- Thread starter
- #2,561
front is linked, it's 3 link but it doesn't attach to the belly pan.
I really like the 4 linked rear.
trust everything Tom Woods says.... I'm sure they've forgotten more than I'll ever know. (disclaimer, I loathe Pirate) But even if I didn't, the general rule is if it's on the internet - verify it. I haven't read the article you mention, so no opinion on it. But with all that said.
Specs:
19 1/2" long
22* at rest
rear, vertical travel is 10" and 12" on the front.
I've ramped it, it's scored better then perfect.
I have about 2500 miles on it since I built it - I drive it on the freeway at 70 mph to go wheeling, (yes, on 38" bias ply swampers) and the only thing I could complain about is the 7 mpg.... with a 16 gallon tank that's about 120 miles before dry.
22* does work - but your rear u-joint needs to be perfectly aligned (ignore the 1 degree plus or minus, it will vibrate).
It works really well, there are people here who have driven it and many who I have wheeled with... the only complaints I've had about it is the peanut gallery on the internet... you know, the armchair wheelers.
You wanted advice, so here's my 2cents. Pay attention to instant center. When I nail the throttle there is just a bit of separation on the rear - which, in 4x4ing, is perfect (not so much for drag racing, but they do everything on flat ground)... Instant center is the imaginary point where your 4 link suspension meets - or said another way, the point at where the torque lifts the vehicle. If you put it in front of the bumper, the rear will pull into the body (squatting) which effectively loses you traction. On the other hand, if you move that point too far back, you'll have all the traction of an unloaded pickup on ice (because you're shifting weight to the front wheels). With that said, it's nice to climb steep hills and know that nailing the throttle isn't going to endo you down the hill. Mine is right at the center of the flywheel.
I spent plenty of time figuring out how to reduce things hanging under the vehicle. The lower links on the rear, for example, are parallel to the ground (which puts more stress on the upper links). The other thing the lower link does (in this configuration) is reduce rotation at the u-joint.
The other thing I've done is put a sway bar only on the rear, and only the type that ties the lower links together (came off a superduty). It certainly isn't a road course warrior, but it drives at 70 just fine and doesn't affect travel (the bar is 7/8" IIRC).
I really like the 4 linked rear.
trust everything Tom Woods says.... I'm sure they've forgotten more than I'll ever know. (disclaimer, I loathe Pirate) But even if I didn't, the general rule is if it's on the internet - verify it. I haven't read the article you mention, so no opinion on it. But with all that said.
Specs:
19 1/2" long
22* at rest
rear, vertical travel is 10" and 12" on the front.
I've ramped it, it's scored better then perfect.
I have about 2500 miles on it since I built it - I drive it on the freeway at 70 mph to go wheeling, (yes, on 38" bias ply swampers) and the only thing I could complain about is the 7 mpg.... with a 16 gallon tank that's about 120 miles before dry.
22* does work - but your rear u-joint needs to be perfectly aligned (ignore the 1 degree plus or minus, it will vibrate).
It works really well, there are people here who have driven it and many who I have wheeled with... the only complaints I've had about it is the peanut gallery on the internet... you know, the armchair wheelers.
You wanted advice, so here's my 2cents. Pay attention to instant center. When I nail the throttle there is just a bit of separation on the rear - which, in 4x4ing, is perfect (not so much for drag racing, but they do everything on flat ground)... Instant center is the imaginary point where your 4 link suspension meets - or said another way, the point at where the torque lifts the vehicle. If you put it in front of the bumper, the rear will pull into the body (squatting) which effectively loses you traction. On the other hand, if you move that point too far back, you'll have all the traction of an unloaded pickup on ice (because you're shifting weight to the front wheels). With that said, it's nice to climb steep hills and know that nailing the throttle isn't going to endo you down the hill. Mine is right at the center of the flywheel.
I spent plenty of time figuring out how to reduce things hanging under the vehicle. The lower links on the rear, for example, are parallel to the ground (which puts more stress on the upper links). The other thing the lower link does (in this configuration) is reduce rotation at the u-joint.
The other thing I've done is put a sway bar only on the rear, and only the type that ties the lower links together (came off a superduty). It certainly isn't a road course warrior, but it drives at 70 just fine and doesn't affect travel (the bar is 7/8" IIRC).
