Shim under washer/flange nut on tranfer case output shafts? (1 Viewer)

[Waorani]

FSM shows a shim on both transfer case output shafts in association with the thick washer and flange nut. SOR parts breakdown shows that shim going between the thick washer and flange/emergency brake drum. These shims weren't present when I tore my transfer case down and they weren't in the rebuild kit I got.

I went ahead and ordered some and plan to put in but I'm wondering what the purpose of these shims is? I can't see that they have any function in setting any spacing or preloads and they only seem to be available in one thickness. Do they somehow help insure that the flange nut can be torqued properly?

 

[honk]

Shimming there is how you set the preload if I'm understanding your question.. Do you have an FSM?

 

[Waorani]

Yes I have the FSM and shimming to set bearing preload is pretty clearly explained - no problems there. The shims I am talking about are not the roughly 3" diameter ones used to set bearing preload - they are only a little over 1" in diameter.

The only reference to these smaller shims in the FSM is in the exploded diagrams where it shows the flange (front output) or ebrake drum (rear output), what just looks like 2 washers, then the flange nut. In SOR's diagrams it shows in same order - flange/drum, SHIM, washer, then flange nut. There's no other reference to these shims in the FSM and no table of various sizes as is always the case for other shims.

Adding further confusion is that if you put these on as shown in SOR's diagrams the shim is clearly going to be damaged against the splines of the output shafts.

My gut feeling is that these shims don't really accomplish anything. If they are not there - the flange nut will simply turn just a little bit further. However, there's got to be a logical explanation for these little shims on the output shafts. Surely somebody knows?!

 

[IDave]

We're talking part #14, right? 1968 and on, supposedly. I've never seen one and it isn't in my manuals! Hmmm.

 

[Godwin]

#140 is the shim, #14 is a washer.

 

[Waorani]

#140 is the shim, #14 is a washer.

Dang Jim - just as I was starting to respond to IDave that #14 was correct when I noticed your post. As usual, you are correct - thick washer first, then the mystery shim, then the flange nut. I don't know how many times I've looked at SOR's parts description and didn't notice the distinction between 14 and 140 - which both come up when you click on either PN.

That's actually a more logical position but I'm still curious why its there to begin with. Also, if you use one of the flange nuts that has the thick washer built on - there's no way to include the shim. So again - it must not really serve any purpose.

 

[IDave]

Yeah, I see the 14/140 button thing at SOR. Nevertheless.

MAYBE THATS WHY WE HAVE TRANSFER CASE WHINE!

None of us have the magic shim!



























Meh. Just kidding. I have no idea.

 

[65swb45]

THe shim DOES EXIST!

The shim helps to achieve the correct torque on the locknut in a particular orientation of the locknut. This would be most useful on the earlier transfer cases and differentials that used the castlenut. Often, the castlenut is not aligned with the hole in the shaft that the cotter pin goes thru when torqued to spec, and the shim would prove most beneficial here.

Ironically, you are most likely to find said mystery shims installed on later t-cases and diffs that use the crush nut..........the ones that don't need to align the nut and shaft!

Hth

Mark A.

 

[IDave]

So, if under or overtorqued to align the cotter pin hole, perhaps that would affect something significant?

 

[Waorani]

The shim helps to achieve the correct torque on the locknut in a particular orientation of the locknut.

Thanks for clearing that up. Having something to do with getting proper torque was the only possible explanation I could come up with but it just didn't make sense given my staked nut.

 

[rusty_tlc]

Mud strikes again. I have had the same question ever since I tore my T-case down the first time. Never followed through with researching it, I just keep putting the stupid shims on.

 

[FoYoChe]

My shims were copper,and I believe that they were to help seal the ends of the splines so that it's not just a washer against rough steel off the front flange and brake drum, I put them back in and used Tight on both sides and both sides of the washer to keep the oil leaks down, but if you haven't had oil leak out past the splines then don't worry about it.

 

[peesalot]

Not to achieve a different torque or preload , simply to achieve a different position when torqued for the castle nuts so the cotter pin would go in. Kinda like the last time you did tre's and said hell , I gotta tighten it a little moire to get this pin in.