Hammer45
SILVER Star
I’ll maybe go back to the beginning. It’s gonna be a long one and I’m going to need help from y’all.
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She’s Hotblooded! Kinda Build thread/I’m gonna need help to cool her down
- Thread starter Hammer45
- Start date
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That will keep you occupied cleaning until the new year. Nice!
Hammer45
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #4
Did the brakes cuz it wouldn’t stop and promptly set the driver front wheel on fire when the master cylinder locked up. Replaced that master cylinder and tore apart the inside to attempt to make it nice enough for wife to get in.
Cleaned underneath and started tearing apart the engine bay to do wires, plugs, timing, valve job, desmog (all the smog stuff was so clogged up that it was basically desmogged already), replace the leaking radiator with a Mishimoto, did the front seal that was leaking, water pump, thermostat, converted the AC to 134, new headlights, all new hoses and belts.
I meticulously took apart the dash down to metal as well as the entire cab. Reupholstered the drivers seat and spent days cleaning the carpets and using Qtips and wire brushes to clean the parts of the AC box and all dash components and changed all the bulbs.
I did the injectors, fixed the solenoid for the 4WD so it would disengage, and a thousand other things. I learned to weld and built her new bumpers from kits.
I put her back together with love and care.
I had three main leftovers to solve later:
1. Rusted roof
2. Electrical gremlin that makes it where I can’t get the check engine light to come on when I first attempt to start up and therefore it won’t start up. I get around this with a jumper on the main EFI relay every time I want to drive. I’ll get around to fixing it.
3. Occasional overheat
And this is where it gets complicated!
I replaced the thermostat again.. burped it until I got heartburn with the nose in the air, and found a couple of lines underneath that I had forgot to tighten. I have a new fan clutch that is working properly, shroud works fine though I did split it. Oh and I do have an accessory coolant temp checker. It appears to only overheat after I have lost some coolant and I suspect gotten an air pocket at the water pump or thermostat body. I loose about an inch of coolant out of the reservoir evertime I do a 30 minute drive.. Basically the radiator cap will suck it from the reservoir and keeps the radiator full and I just add coolant after each ride. I pressure tested the coolant system yesterday and crawled all over the truck with the stupid pen with no leaks found. I changed the oil and started it up for a bit to fill the filter. This morning while my wife was walking back into the garage she asks “Is that rust from your tailpipe?” See the next post for the big reveal though I’m sure you guessed it by now.
Cleaned underneath and started tearing apart the engine bay to do wires, plugs, timing, valve job, desmog (all the smog stuff was so clogged up that it was basically desmogged already), replace the leaking radiator with a Mishimoto, did the front seal that was leaking, water pump, thermostat, converted the AC to 134, new headlights, all new hoses and belts.
I meticulously took apart the dash down to metal as well as the entire cab. Reupholstered the drivers seat and spent days cleaning the carpets and using Qtips and wire brushes to clean the parts of the AC box and all dash components and changed all the bulbs.
I did the injectors, fixed the solenoid for the 4WD so it would disengage, and a thousand other things. I learned to weld and built her new bumpers from kits.
I put her back together with love and care.
I had three main leftovers to solve later:
1. Rusted roof
2. Electrical gremlin that makes it where I can’t get the check engine light to come on when I first attempt to start up and therefore it won’t start up. I get around this with a jumper on the main EFI relay every time I want to drive. I’ll get around to fixing it.
3. Occasional overheat
And this is where it gets complicated!
I replaced the thermostat again.. burped it until I got heartburn with the nose in the air, and found a couple of lines underneath that I had forgot to tighten. I have a new fan clutch that is working properly, shroud works fine though I did split it. Oh and I do have an accessory coolant temp checker. It appears to only overheat after I have lost some coolant and I suspect gotten an air pocket at the water pump or thermostat body. I loose about an inch of coolant out of the reservoir evertime I do a 30 minute drive.. Basically the radiator cap will suck it from the reservoir and keeps the radiator full and I just add coolant after each ride. I pressure tested the coolant system yesterday and crawled all over the truck with the stupid pen with no leaks found. I changed the oil and started it up for a bit to fill the filter. This morning while my wife was walking back into the garage she asks “Is that rust from your tailpipe?” See the next post for the big reveal though I’m sure you guessed it by now.
Hammer45
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #5
So back into the engine we go. The first thing I did when I got it home in 2019 was to do a compression test. All of the cylinders were within like 5% of predicted. So either it was sneaky or developed since I got it running. It still leaks at the rear main seal and at the back end of the transfer case and torque converter. So lots of reasons to take her apart. I’ve never done any of this stuff before and a head gasket and engine removal and tranny work does indeed scare me to death. But I recently retired and have more time than sense or money. I also have all of your collective wisdom that I hope to lean heavily on in the near future. I won’t be able to start disassembly until November as Colorado is calling us for the month of October.
So the open ended question, what do I need to do in preparation for this monumental effort? I really do appreciate your input. I like a good project.
Thanks guys! And more than a few very sharp gals on here too!
Hambone
If you can't handle her heat get out of the way and let her free !!
Rebuild list
Hammer45
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #9
This is the list that Chat GPT spit out. most of this is already done from my efforts a few yrs ago. I would appreciate any other tips or suggestions you might have or additions to the list.
When replacing the head gasket and rear main seal on a 1989 Toyota Land Cruiser FJ62, it's a good idea to replace or inspect several related components while the engine is apart. Here’s a comprehensive list of parts and items you may want to replace during the process:
should i go to a 2F lower engine?
Since i'll have the transmission out, should I do the H55 swap? I like a standard, but that seems like a huge deal.
She needs the suspension renewed. should i do this while she is apart? Would it be easier with the engine and tranny out?
I am totally new at this engine stuff so, i need the feedback. d
When replacing the head gasket and rear main seal on a 1989 Toyota Land Cruiser FJ62, it's a good idea to replace or inspect several related components while the engine is apart. Here’s a comprehensive list of parts and items you may want to replace during the process:
1. Head Gasket Replacement
- Head Gasket (main component being replaced)
- Cylinder Head Bolts: These are often torque-to-yield bolts and should be replaced, as they stretch when torqued.
- Valve Cover Gasket: Should be replaced when removing the valve cover.
- Intake Manifold Gasket: Since the intake manifold has to be removed to access the head.
- Exhaust Manifold Gasket: Same as the intake, the exhaust manifold needs to come off.
- Thermostat and Gasket: Good opportunity to replace since it's part of the cooling system.
- Water Pump: While you have access, this is a good time to replace the water pump.
- Timing Chain or Timing Belt: Depending on the condition, inspect and consider replacing.
- Front Engine Seals: Inspect and replace camshaft, crankshaft, or timing cover seals.
- Valve Stem Seals: These can be replaced when the head is off to ensure proper valve sealing.
- Coolant Hoses: Inspect and replace any worn or cracked hoses while the cooling system is apart.
- Coolant/Antifreeze: Drain and refill the cooling system with fresh coolant.
- Spark Plugs: Inspect and replace since the head will be accessible.
- Distributor Cap and Rotor: Inspect and replace if worn.
- PCV Valve: Replace the PCV valve for proper ventilation.
2. Rear Main Seal Replacement
- Rear Main Seal (main component being replaced)
- Flywheel or Flexplate Bolts: Inspect or replace as necessary, especially if they show signs of wear.
- Oil Pan Gasket: It might be a good idea to replace the oil pan gasket since the rear main seal often requires the removal of the oil pan.
- Transmission Input Shaft Seal: If the transmission has to be removed, this is a good opportunity to replace the input shaft seal.
- Transmission Mounts: Check for wear and replace if needed.
- Crankshaft Seal: If you're accessing the rear of the crankshaft, ensure the crankshaft seal is in good condition.
- Clutch/Flywheel Assembly (if manual transmission): While the transmission is off, inspect the clutch, pressure plate, and flywheel for wear. Replace the clutch if necessary.
- Torque Converter Seal (if automatic transmission): Good time to check the torque converter and seal if needed.
3. Other Items to Inspect or Replace
- Oil and Oil Filter: You’ll need to drain the oil during the rear main seal replacement, so it's a good time to replace it.
- Belts: Check drive belts and accessory belts (alternator, power steering, A/C, etc.) for wear.
- Timing Cover Gasket: If you’re already accessing the timing components.
- Exhaust Components: Inspect for any leaks, especially at the manifold.
- Engine Mounts: Inspect and replace if worn, as worn mounts can affect engine alignment and performance.
- Fuel Injectors/Carburetor: Depending on the condition, it might be worth inspecting or cleaning the fuel system.
- Radiator: Inspect for leaks or corrosion, and flush it if necessary.
- Vacuum Lines: Check all vacuum lines for cracks or leaks and replace as needed.
should i go to a 2F lower engine?
Since i'll have the transmission out, should I do the H55 swap? I like a standard, but that seems like a huge deal.
She needs the suspension renewed. should i do this while she is apart? Would it be easier with the engine and tranny out?
I am totally new at this engine stuff so, i need the feedback. d
You can do all that extra stuff, but IMO not necessary to do in conjunction w head work. I would pull the head, get it cleaned and checked for cracks then go from there. Do do everything you’ve listed would be a fairly expensive endeavor. Just depends on your wallet really I guess.
I don’t believe the 3FE head bolts are torque to yield, so if they’re not damaged they can be reused. Not the case for some other Toyota engines however (22r,3rz,etc)
I don’t believe the 3FE head bolts are torque to yield, so if they’re not damaged they can be reused. Not the case for some other Toyota engines however (22r,3rz,etc)
Hammer45
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #11
its leaking every fluid everywhere. so i think the engine has to come out. rear main seal is the one that throws all of that stinky oil on the floor and exhaust. tranny fluid pours out of the back of the transfer case and tranny... thanks for the tips. wallet is thin but thankfully while i still had cash flow i did a lot of this stuff. d
Mine had a metric ton of oil leaks, and have managed to get it down to just the rear main OR the trans lines up to the radiator / trans cooler without pulling the engine. Looks like you've had the timing cover off, so that's a good one to get done, along with the oil pan, side cover and the valve cover. That's really it as far as I can recall.
If you need to pull the trans, it is worth considering a 5 speed, but it gets expensive fast and there's plenty of work to get the damn thing installed. If not just rebuild the transfer case when you put it back, most likely your input seal, idler shaft and thrust bearings are ready for replacement.
Head gasket takes some time, but very doable at home. I've done it on a 2F and on a BMW M10, and neither was all that tough. Just long, a lot of parts to pull and put back. Have a good machine shop refresh the head, valves, guides, seals, etc and you should be good to go.
If you need to pull the trans, it is worth considering a 5 speed, but it gets expensive fast and there's plenty of work to get the damn thing installed. If not just rebuild the transfer case when you put it back, most likely your input seal, idler shaft and thrust bearings are ready for replacement.
Head gasket takes some time, but very doable at home. I've done it on a 2F and on a BMW M10, and neither was all that tough. Just long, a lot of parts to pull and put back. Have a good machine shop refresh the head, valves, guides, seals, etc and you should be good to go.
