that knows Land Cruisers, great. But if you don’t have a Land Cruiser shop already, and you’re going to go around asking mechanics if they can figure out how to work a car that was never sold in the US with an engine that was never serviced in the US… you might be disappointed.

Having said that, on a diesel 80 Series for example, the injector pump is a pretty standard Bosch design, so you should be able to find diesel shops that know enough to service it. But you most likely won’t find shops like they have in Australia that live and breathe Land Cruisers.

All the Factory Service Manuals (FSMs) can be found in the resource section here. It may take some creative thinking. For example, I use the 1HDFT FSM for my engine, the FZJ80 FSM for body/drivetrain/brakes, and a separate FSM for the transmission.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/resources/categories/80-series.20/

I say dive into it. Read up on what needs to be done and get into the engine bay and start learning. These cruisers are simple (ish) and can mostly be worked on in your garage. There’s nothing better than really understanding how the systems work together, and grasping the ins and outs. This also gives you confidence as you take your cruiser into remote locations, knowing you can fix whatever the trail throws at you. When you take it to a mechanic, the cruiser’s internal workings may just remain a black box of mystery.

International OEM Parts Sources

Many international parts sources are surprisingly well-stocked, fast, and often have better prices than US sources, even after international shipping.

Partsouq and Amayama very helpful resources. Partsouq especially has a very good interface that lets you input your VIN/Frame No., and it will bring up all the engine/drivetrain/interior/electrical diagrams you need. From those diagrams, you can see the part’s availability, substitutions, and amount of parts available.
https://partsouq.com/
Genuine Japanese Car Part Imports - Amayama - https://www.amayama.com/en

I find that Partsouq has just about everything I need but occasionally when I’m on a real quest for some obscure part, Amayama and Japan4x4 have always pulled through for me.

One quirk when buying through Partsouq: Occasionally only some of the things I order will show up. They do refund me, but when I go back into my order history I’ll see that they just put a “0/1 Fulfilled” next to that part number. No notification that they couldn’t get the part for me. Just make sure to check big orders when they arrive, especially if you’re going to set everything aside for a little while.

Amayama will often go through a multi step process for parts. First they have to confirm that they in fact have the part in their inventory. From there you’ll either get a rejection and a notice that the part is NLA (huge downer) or they’ll confirm that the part is ready to go, and let you know that it’s ready for payment.

Japan4x4 - Anyone who has been working on exotic cruisers for a while will know Dave, and he’s awesome. Very knowledgeable, prompt and helpful, he can track down anything you need - as long as Toyota is still making it. I got a quote from him for 98% of a manual transmission swap using OEM parts and even with shipping to the US, it was very reasonable.
Japan4x4 Export Service - http://export.japan4x4.com/

Additionally, friends have reported success with Impex and Megazip but I can’t personally vouch for either of those sites.
IMPEX JAPAN — online new genuine spare parts shop - https://en.impex-jp.com/
MegaZip - Genuine OEM Parts From Japan, USA, UAE | Online Store - https://www.megazip.net/

who doesn't love oem parts?


Domestic OEM Parts Sources

All the usual suspects can be used here - Camelback Toyota, Olathe, etc. I’ve also seen people talking about how a lot of diesel-specific, non-US parts can actually be ordered straight through the parts department at your local US dealer. If you know a good parts guy, I bet you’d be surprised at what you can still buy new from Toyota. I got a quote from the local dealer for a brand new H152 transmission a while ago. Don’t know why, but they stock them in the US. Maybe for mining and military 70 Series.

Cruiser Outfitters is the first place I check for most big OEM parts. They have a lot of 80 Series parts - diesel or gas - ready to go. In the last year I’ve bought all sorts of things from an HDJ80 radiator to a complete brake refresh (calipers, pads, rotors, brake lines.)
Cruiser Outfitters - Google Search - https://g.co/kgs/QMKx1dT
Cruiser Teq | Land Cruiser Specialists Powered by Cruiser Outfitters - https://cruiserteq.com/

Back40 Imports carries a lot of diesel stuff - I’ve got an ACSD delete and a fuel pin from him.
Back 40 Imports - https://back40imports.com/


Used/Junkyard Parts

If you’ve spent any time looking into JDM cars like Nissan Skylines, you’ll see that a lot of time and effort is put into sourcing parts as simple as a windshield or a fender that can’t generally be found in the US.

Luckily with the 80 Series, you can source a lot of parts from body panels to windshields that will bolt right up. I have a spare rust-free hatch and some fenders from the local junkyard and Mud classifieds waiting to be painted and installed. There are small differences, like JDM fender lights on the JDM fender, or the antenna switching sides from JDM-US. But other than that, I count that as a win. Less time searching for rare parts and more time fixing, wrenching and driving.

lucky day at the junkyard. Scored a fender too

Here on Mud I’m always checking the JDM classifieds section, you never know what you’ll find:
Classifieds: Diesel & JDM - https://forum.ih8mud.com/forums/classifieds-diesel-jdm.92/

Occasionally I’ll use these sites for used parts:

BeForward Japan
New & Used Japanese Car Spare Parts Online - BE FORWARD Auto Parts - https://autoparts.beforward.jp/

eBay Australia
Electronics, Cars, Fashion, Collectibles & More | eBay - https://www.ebay.com.au/

Some eBay AU sellers will send packages to the US, but some won’t. In that case you can use a mail forwarder like AusFF
Mail Forwarding | Cheap Shipping Service | Freight Forwarder | AUSFF - https://www.ausff.com.au/

*oh and a minor thing to remember when searching for parts internationally - most of the world spells it as “80 Series Landcruiser” not “80 Series Land Cruiser” like we do in the states. Sometimes it makes a difference in search results.


Australian Vendors

Cruisers are like F150s over there as far as I can tell. Huge aftermarket. I've worked with a lot of friendly Australians who are more than happy to facilitate shipping to the US. However be ready for sticker shock on freight for larger items. And returns don’t really work internationally so shop at your own risk.

I’ve personally worked with:

PDI (Intercooler, airbox and diesel parts)
PDI Intercoolers - Upgrade Your Diesel Engine | Our Store - https://www.performancedieselintercoolers.com.au/products

Torqit (Exhaust)
4WD Performance Parts & Upgrades | 4WD Products Online Store | Torqit - https://torqit.com.au/

Sandgrabba/NoBull Accessories (Floor mats)
Sandgrabba Mats for Sale | No Bull Accessories - https://www.nobullaccessories.com.au/sandgrabba

Radius (Snorkel)
Radius Fabrications - https://radiusfabrications.com.au/

The 4WD Shed (aftermarket 4x4 parts)
The 4WD Shed - https://www.the4wdshed.com/

HD Automotive (Diesel parts)
Home - HD Automotive - https://hdautomotive.com.au/

There are many more like Superior Engineering, Marks 4WD, GTurbo, Manta Exhausts, and Krae 4x4… too many to list.

 

[ikarus]

Resources

It goes without saying that Mud will be your most valuable resource, right after the FSM. Tons of knowledgeable guys who have had your specific problem 15 years ago and already figured it out. Just make sure you research your question thoroughly before asking a question that’s been asked 30x already.

The diesel tech section of Mud is a treasure trove of valuable info. Don’t forget about it if you spend most of your time in the 80 Section-
Diesel Tech / 24 volts - https://forum.ih8mud.com/forums/diesel-tech-24-volts.24/

Facebook Groups

There are quite a few Aussies on Mud but a lot of the younger ones are only on Facebook. Here are a few 80 Series groups that I’ve found helpful - lots of discussions about repairs and modifications that are more diesel/RHD specific. Also lots of great pics/inspiration for builds that are different from the way we usually build cruisers in the states.

Modified 80 Series Landcruisers
Log into Facebook - https://www.facebook.com/groups/2819537254737952/

80 Series Landcruiser Owners
Log into Facebook - https://www.facebook.com/groups/1649178311965757/

1HDFT
Log into Facebook - https://www.facebook.com/groups/427235427823868

This one is based in the US: Diesel Land Cruiser Owners USA
Log into Facebook - https://www.facebook.com/groups/304097082317988


Emissions

I don’t know much about other states so feel free to chime in with your experiences.
In Utah, any diesel ’97 and older does not require emissions testing, presumably because of the lack of an OBD port.

If you’re in Colorado, I’ve heard that some counties (front range?) do require tests. And if you’re in California, the consensus is… time to set up an LLC in Montana!
Either way, make sure to do your research before you buy so you don't end up with a cruiser that can't be registered in your locale.


Registration

No problem for me in Utah. If it came with a title (even from another state,) you walk in with a bill of sale and transfer the title and register like any other car. You don’t need any import documents. The VIN will be different than standard US VINs so they may have a DMV employee walk out with you to verify the VIN in the engine bay.

If you are wondering about importing your own and registering it for the first time, I can’t help you with that, but this extremely informative thread by @gilmorneau in the importing section is for you.
Information Re: Importing to the USA and Complete DIY How-To - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/information-re-importing-to-the-usa-and-complete-diy-how-to.1242055/

If you’re in Georgia or any of those states that are cracking down on JDMs and Kei trucks, I would recommend learning from other JDM enthusiasts and see what’s going on before buying. Sounds like things are settling down but I know it got sketchy for a minute there.


Insurance

I talked to a few providers before I bought my cruiser. My insurance company at the time leaned hard into the idea that customers love talking to robots (??) so I gave up after about 20 min on the help line. Next up was Hagerty - they were very helpful and responsive but their policies seem to be more tailored toward Cars and Coffee Sunday drivers. They also balked at offroad use.

I finally ended up with a local State Farm agent that I could actually speak to in person. There’s been some back and forth, most notably with an error on my VIN because of the difference between US and JDM VINs - so I kept getting notices from the state that I didn’t have insurance on their records and I was in legal peril blah blah… finally got it cleared up and I’ve been good to go.

The only thing in the back of my mind is that my insurance value is based on market value. They told me to keep all my receipts for parts and modifications, and that in the event of it being totaled they would look at fair market value of similar vehicles. I do have a fear that I could end up getting screwed by insurance (completely unfounded and irrational fear right?) so I am going to looking switching over to an agreed upon value.


Prices

I’ve been following the market for imported 70s and 80s for years. 70 Series prices seem to hold strong with good RHD examples rarely dipping to $20K, and are more often $30-40K. LHD 70 Series always command a premium.

Imported 80 Series prices on the other hand seem to have peaked in 2021-2023 and have been cooling off. They no longer seem to get the high prices on BaT like they once did. I would say you could budget $30K for a solid RHD cruiser or a decent LHD cruiser. $20-25K might get you a decent RHD cruiser if you’re patient. When I was looking for this one, I saw a pretty clean LHD 5-speed w/250K miles in the Canary Islands for $45K landed in the US. I picked up mine with 150K miles and an automatic for quite a bit less.

fresh off the boat and on its maiden voyage through Moab


Markets

I mostly know about JDM cruisers. If anyone has any insights they want to share, I’m all ears.

JDM: RHD. Often lower mileage due to the cost of running and maintaining old cars. Even though the interiors are often in great shape, many have been smoked in. You’ll also see some weird modifications like funky interiors, aftermarket steering wheels, and body lifts. Usually easily reversible stuff but make sure you know what you’re getting into. The auctions can be tricky to navigate for a first timer so it may be easier to just buy one that’s in the US already. And watch out for odometer rollbacks - the interior condition of a “30K mile cruiser” should match the alleged mileage. I’ve even seen 80s on BaT that claimed low (sub 100K kms) mileage when you could clearly read on the sticker under the hood that the timing belt had been changed at 200K kms.

Euro: LHD with the exception of the UK. Often expensive. Rust can be a concern in some parts of Germany and the UK. I’ve seen a lot of clean 80s coming out of Spain and the Canary Islands (dry desert climates.)

South America: LHD. I’ll admit I don’t know too much about SA but it seems like cruisers live a hard life down there. Venezuela kept making 80s locally until 2007.

Australia: RHD. Well-kept 80s are still gold down here. Plenty of cruisers across the country but they are properly USED with 4 or 500K + kms on rough rural roads.

Middle East: LHD. Diesels are rare, most are gas. Lots of manual transmissions from what I’ve seen. Cruisers either seem to be driven to death or pampered with plastic still on the seats. Few in between.


What to look out for

As with all cruisers, look for a well-maintained example with service records. Avoid rust at all costs. Compression test, inspection, all the stuff you’d normally do. With a suspiciously low mileage car you should verify the mileage.

If you really want to find the best value, find one that’s already in the states, has already been brought up to date on all maintenance, and already has modifications that you would add yourself.

If your goal is to spend a lot of money, disregard all that and start from square one.

Only partially kidding, there’s definitely something to be said for doing all the work yourself so that you know who to blame when things break. I went for a cruiser that was already in the states and had a good amount of maintenance done. After an inspection, I felt comfortable driving it 11 hours home.



Model Variants

Make sure to study the different variants and years before you make a move. This isn’t a comprehensive list but some of the things I’ve noticed with 80 Series:

HDJ80 signifies cruisers in the European, South American, Middle Eastern and Australian markets
HDJ81 signifies cruisers in the Japanese market. Don’t know why, just know that is how it is.

Base model poverty pack cruisers came with the 1HZ NA diesel. Generally regarded as super slow but reliable.
Base model poverty pack cruisers had barn doors and vinyl seats
Base models often had part time transfer cases

Upper level models usually had full time transfer cases
Upper level model (VX, VXL) in Japan, Australia and Europe came with the 1HDT from ’90-94, then 1HDFT from 95-97- except for South America which used the 1HDT as far as I can tell from ’90-’97 (or even ’98 according to some cruisers I’ve seen)
Upper level model (VX, VXL) often came with tire carriers and a nicer interior.
Upper level JDM cruisers have an interesting steering box with a solenoid that tightens up the steering at freeway speeds. I do like the steering feel, but it’s not a simple plug and play to install a standard steering box. The steering shaft for example is shorter on these upper level models.

There is one elusive JDM model in ’97 that came with the 1HDFT and a pov pack/barn door setup. Very cool spec. Only seen it once.

EGR vs non EGR: Many JDM models have EGR that really gunks up the intake and many prefer a non-EGR engine.

Electronics: JDM vehicles will usually come with a rat’s nest of wiring for random aftermarket electronics. Little bit of a headache to remove.

Airbags: ’90-94 had no airbags, ’95-96 got a driver airbag, and ’97 had both driver and passenger airbag. This could very from market to market as well.



Modifications

Headlights: if you get a RHD cruiser, even though your headlights feel like they’re putting out light like a Coleman lantern, you’ll still get flashed by oncoming drivers because the pattern of the headlight housings is designed for a RHD road and shines into oncoming traffic. Most people replace them with Depo housings or quad lights.

EGT gauge: If your imported cruiser is a diesel, one of the first things you’ll want to add is an EGT gauge to measure the health of your engine/tune. One of the only real killers of a Toyota diesel is excessive heat.

Standard diesel upgrade package: If you’re looking to increase the safety, efficiency and performance of your diesel engine, you’ll want to read this 53 page thread and add an intercooler:
The official 1HDT Intercooler thread - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/the-official-1hdt-intercooler-thread.514067/

Next this 25 page thread on airboxes:
The "Official" 1HZ/1HD-T/1HD-FT Airbox/Intake Mod Thread - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/the-official-1hz-1hd-t-1hd-ft-airbox-intake-mod-thread.731686/

and finally add an exhaust. You’ll probably get a 3” straight pipe and the neighbors will wonder what is wrong with you, or will love you depending on how cool they are, and your kids will love it if you’ve raised them right

Then you’ll want to redo your injection pump and injectors. Then you’ll want a 4” snorkel. Then you’ll want a new turbo. Then you’ll want to read this 79 page thread on how to tune your fuel pump:
The Official 1HD-T/FT Fuel Pump Mod Tuning Thread - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/the-official-1hd-t-ft-fuel-pump-mod-tuning-thread.728533/

Once you’ve found the delicate balance between power and not rolling too much coal, you’ll finally be happy… I assume. I’m not there yet.

24V starter - some love it, others remove it and install a 12V starter. Other than the OEM 24V starter, 80 Series diesels are 12V. The dual batteries are just linked together during starting.



So, can you daily it?

Yes, absolutely. I daily’d mine for a year until I got tired of carrying bulky and/or dirty stuff in my pristine JDM interior. Time for a truck bed - I picked up a 2nd gen Tundra that I was going to keep boring and reliable.. until I got a deal on a supercharger and now I’m gonna need a daily for my daily

My cruiser keeps up with traffic both around town and on the freeway. It has great visibility and is fun to drive. Range is great - I get about 350-400 miles to the tank.

Having said that, making an old cruiser your daily really depends on your wrenching style. Like mentioned previously, 25 year old parts will fail at some point, no matter the brand. For the 80 Series, plan on things like a radiator replacement, hoses, heater valve, timing belt, knuckles, or seals leaking over time.

So if you’re like me, and you hate it when it’s 10pm, your car is disassembled, YouTube and the forums can’t answer your questions, and you have to be at work in 10 hours - I say get another daily. I find that it’s much better to be able to set the tools down, take a break, and order the correct part that will arrive in one week, rather than rushing to make a temporary fix just to get back on the road.

Now as far as the actual day-to-day experience of owning a JDM cruiser in the US?


RHD

RHD life in a LHD world: this can be a contentious topic on par with the argument whether going over GVWR and tow capacity will lead to life in prison. (If you’ve ever looked up towing on a forum, you know.) But I’ve never felt like it was too difficult to learn. Biggest day-to-day issues are going to the wrong side of the car to get in, or confusing wipers and turn signals.

I picked up my HDJ81 in Phoenix and promptly jumped into traffic to drive home. Thought I was going to die at first but quickly got the hang of it. Made it home just fine.

Can RHD be a little annoying? Yes, but 98% of the time I barely notice it. And for me the pros outweigh the cons. With a JDM vehicle you often get less miles and better condition, for a cheaper price than LHD.

You’ll have to convert KMH to MPH as you drive. I mostly drive by vibe. Even if I did the math I’d have to factor in the 35s. I do get used to some local speed limits and remember a few mph/kmh equivalents. Also you can now check your speed easily via GPS on Google Maps if you get a CarPlay head unit, which is helpful.

Drive Thrus? I’ve never attempted to drive through backwards. My kids love sitting in the passenger seat and ordering occasionally. But for the most part a RHD will force you to eat at home and eat healthy. I’m in the best shape of my life because of my Land Cruiser.

Ok just kidding but seriously you could also just walk into the lobby which is what I do now if I want takeout.

Parking garages - these are getting annoying. On older ticket machines I can lean over or get out and grab a ticket. But on newer machines I swear they’re using facial recognition. I’ve had to back up the ramp to get out on two occasions after it refused to give me a ticket.

Passing on a 2 lane rural road. You’re probably not going to be able to or even want to. If you’re living in an area where all you drive is 2 lane rural highways and get stuck behind slow traffic, RHD is probably not right for you. We have enough passing zones that I have yet to be stuck behind a slow vehicle for so long that I wished I wasn’t driving RHD.

Left turn in the middle of a big 4-way intersection - it can be difficult to see oncoming traffic if there’s a large truck in front of you waiting to turn left in the opposite direction. I personally deal with it maybe once a month. Depends on your location.

You will occasionally meet interested people. Mostly middle aged men at gas stations, JDM teenage fanboys sneaking pictures and diesel bros yelling “hell yeah BRUTHER I thought that was a CUMMINS!” It’s pretty great. Lots of mailman jokes. If you don’t like attention, don’t worry, it’s not like driving an R34 GTR. I fly under the radar most of the time.

Overall, I recommend the experience but only if you don’t go in with rose-colored glasses. This isn’t the same Toyota experience as walking into a dealership and buying a brand new 4Runner, slapping a bunch of accessories on, then having the dealership do your oil changes. Nothing wrong with that. Actually, typing that out, it sounds kind of pleasant.

Don’t get me wrong, owning an imported cruiser (or any old cruiser at this point) is a labor of love. Most people won’t get it. And I could have bought a brand new car in cash with the money I’ve dumped into this money pit. But owning and maintaining your own JDM/diesel cruiser will give you a whole new appreciation for the golden age of Toyota SUVs - if you’re willing to put in the effort.

 

[bicycleagent003]

That's a great contribution to Mud. Thanks for taking the time to write that up.

 

[gilmorneau]

Awesome--well said.

I've had my import diesel 80 for almost 3 years. It's my daily. No worries. Before that I had a diesel 70-series for 4 years as my daily. No worries with that one, either. It's important to remember that although these cars are unique and even exotic in the USA, they were built by Toyota to be driven. They were never intended to be play toys or show cars. The good people of Japan, Australia, Europe, the Middle East, and elsewhere drove them daily all the time. That's what they're for.

Having and driving an imported Landcruiser that's 25+ years old isn't really any different than having and driving any other car that's 25+ years old. Some are in good shape, some are worn out, but they're all going to need work sometimes.

If you’re in Colorado, I’ve heard that some counties (front range?) do require tests.

The details of this are: Not all counties in Colorado require emissions testing, but if you're in a place that does (roughly from Fort Collins to Pueblo) it's a two-step process for imported diesels. Step one is an inspection, to confirm that the vehicle has it's original motor and all original emissions equipment. This is done at a single facility in Denver. Appointment required. Step two is an actual emissions test (i.e. tailpipe sniff) to confirm that the emissions aren't excessive. It's just a simple opacity test, so if your diesel is anywhere near properly tuned, it's no problem to pass.

Euro: LHD with the exception of the UK. Often expensive. Rust can be a concern in some parts of Germany and the UK. I’ve seen a lot of clean 80s coming out of Spain and the Canary Islands (dry desert climates.)

Southern France is also good hunting.

There is one elusive JDM model in ’97 that came with the 1HDFT and a pov pack/barn door setup. Very cool spec. Only seen it once.

This spec also came LHD in a very few countries in Europe. I've seen them in Switzerland and Belgium. That's what mine is.

owning an imported cruiser (or any old cruiser at this point) is a labor of love. Most people won’t get it

True. I'm not sure my wife gets it. lol...

 

[ikarus]

Awesome--well said.

I've had my import diesel 80 for almost 3 years. It's my daily. No worries. Before that I had a diesel 70-series for 4 years as my daily. No worries with that one, either. It's important to remember that although these cars are unique and even exotic in the USA, they were built by Toyota to be driven. They were never intended to be play toys or show cars. The good people of Japan, Australia, Europe, the Middle East, and elsewhere drove them daily all the time. That's what they're for.

Having and driving an imported Landcruiser that's 25+ years old isn't really any different than having and driving any other car that's 25+ years old. Some are in good shape, some are worn out, but they're all going to need work sometimes.


The details of this are: Not all counties in Colorado require emissions testing, but if you're in a place that does (roughly from Fort Collins to Pueblo) it's a two-step process for imported diesels. Step one is an inspection, to confirm that the vehicle has it's original motor and all original emissions equipment. This is done at a single facility in Denver. Appointment required. Step two is an actual emissions test (i.e. tailpipe sniff) to confirm that the emissions aren't excessive. It's just a simple opacity test, so if your diesel is anywhere near properly tuned, it's no problem to pass.

Southern France is also good hunting.

This spec also came LHD in a very few countries in Europe. I've seen them in Switzerland and Belgium. That's what mine is.

True. I'm not sure my wife gets it. lol...

Awesome, thanks for your input

 

[80Cruiser80]

Very good write up.

Here in New Zealand (probably similar 80's to AUS, maybe fetch a higher price there as well), we have a lot of JDM imported 80's - I just picked up a '96 HDJ81, 1HDFT, twin airbag, ABS that was imported into NZ in the early 2000's, and factored into my "purchase price" a professional fuel pump rebuild, injector replace, valve clearances, water pump, cambelt and all general servicing to get it up to spec. At around 300000kms (or 190000miles) the fuel pumps typically need a rebuild, which you've covered in your write up anyway. Swivel hub rebuild is also on the list to be done on my 80 but can be hit and miss if they need it. I'm also replacing the front rotors, calipers and soft brake lines. Install EGT and Coolant gauges. All up I'm probably looking at $50k NZD (or $30k USD) roughly for purchase + extensive baseline as above (that's paying for the labor however).

Most NZ 80's seem to have minimal rust which is a bonus, however finding one with full service history is very hard. I'm still amazed at how well the 80 drives being almost 30 years old, and the build quality is simply unmatched IMO.

A good source for quality non-OEM parts would be Terrain Tamer (AUS) which are Japanese manufactured parts and sell almost everything you'd need (The T/T swivel hub rebuild kit for example has KOYO bearings).

 

[duece71]

Great write up. I bought mine from a fairly well known JDM importer in Richmond VA (accused of some shady dealings). A few other things…
Sales tax will be collected in the state where the vehicle is titled and registered.
Ohio was $2200 in tax.
I second the notion on talking to insurance….I mentioned to NCM I would be doing some “light wheeling” and the phone went click. Ha ha.
Be sure to get detailed on the insurance with a person on the phone, decide on declared value or a set number. I went with State Farm as well and got them to insure for $22k. Not what I paid for the vehicle but insurance sucks all around anyways. Insurance isn’t too bad, the JDM VIN will cause issues.
I have attempted a lot of the maintenance myself after a complete financial shellacking by a local Toyota dealership on a new suspension install. I didn’t have the tools or equipment at the time but it forced me to learn how to do a lot of maintenance myself.
A person doesn’t have to be a diesel mechanic to work on diesel engines, plenty of resources out there.
My truck came with ALL of the FSMs which was really nice. I printed off a copy of the transmission (A442) FSM from here on Mud.
Parts so far have been plentiful but research is key. The 1990 was the very first HDJ81 in Japan so some parts are different even from 1992 and onwards.
RHD isn’t a big issue, I get a lot of looks, a few smiles and thumbs up. I have driven backwards through a few drive through places (ATMs, Starbucks )
I have a late ‘80s/early ‘90s house so my 2 car garage is pretty small which doesn’t allow for lifts or roof racks unless I want to keep the truck outside (a big fat nope)
There is a guy local to me (Bussey’s garage), he is also here on Mud and I can take the truck to if I am in over my head on any maintenance or need project advise.
If the truck is going to be used in a more northern locale…..salted roads are real in the winter. Fluid film has been great or Krown from Canada.
It’s been a great truck and while the maintenance has been challenging at times, I have enjoyed a new hobby.