Should I replace inner and outer tie rods or the steering rack? (1 Viewer)

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I just noticed this weekend that I've got a shot outer tie rod and two torn steering rack boots, and need some help deciding how to proceed. It's an 03 LX with 280k miles on the original steering rack, but with new bushings.
Here are the options I'm considering:

1) Replace just the outer tie rods and steering boots with OEM, and perform front end alignment - $180

2) Replace both inner and outer tie rods and steering boots with OEM, and perform front end alignment - $250

3) Replace steering rack at local indy shop - $1,100

My hesitation is that the rack itself has 280k miles, but the truck actually handles really well so there's nothing prompting me to replace the rack at the moment. If I can replace both tie rods and extend the life of it a few more years, I'm fine going that route. But if I'll need a rack soon, I'll just replace the outer tie rods since new racks come with the inner tie rods already installed.

Thanks for hearing out my brain dump!
 
At 280K a new rack would be nice, but is hard on the wallet.

A rack that is just marginally bad (bad gears) can be hard to diagnose. Since your TREs are bad, this makes diagnosing rack even more difficult.

You did not say anything about rack leaking at boots, which is common when rack bad.
You did not say inner TRE (AKA rack end) bad.
You did not mention wandering, play, lag or binding.

So at this point I'd just replace TREs and boots and see how it does. If careful to set TRE on rack end at same points, you can delay the alignment until you've a better idea.
 
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At 280K a new rack would be nice, but is hard on the wallet.

A rack that is just marginally bad (bad gears) can be hard to diagnose. Since your TREs are bad, this makes diagnosing rack even more difficult.

You did not say anything about rack leaking at boots, which is common when rack bad.
You did not say inner TRE (AKA rack end) bad.
You did not mention wondering, play, lag or binding.

So at this point I'd just replace TREs and boots and see how it does. If careful to set TRE on rack end at same points, you can delay the alignment until you've a better idea.
Thanks - the rack isn't leaking at the boots per se, but the boots are wet. Maybe a few drops, but nothing I can tell from the PS reservoir. I have no idea of the state of the inner TRE, but can only imagine its the original and has a good bit of play. The wandering feeling was definitely present at first, but new rack bushings and front sway bar bushings tightened everything up pretty nicely. Just a slight bit of play in the steering wheel with no lagging or binding.
 
Since not wandering and only leaking a few drops. I'd add 1.33 oz of AT-205 Reseal to steering reservoir. Drive for 5 hours over days/weeks or all at once. If leak does not stop, replace rack.
 
Steering wheel play could also indicate a worn upper steering shaft. I initially thought my play was in the rack so I replaced that and outer TREs which helped a bit but not completely. After replacing the upper shaft everything is tight as a drum.

Diagnosis is easy, see a complete write up here: How To: Replace your own Upper Steering Column Shaft
I *think* the LX has a different steering shaft assembly since it has VGRS. The steering snap rings got replaced as part of a recall.
 
2) Replace both inner and outer tie rods and steering boots with OEM, and perform front end alignment - $250
Where are you getting OEM parts for that price? When I checked, it was about double that. Aftermarket, obviously much cheaper.
 
I *think* the LX has a different steering shaft assembly since it has VGRS. The steering snap rings got replaced as part of a recall.
Yea, it defininitely has a different shaft than a non-VGRS truck, but the rotational play comes not from the snap rings but the press-fit slip joint that’s meant to collapse during an impact. This hexagonal joint can loosen over time especially if the steering wheel is turned when the engine isn’t running. If there’s play you can easily feel it with your finger while jiggling the steering wheel.

Other threads in other forums have suggested tack-welding the joint but I opted to replace it altogether.

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