Should I Hold Out for 06-07? (1 Viewer)

[Kabanstva]

The thing is I've read a few different posts where people have replaced practically every bit of rubber and still had low speed harshness. I'm a bit skeptical about how much all of it can do, particularly for the boominess.. though I was thinking about asking everyone what the highest yield bushings are to replace.

I just did my sway bars/end links. What other rubber is there? There's the actuator bushings (two? what's the third?), then the control arm bushings, then a bunch of body bushings (are these the same things that are changed when people do a body lift?), then engine/transmission mounts (though I'd imagine those are far less relevant)..

Like I said I probably spent close to or over $10k (parts alone) to do what you’re describing and with a full suspension overhaul the difference was minimal.

 

[NE Snowman]

There was a post in not too long ago where someone had all their body rubbers replace, looked fine on the truck but once they pulled them off they were rock hard and smaller than the replacements. Rubber has a lifespan even with good climate it’s got 2,000lbs sitting on it.

 

[Kabanstva]

Upper cushion, lower cushion, lower shock bushing. Qty 12 total

Upper control arm bushing (qty 4).
Upper ball joint x2

Lower control arm bushings (qty 4, two of which live in the frame)

Lower ball joint x2

Sway bar - 2 for the bar, 2 for the links. Front and rear?

Rear control arms qty 8 for upper and lower.

Panhard bar, qty 2

Steering rack qty 2

Front diff qty 3 bushings, qty 2 cushions.

Engine mount qty 2

Trans mount qty 1?

That's something like 50+ wear joints of the top of my head. I've never seen anyone do more than half of those on here. It's important to avoid poly if reduced harshness is the goal.

Nah man engine mounts and trans mounts would not equate to the cabin sensation we are describing. I come from a long background of these older lexus. We’ve been messing around with old SC, 2GS, older snd newer LS for the last twenty years. Changed tranny and engine mounts many times but not for this reason. It was to remove play in the drivetrain when shifting or driving.

I do have a brand new steering rack that I bought as a spare but I won’t be installing that until necessary as my current one is low miles and zero signs of needing work.

 

[Kabanstva]

There was a post in not too long ago where someone had all their body rubbers replace, looked fine on the truck but once they pulled them off they were rock hard and smaller than the replacements. Rubber has a lifespan even with good climate it’s got 2,000lbs sitting on it.

Did the new mounts make a noticeable difference? Can you find the post?

 

[suprarx7nut]

The only “bushings” I haven’t changed are the body mounts on my car. Every other bushing was changed two years ago when we removed AHC. I bought brand new OEM front lower control arms, blackhawk front upper arms, trail tailor upper and lower rear arms, I have Timbren bumpstops front and rear, icon stage 4 adjustable shocks all around, all new sway bar end links (extended trail tailor), Deltavs rear panhard bar drop bracket. Maybe I’m missing something but there’s kit a single old bushing on my car besides the body mounts which look very healthy (it didn’t live in a hot climate that dry rots plastics and rubber…I know I have several cars I bought from California, Texas, and Nevada). I don’t know if I agree with you man. Changing out all the suspension didn’t really make that much of a difference.

Those TT control arms - they've got Johnny Joints and poly bushings right? Those are used in those parts to increase firmness and articulation at the expense of comfort so I'd expect some added harshness with those.

Those Icon shocks - they implement a bushing delete and use a *bearing* in place of the lower bushing, right? That's going to increase harshness.

All that said, I agree that the non-AHC 100 series isn't plush. That's kinda my point. AHC 100 series is (or can be, assuming you have healthy components) quite supple. My 99 with a bunch of fresh rubber was more harsh than my AHC LX with similar-ish miles and all original rubber.

Like I said I probably spent close to or over $10k (parts alone) to do what you’re describing and with a full suspension overhaul the difference was minimal.

But you spent $$ on harshness-adding components. I'm sure it's possible to use poly bushings and shock bearings and get a comfortable-ish ride, but you're going to have to overcome the added harshness of those components somehow.

There's a reason every OEM car has rubber bushings everywhere and [to my knowledge] *never* uses shock bearings, Johnny joints or poly bushings with the exception being the track-only variants of supercars. For everything but a racecar, rubber bushing is the way to go, IMO.

 

[Kabanstva]

Those TT control arms - they've got Johnny Joints and poly bushings right? Those are used in those parts to increase firmness and articulation at the expense of comfort so I'd expect some added harshness with those.

Those Icon shocks - they implement a bushing delete and use a *bearing* in place of the lower bushing, right? That's going to increase harshness.

All that said, I agree that the non-AHC 100 series isn't plush. That's kinda my point. AHC 100 series is (or can be, assuming you have healthy components) quite supple. My 99 with a bunch of fresh rubber was more harsh than my AHC LX with similar-ish miles and all original rubber.


But you spent $$ on harshness-adding components. I'm sure it's possible to use poly bushings and shock bearings and get a comfortable-ish ride, but you're going to have to overcome the added harshness of those components somehow.

There's a reason every OEM car has rubber bushings everywhere and [to my knowledge] *never* uses shock bearings, Johnny joints or poly bushings with the exception being the track-only variants of supercars. For everything but a racecar, rubber bushing is the way to go, IMO.

I think you’re missing the point. I’ve been in cars with solid engine mounts, completely slammed, 25 series tires, with poly bushings all around and they do not have this jarring cabin vibrations/sensation. The rubber bushing are just masking tape for what I believe is average interior build quality.

How does a GT3RS with seemingly no suspension travel have a nicer ride? Yeah it bounces around all over the place but you don’t get those creaks and squeaks everywhere in the dash, center console, etc. like you do with every single 100 I’ve driven, stock suspension or not.

Looks like Toyota really focused on the drivetrain and longevity of these cars but half assed the rust treatment and the interiors/sound systems are nothing to brag about for what these vehicles were selling for.

 

[Kabanstva]

My 80 series with almost 300k miles doesn’t even have this sensation. My old 01 ES300 interior is solid as a rock compared to a 100 series. If you push in the dash or door panels, zero squeaks or movement. It’s actually scary how solid those are built. The 100 series cabin creaks every single panel you try to put a little pressure on. Next time you sit behind the wheel of the Lx give the plastic panel under the steering wheel a good tap and listen to how flimsy and rattly it is. I wish it wasn’t that way but it is. I spent a good amount of time sound deadening my car and it def made a difference but I wish I didn’t have to do that to begin with.

 

[suprarx7nut]

I think you’re missing the point. I’ve been in cars with solid engine mounts, completely slammed, 25 series tires, with poly bushings all around and they do not have this jarring cabin vibrations/sensation. The rubber bushing are just masking tape for what I believe is average interior build quality.

How does a GT3RS with seemingly no suspension travel have a nicer ride? Yeah it bounces around all over the place but you don’t get those creaks and squeaks everywhere in the dash, center console, etc. like you do with every single 100 I’ve driven, stock suspension or not.

Looks like Toyota really focused on the drivetrain and longevity of these cars but half assed the rust treatment and the interiors/sound systems are nothing to brag about for what these vehicles were selling for.

I agree the interior build quality of a Porsche, Mercedes, Tesla (model S and x), bmw, Lexus LS, and a bunch of others is better than a 100 series. No doubt!

That would be the Noise portion of nvh, I believe.

The V and H can be addressed pretty well with rubber.

 

[Coin]

Like I said I probably spent close to or over $10k (parts alone) to do what you’re describing and with a full suspension overhaul the difference was minimal.

I’m not why your difference was minimal. I’ve replaced every bushing with oem rubber except body mounts, and installed new springs and globes. It made a HUGE difference to comfort and quietness. The ride is not jarring in the least. I do think body mounts will make a sizable difference in reducing vibration and small jolts.

Now are there a few rattles or squeeks, a coulple. However, it has 300k+ miles and I’m working on adding foam padding to the problem areas to make it as quiet as possible.

 

[yj668]

Like when you hit a hard crease in the road the dash and alot of other panels, probably majority of the cabin structure just doesn’t feel that solid. It’s no different than my 06 Sienna that I paid $4,000 for lol.

I have a Sienna 2nd gen and Araco built 2000 LX (garaged mall crawler). I can say they ride very differently and the panels are fitted to tight tolerances at every detail with the Araco LX. From frame to body to the plastic mounted pieces it was built right and there isn’t a vibration problem apart from a short occasional mild resonance from the bell housing just as it passes 70MPH point with hard acceleration, and I’ve even experienced this on a dealership loaner 2021 GX 460 that has 8000+ miles on the odometer.

It feels nothing like a non J VIN yota or the Sienna built out of a parts bin from globally sourced parts giving resonating vibrations right from the moment you open its door and get seated and close it before talking about how it rides.

 

[Rhetoric]

My 80 series with almost 300k miles doesn’t even have this sensation. My old 01 ES300 interior is solid as a rock compared to a 100 series. If you push in the dash or door panels, zero squeaks or movement. It’s actually scary how solid those are built. The 100 series cabin creaks every single panel you try to put a little pressure on. Next time you sit behind the wheel of the Lx give the plastic panel under the steering wheel a good tap and listen to how flimsy and rattly it is. I wish it wasn’t that way but it is. I spent a good amount of time sound deadening my car and it def made a difference but I wish I didn’t have to do that to begin with.

Sell it to someone that doesn’t care? My 07 LX with 250k has a couple rattles and creaks but nothing like the German landfill stuff I owned prior.

Lots of folks offering up their thoughts and you come crashing down on every one. It’s an old truck designed on Windows 95 computers.

 

[Kabanstva]

Sell it to someone that doesn’t care? My 07 LX with 250k has a couple rattles and creaks but nothing like the German landfill stuff I owned prior.

Lots of folks offering up their thoughts and you come crashing down on every one. It’s an old truck designed on Windows 95 computers.

I simply made a point that these vehicles are not the “best riding and driving” machines as some people on here make them out to be. Period. And if you read my posts, I said it doesn’t even bother me. I haul some much gear in my car these days that I have a million things rattling nonstop which completely overpowers the noise of the vehicles cheap interior rattling and creaking.

 

[Kabanstva]

I have a Sienna 2nd gen and Araco built 2000 LX (garaged mall crawler). I can say they ride very differently and the panels are fitted to tight tolerances at every detail with the Araco LX. From frame to body to the plastic mounted pieces it was built right and there isn’t a vibration problem apart from a short occasional mild resonance from the bell housing just as it passes 70MPH point with hard acceleration, and I’ve even experienced this on a dealership loaner 2021 GX 460 that has 8000+ miles on the odometer.

It feels nothing like a non J VIN yota or the Sienna built out of a parts bin from globally sourced parts giving resonating vibrations right from the moment you open its door and get seated and close it before talking about how it rides.

I don’t buy that for one second. My boss has an Araco built 100. 03-04 I forgot what year. Driven it many times and it’s a bigger rattle trap than my LX by ten times. He even said his 97 4Runner interior feels more solid and well put together. Araco vs non Araco, Makes no difference in a 100 from my experience.

 

[suprarx7nut]

I simply made a point that these vehicles are not the “best riding and driving” machines as some people on here make them out to be. Period. And if you read my posts, I said it doesn’t even bother me. I haul some much gear in my car these days that I have a million things rattling nonstop which completely overpowers the noise of the vehicles cheap interior rattling and creaking.

Mis quote! I've never owned anything German, landfill or not, haha

 

[Kabanstva]

Mis quote! I've never owned anything German, landfill or not, haha

I know bro I couldn’t figure out how to change the post once I already made it haha. Again I’m not trying to s*** on these cars like some people assumed but I’ll never go out and say it’s some super luxury, dead silent, driving vehicle. I’ve been in 5+ different 100s and they’re all similar give or take. I doubt someone has a 100 that will blow my socks off and make me take my words back.

 

[TrichoCruiser]

Interested to hear OP update. I specifically sought out ‘07 LC for VVTI, safety, AHC, comfort/sport ride control.

Factory nav, Cassette deck and cd changer are definitely in the way. Installed a GROM for CarPlay, Owl Expeditions RAM mount in the cassette deck, and GMRS in the cd changer slot.

That said I can’t wait to buy a low mileage ‘21 in the early 2030s!

I’m in the process of buying an ‘03. Based on everyone’s feedback I decided ‘03+ would suit my needs. Once money changes hands this week and it’s official, I’ll post pics for the group. Very grateful for everyone’s help!

 

[geo5]

Perspectives right?! Compared to my previous tacomas and tundras, my 100 is incredibly quiet and smooth riding on interstate and MT washboard.
The doors on my 100 make the most satisfying and solid ‘thunk’ sound when closing.
I haven’t had the pleasure of driving a true luxury vehicle, maybe a g wagon someday?but the LC with AHC is, for me, so far, the best riding truck ever.

 

[novamarc]

Perspectives right?! Compared to my previous tacomas and tundras, my 100 is incredibly quiet and smooth riding on interstate and MT washboard.
The doors on my 100 make the most satisfying and solid ‘thunk’ sound when closing.
I haven’t had the pleasure of driving a true luxury vehicle, maybe a g wagon someday?but the LC with AHC is, for me, so far, the best riding truck ever.

I’ll second this in a major way, coming from a brand new 2020 Tacoma TRD Offroad that had more wind noise than a jet ski, and dash rattle within a year, and the worst windows down buffeting I’ve ever experienced, my 06 LX470 with close to 180k miles might as well be a rolls Royce.

 

[suprarx7nut]

Perspectives right?! Compared to my previous tacomas and tundras, my 100 is incredibly quiet and smooth riding on interstate and MT washboard.
The doors on my 100 make the most satisfying and solid ‘thunk’ sound when closing.
I haven’t had the pleasure of driving a true luxury vehicle, maybe a g wagon someday?but the LC with AHC is, for me, so far, the best riding truck ever.

I’ll second this in a major way, coming from a brand new 2020 Tacoma TRD Offroad that had more wind noise than a jet ski, and dash rattle within a year, and the worst windows down buffeting I’ve ever experienced, my 06 LX470 with close to 180k miles might as well be a rolls Royce.

For a body on frame vehicle it's pretty darn impressive. For a 15 year old body on frame it's really, really good. For a body on frame, 15 year old vehicle with relatively low maintenance costs and an MSRP way below $100k? Exceptional value if you want to cruise in comfort and venture off pavement every now and then.

I'd love to round up a G65 and off-road it. That felt like a doable stretch goal for the mid 2020's a few years ago, but in 2021 the depreciation curve stopped dead in its tracks and turned into an appreciation curve, haha. The LX will do just fine until a V12 triple locked option falls into my price range...

 

[usedname]

Upper cushion, lower cushion, lower shock bushing. Qty 12 total

Upper control arm bushing (qty 4).
Upper ball joint x2

Lower control arm bushings (qty 4, two of which live in the frame)

Lower ball joint x2

Sway bar - 2 for the bar, 2 for the links. Front and rear?

Rear control arms qty 8 for upper and lower.

Panhard bar, qty 2

Steering rack qty 2

Front diff qty 3 bushings, qty 2 cushions.

Engine mount qty 2

Trans mount qty 1?

That's something like 50+ wear joints of the top of my head. I've never seen anyone do more than half of those on here. It's important to avoid poly if reduced harshness is the goal.

Thanks. Now can you put them in order of highest to lowest yield for NVH?