Builds Shipwreck (6 Viewers)

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Ever since I sealed the floor, it's been cold in the '40.... time to figure out the problem - that starts with understanding the Vortec water pump
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and the aha - that bi-pass I need to either redirect that hose (as a bypass again) or simply block it then draw the coolant from another, hotter source. Now to fix.
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mark it done. First, a heat control device
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so I plugged the line on the passenger side - it will get a better-looking solution later, but for now, this will work

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what a mess, of the 4 gallons I started with, I have 3 left. I took the Evans out. When I built the '40, everyone was so concerned about overheating. I've driven this thing off-road in 100* weather and never got above 210*.... The down side of Evans is if there is ever a leak - ever try to find coolant at your local parts store? It's going into the Corvette, and now we have 'normal' coolant in the '40
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I re-ran some sensors. The driver's side tap is for pipe-thread sensors... so I blocked it, then put the temp sensors in different locations.
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And it works very, very well. The heater itself works like a bypass from the pump so it warms up inside very quickly. I still have the 2nd heater for my '40, but I can't imagine I'll ever need it.... once I resolve the fuel situation (get the tank out of the inside), then we'll see - having extra heat since my fun is snow wheeling isn't a bad thing
 
on with the fix-its.
first on the list was adjust the clutch.... so I put it on the lift (naturally)
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then did a full inspection and lube

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these.... not sure I'm a fan.
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back to old-fashion
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interesting stuff I'm testing. Basically it's a spray on wax with lube in it as well... I'm hoping it does a nice job of keeping the tin worm at bay.... we will see
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so I soldered a pig tail on
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hopefully things will stay together
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dang, 4 1/2 years since I started on this thing.... lots of nevers accomplished. Never 60 mph, Never stay on its wheels, Never finish it, Never keep it, Never good offroad, Instant center doesn't matter, My favorite is Stupidest build ever but close second is 'boring'.... never listen to the trolls, but if you do pay close attention so you can continually rub their face in their own poo. My own rule is never listen to the ones who claim to be experts. Experts never think they're experts.
 
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I came up with a good excuse to buy a aluminum mig gun for my miller welder
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nice box, everything there. a caution, there are two prices, one with the switch you need, one without. This came with the switch
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my miller 180 - what a great machine, does everything I need, not too big to do sheet metal, not to small to be unable to weld a car trailer
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the aforementioned switch
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installs in that blank spot with the sticker
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wiring diagram inside - this gets updated
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to this
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maybe I should blow this out.... once every 10 years.... whether it needs it or not
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I love that they have that yellow tag there that says "these are the wires you need to install the switch in"
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I'd call it fool proof, but I got them.....
note the switch itself doesn't mark on or off? 100% chance I'd get it wrong and sure enough
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and a weld
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and another
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review
it's really easy to use, and kind of easy to jam up. I like how well they thought out the documenting for the install, I wish they'd spent as much time on the wire feed. I've already eaten 2 tips (fused the wire) and had to pull the gun apart once to unspring the wire. Add to that that the rollers don't come far enough apart and it could have been better. That said, I did learn you can pull the drive wheels out with the gun intact and (once) get the springed wire out*


*what happens is the wire fuses to the tip because it was either going too fast or too slow, that stops the very soft wire dead.. the motor doesn't stop so the wire coils in front of the liner that goes to the tip.... with that said, even the brief bit I used it, I started to get the hang of it so I hope that jamming is more a newb thing then anything else
 
I'm upgrading, I hope, to radial tires... ever buy something from a company with a lot of good, but some really terrible reviews? If it works, the tires are 50% cheaper then what it costs locally.... crossing fingers thankfully, the payment method is one where if it looks wrong I can quickly and easily get my money back... but still....

and that was quick, they cancelled the order. ah well.
 
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How much stick out do you have on the spool gun? I've found that with aluminum, I create the best puddle (and fusion) with a consistent 1" of wire from the tip of the gun.
Fluid film is awesome, I use it on the frames of all our trucks. I go the roll on route.
 
I'm barely adequate at aluminum welding, but the instructions/video say 1" so that's what I've been doing.

I need to buy cases of it - especially since they've been salting the roads more. Where do you get roll on?
On the welding, remember with aluminum that once you have a puddle, you have fusion (as long as you have enough amps running through the material). It's more like playing with icing than it's like what we normally think of as welding.
 
On the welding, remember with aluminum that once you have a puddle, you have fusion (as long as you have enough amps running through the material). It's more like playing with icing than it's like what we normally think of as welding.

I have started playing with my new machine - inverter machines do make a lot of difference. I've welded motorcycle frames (CRF frames), my welds have held up just fine, it's just not as pretty as I like. The advice is good, I liken it to soldering, but the frosting thing makes sense too.

thanks for the link
 
I bought the welder to weld these stanchions on these spindles. Wow is it easier with a decent machine. I welded aluminum with my Miller Dynomaster HF machine then by spray welding with my Miller 180. This blows them both away,
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basically I'm adapting these spindles so I can run 14" rotors and Brembo brakes on my 76 Corvette (yeah, the boring one).... in case you were curious as to what I was doing.

In other news, I'm seriously considering swapping the motor in my '40 for the 6.0 LS that I have, either that or diesel, but given how/where I wheel - gas has some advantages. If I do, I'll swap the AW5 for a NV4500 or 5600 (if I can find one).... but that's for next winter, I need to get the Corvette done then a Buick wagon.... and a Suburban done...
 
I'm thinking about one of these
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thoughts?
 
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Looks like a great deal.
 
I do so many single things that I think this will work well for me. I have 2 large-company-who-do-small-runs that if I need to do production - can get them to cut stuff out (and form) but prototyping and having the file would be a huge deal. I just put a 2010 Camaro rear suspension in a C3 Corvette, and already have several inquiries about selling the brackets I fabbed to do the swap.... that and it seems pretty solid reviews.... so I pulled the trigger - that said it's like a month before I see it....
 
I've come close to pulling the trigger on a langmuir table a few times.

Reviews I've read are all positive. Like all CNC plasma cutters, you need a good plasma cutter, so don't cheap out on that. THC would be a nice addition from what I've read, but if you use water table and get tuned in right, warpage is minimal, meaning THC is less important.

EDIT: If you haven't seen it already, read up:
Crossfire CNC plasma? $1000 - Page 4 - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum
 
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