Shims (1 Viewer)

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Crush 4

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Ok did the search thing about measuring for shims. Can’t say i aexpert on doing the measurement as I’m new to the whole 40 thing but learning a ton.
I bought the vehicle w a 4” HFS lift w shackles and no shims. The steering components are new, tire have good tread but are 10 years old, 33’s on steelies with all new Bilstein shocks. The vehicle vibrates and is skeHere are my questions:

Is there ever a scenario where you don’t need shims in the front or back?

visually, are the pinions supposed to be parallel to the ground?

do yo normally use the same size shims front to back?

what is the overall opinion of 16” wheels and tires with geolanders?

any other ideas?

Will appreciate any comments, I thinko_O
Thx
Signed,
The rookie
 
These are my experiences with shims. I have a 4 inch lift, 33/12.50 tires 1 inch extended shackles, Bilstien shocks. With my Skyjacker springs I have no shims in front and in the front you want the pinyon straight to the ground so knuckles are close to being perpendicular, that’s the caster. The front drive shaft will have a steep angle to transfer case. In the rear I’m using a 4 degree STEEl shim so that the transfer case rear output flange and rear pinyon flange angles are as close as possible (+/- 2 degrees) to being the same angle. This is to make sure that you don’t get a vibration in acceleration or during deceleration, it should feel smooth in 2wd. I’m no expert but not new to the 40 experience, bought mine in 1974 and been wheeling since.
 
These are my experiences with shims. I have a 4 inch lift, 33/12.50 tires 1 inch extended shackles, Bilstien shocks. With my Skyjacker springs I have no shims in front and in the front you want the pinyon straight to the ground so knuckles are close to being perpendicular, that’s the caster. The front drive shaft will have a steep angle to transfer case. In the rear I’m using a 4 degree STEEl shim so that the transfer case rear output flange and rear pinyon flange angles are as close as possible (+/- 2 degrees) to being the same angle. This is to make sure that you don’t get a vibration in acceleration or during deceleration, it should feel smooth in 2wd. I’m no expert but not new to the 40 experience, bought mine in 1974 and been wheeling since.
For the rear , fat end of shim faces front?
Where did you get your shims?
And it is not smooth in 2 wheel
 
@orangefj45 aka Georg is the place to get the shims.
 
You need to get solid measurements before you order shims, it's not something like tires that you can live with of they're wrong.
 
I actually made my shims, I have a mill in my garage, steel shims should be available but the angle is another question. I started with 6 degrees and cut them down to about 4 degrees. You will have to bolt up your springs with no shims and check the angle and then try and get both flanges as close to parallel to each other as possible, the rear pumpkin should be pointing upward toward transfer case. Aluminum shims are more readily available but they will deform and become loose no matter how tight you tighten them unfortunately. Vibration caused by improper pinion angle will take its toll on u-joints, transfer case bearings and rear pinyon.
 
I actually made my shims, I have a mill in my garage, steel shims should be available but the angle is another question. I started with 6 degrees and cut them down to about 4 degrees. You will have to bolt up your springs with no shims and check the angle and then try and get both flanges as close to parallel to each other as possible, the rear pumpkin should be pointing upward toward transfer case. Aluminum shims are more readily available but they will deform and become loose no matter how tight you tighten them unfortunately. Vibration caused by improper pinion angle will take its toll on u-joints, transfer case bearings and rear pinyon.

Can you send me a pic if it’s not too much trouble.
Really appreciate the feedback! I’ve got a lot to learn!
 
I just went through the process of swapping out my aluminum shims for steel. The aluminum ones were installed backwards by the previous owner. When I took them out, they were deformed and dented. I purchased new steel ones with new pins from Georg @orangefj45. Great quality shims. Would highly recommend.
 
I just went through the process of swapping out my aluminum shims for steel. The aluminum ones were installed backwards by the previous owner. When I took them out, they were deformed and dented. I purchased new steel ones with new pins from Georg @orangefj45. Great quality shims. Would highly recommend.

Out of curiosity what shim size did you use and what lift if any do you have?
Appreciate your response !
 
That's correct. See below.

1581608258684.png



1581608341116.png
1581608355070.png
 
That's correct. See below.

View attachment 2209802


View attachment 2209803 View attachment 2209804


That is very helpful I’ll call Georg today.
While I understand shims help w pinion angle in the front can they improve steering ?
 
Thanks for the mention!

Yes, we offer the billet steel shims in 2, 4, 6 and 8 degrees along with the spring center bolts. We can also supply suspension kits and lots of other parts for your cruisers.

Happy to help!

Georg @ Valley Hybrids
shop 209-475-8808
 
Very much so.



Why is positive caster desirable?
-Improved straight-line stability at speed.
-Improved vehicle handling and cornering performance.




From wikipedia: Positive caster angle... provides a degree of self-centering for the steering... This makes a vehicle easier to control and improves its directional stability.... however, excessive caster will make the steering heavier and less responsive.


 
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Very much so.



Why is positive caster desirable?
-Improved straight-line stability at speed.
-Improved vehicle handling and cornering performance.




From wikipedia: Positive caster angle... provides a degree of self-centering for the steering... This makes a vehicle easier to control and improves its directional stability.... however, excessive caster will make the steering heavier and less responsive.


U da Man!!
 
I see some confusion for the rear shims

You don't want to rotate the pinion up with a stock driveshaft ( like on the specter image)

The fat end go to the rear when you use longer shackles, ( longer shackles will rotate the pinion up and the shims are used to correct that )

Rotate the pinion up to TC only if you use a double cardan DS

This is how I install the shims I got from @orangefj45



20180616_091642.jpg
 
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