Shop w/ tool to activate ABS for Brake Bleed

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Feb 22, 2007
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Location
Germantown MD
I recently replaced all 4 calipers and soft brake lines on my '95 and last night I pumped about 2 gallons of brake fluid through the system.

End result is I still have soft, spongy brakes. Brake feel was solid prior to overhaul so I think I still have air somewhere in my lines.

Reading through the 80 series section there is a suggestion that sometimes air may find its way into the ABS system and it should be activated with an SST during the bleed procedure.

I just called my local dealer and they don't even have the tool. Does anyone know of a shop or dealer locally that is good with brakes and has this tool?

I really don't want to pay for a brake bleed and have the brakes come back still feeling spongy and soft.

TIA
 
I recently replaced all 4 calipers and soft brake lines on my '95 and last night I pumped about 2 gallons of brake fluid through the system.

End result is I still have soft, spongy brakes. Brake feel was solid prior to overhaul so I think I still have air somewhere in my lines.

Reading through the 80 series section there is a suggestion that sometimes air may find its way into the ABS system and it should be activated with an SST during the bleed procedure.

I just called my local dealer and they don't even have the tool. Does anyone know of a shop or dealer locally that is good with brakes and has this tool?

I really don't want to pay for a brake bleed and have the brakes come back still feeling spongy and soft.

TIA

I have never heard of such a thing and if the dealer does not have one I would question the existence of such a SST. I would take the truck to a shop with a vacuum brake bleeder or purchase one yourself. You will need a air compressor to run one so just take it to a shop if you don't have one. This is what I am talking about. MityVac MV6835 MV6830 and MV6832 Brake Bleeder and Refill Kit
 
2nd that Colangut
I have not used one but a buddy has one sead it's grate and 1\3 the cost.

Chris
 
There is somewhat of a controversy in the 80 forum as to whether the SST is actually needed or not.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/341083-another-brake-job.html

When speaking with the shop foreman at my local dealer (Toyota in Gaithersburg) over the phone, he stated that you can usually get by without the SST and that they didn't have one. Cost for bleeding brakes was $170.

What I ended up doing this evening was driving the truck to a gravel road and engaged the ABS a bunch of times. I came back home and bleed the system with my Motive Powerbleeder just like the one Colangut posted. Same one I used previously to bleed the system.

The pedal firmness felt better but I don't know if it is from engaging the ABS or getting the pads up to the correct operating temps.....or even the good ole placebo effect.

Right now I feel it is 90% there, I still have some things I need to check into such as LSPV, pedal freeplay, and making sure my wheel bearings are preloaded correctly.

It definitely feels better when stopping now. It doesn't want to jump over into the other lane due to sticky calipers like before.
 
Are you sure that you got the Motive bleeder sealed up tight against the master? Did it leak at all when you were power bleeding? With a Toyota master it can be a little tricky to get it to seal if you have not done it before.

I am not familiar with the FJ80 but some cars have a brake proportioning valve that has to be held open to bleed the brakes.
 
Are you sure that you got the Motive bleeder sealed up tight against the master? Did it leak at all when you were power bleeding? With a Toyota master it can be a little tricky to get it to seal if you have not done it before.

I am not familiar with the FJ80 but some cars have a brake proportioning valve that has to be held open to bleed the brakes.

Yes there is a load level sensing valve that supposedly varies the breaking forces between front and rear axles according to ride height. This also gets bled.

I did ensure the top of the powerbleeder was sealed up nicely. I made that mistake during the first bleed and got brake fluid everywhere.

I repacked and tightened up my front wheel bearings tonight but that didn't make a difference. I will try to use the powerbleeder and have someone pressing on the brake pedal to see if I can create more flow through the system and try and get the stubborn bubbles to flow out.

After that I may ask one of you if I can swing by and use a large compressor to try the suction bleeder posted earlier. I also have one of those but my little pancake compressor can't keep up.

Braking power is there. Much better than before, it's just the pedal feel isn't 100%.
 
Do you have a FSM? Have you reviewed the specs for the brake pedal? I am going from memory here but with the engine running the pedal should go down slightly after it "stops" when you press it.

Also, did you follow the right order when you bled them? PR,DR,PF,DF and LSPV

When I rebuilt all my calipers last year I had to bleed the MC to get a good flow.

Also, I have read that some folks said theirs felt a little squishy for a couple days and then firmed up. That wasn't my experience mine went down really far on the first press but firmed up after that.

I will be around on Sunday if you want to swing by. You can drive mine and see how yours compares.

Jon
 

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