Thats what I meant about the locks, obviously you wouldn't use that function and it would be useless on a 40 no issue unless you can get a model without that function and maybe save a few bucks.
Builds Shipwreck (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter SuperBuickGuy
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #822
I didn't see one on their site... fwiw, it's half the price of Painless and it has more functions. I agree, though, I'd like the RFID and the GMS/GPS forgetting about the rest (including the alarm)....
- Thread starter
- #823
I went with the most basic, the point about unneeded stuff is a valid one - especially since I already have a SPOT system. It will be pretty simple to hide a transponder in the vehicle and all I have to do is wire a mini-USB plug to keep the SPOT charged...
- Thread starter
- #824
and I just talked to them this morning - it is SPOT that he uses.
- Thread starter
- #825
getting closer to body-mount
header mod, take 2
some cutting and fitting
and there it is
body back on, I could attach it, but it's so much easier to paint it on my body-dolly that I'm going to wait for it to show up back on my doorstep and finish some more of the minor stuff... like the tire carrier and rear tail gate....
so the goal was 4" up travel in the front and back.... 7 1/2 up front at the moment and 2" back.... fortunately, I can' solve the back pretty easily and the front won't be so tough either... just get some 175 or 150 lb upper springs.
header mod, take 2
some cutting and fitting
and there it is
body back on, I could attach it, but it's so much easier to paint it on my body-dolly that I'm going to wait for it to show up back on my doorstep and finish some more of the minor stuff... like the tire carrier and rear tail gate....
so the goal was 4" up travel in the front and back.... 7 1/2 up front at the moment and 2" back.... fortunately, I can' solve the back pretty easily and the front won't be so tough either... just get some 175 or 150 lb upper springs.
- Thread starter
- #827
Yes
I have metal plate, a large press brake, skilz in fabrication... the entire area will be enclosed
but why do you think it's any more exposed then anywhere else? the last picture shows the mufflers tucked up and under the body. as it sits, the body would be damaged before the mufflers.
It's more vulnerable because when you are off-camber, the stuff outside the frame rails gets much closer to the ground than what's inside the framerails.
If you're enclosing the whole area in plate, it's not a big deal. FZJ80s have factory cats outside of the framerails and people build skidplates for the cats into their sliders.
If you're enclosing the whole area in plate, it's not a big deal. FZJ80s have factory cats outside of the framerails and people build skidplates for the cats into their sliders.
- Thread starter
- #829
my lord, why do you folks keep arguing?
reasons why the exhaust is where it is:
1) putting the exhaust between the rails creates a lot of heat under the vehicle and makes the vehicle (which is a summer vehicle without a/c) much more uncomfortable to ride in
2) there is no space between the rails - look at the picture... where would I run the exhaust?
3) air tank and batteries .... where would I put those if I took the space out with exhaust? on the order or problems, I'd far rather crush an exhaust then puncture an air tank or break a battery...
4) really? you think that the muffler or the cat is in danger? all of that area is above the lower frame rail by a bunch and the side of the body as well... If I hit any part of the exhaust, I'll have far more problems then a dented exhaust... but again, that's why I went to the work to make a way for the exhaust to run through the body mount.
the only real concern I have is filling the space around the exhaust and above the skid plate with snow or sand.... but then again, it's why I built the plates themselves out of 304 stainless steel.
anyway, carrying on.... yesterday was spent in helping on another project, buying another project, and mollifying the wife for that project... I think I got a tank mounted and a bit of grinding... no pictures though.
reasons why the exhaust is where it is:
1) putting the exhaust between the rails creates a lot of heat under the vehicle and makes the vehicle (which is a summer vehicle without a/c) much more uncomfortable to ride in
2) there is no space between the rails - look at the picture... where would I run the exhaust?
3) air tank and batteries .... where would I put those if I took the space out with exhaust? on the order or problems, I'd far rather crush an exhaust then puncture an air tank or break a battery...
4) really? you think that the muffler or the cat is in danger? all of that area is above the lower frame rail by a bunch and the side of the body as well... If I hit any part of the exhaust, I'll have far more problems then a dented exhaust... but again, that's why I went to the work to make a way for the exhaust to run through the body mount.
the only real concern I have is filling the space around the exhaust and above the skid plate with snow or sand.... but then again, it's why I built the plates themselves out of 304 stainless steel.
anyway, carrying on.... yesterday was spent in helping on another project, buying another project, and mollifying the wife for that project... I think I got a tank mounted and a bit of grinding... no pictures though.
No one is arguing. You asked a question, I was attempting to answer it. Doesn't matter to me where you put your exhaust!
Actually, I lied. Turn those headers upside down and run the exhaust straight up through the hood. That's clearly the best option.
Actually, I lied. Turn those headers upside down and run the exhaust straight up through the hood. That's clearly the best option.
47coeman
Love those 45's
Hey SBG
In my opinion I believe your rational is sound and a good choice for your application. Your project has turned out just great and well thought out as to the placement of the parts to make this rig off road worthy. With a little armor as you have indicated you are good to go and I would be surprised if you have any issues having fun tearing across the hills or rocks. If you like it move forward and don't look back...
In my opinion I believe your rational is sound and a good choice for your application. Your project has turned out just great and well thought out as to the placement of the parts to make this rig off road worthy. With a little armor as you have indicated you are good to go and I would be surprised if you have any issues having fun tearing across the hills or rocks. If you like it move forward and don't look back...
- Thread starter
- #832
Hmmmm.... maybe swap out the gasser for a diesel, do a center-of-the-hood dump and roll coal! then I'd be cool
I do have a 6.5 diesel in my rafters 
fwiw - I think the welderup stuff is cool, would never in my life run one of those but I still like the creativity... of course that makes me odd and still not giving a darn.
rusty_tlc
Dain Bramaged Member
Not to hi-Jack the thread, but how do you get your truck insured for anything even close to the actual value of your truck? The book value for my truck is a few thousand dollars, that's pretty much what my insurance pays if it gets stolen. I can get classic car insurance based on an appraised value, but my truck is far from a restoration quality vehicle.
My insurance company allows me to add on to my policy the cost of modifications to the vehicle. I think I get like 25 grand if its stolen. Now if they will stay true to this? I don't know, I have never had it stolen.
- Thread starter
- #835
I use Hagerty for my collector cars - car is gone, you get a check for the stated value... I know you all think I'm on drugs, but my goal as to value of this vehicle when done is ICON range. But don't fear, I'm going to beat this thing like a rented Ford before I sell it.... and that's the major problem, I'm pretty sure there's exclusions for off-road.
that said, he's what Hagerty says about a stock 1971 FJ40
Current Values
that said, he's what Hagerty says about a stock 1971 FJ40
Current Values
- #1 Concours $95,400
Condition #1 vehicles are the best in the world. The visual image is of the best vehicle, in the right colors, driving onto the lawn at the finest concours. Perfectly clean, the vehicle has been groomed down to the tire treads. Painted and chromed surfaces are mirror-like. Dust and dirt are banned, and materials used are correct and superbly fitted. The one word description for #1 vehicles is "concours." - #2 Excellent $60,000
- #3 Good $46,500
- #4 Fair$16,900
- Thread starter
- #836
$2200 per year for $150,000 guaranteed full-loss payment. 1 MV, 49 yo male, not primary or even secondary car.... I'm getting to the point where I'm going to have to get it covered because while it's apart, my homeowners covers it; but now that it's mostly in the shape of a car... it doesn't.
rusty_tlc
Dain Bramaged Member
Most of the policies I've looked at would not cover offroad use.
Base on my experience it's not to hard to get to ICON value when building a rig.
Base on my experience it's not to hard to get to ICON value when building a rig.
rusty_tlc
Dain Bramaged Member
Company name?
Travelers
Progressive and Geico did it too for me, but progressive was more expensive. And when Geico found out my truck goes offroad, they freaked and wouldn't insure me anymore. I tried to say they made a mistake and I don't take it offroad(I only wheel on legal trails or "roads", they are just poorly maintained lol) but supposedly its permanently on their record of me. Which is fine, I want nothing to do with their stupid lizard anyway.