hahahahaha
Sheila's evisceration and birth of an HJ62 -> Tofudebeest
- Thread starter Tofudebeest
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Have you been doing anything???
- Thread starter
- #463
Many things, none Cruiser-related. Chickens, kids, setting up my wife's new iPhone, work, being ill...
On my short, short list is the installation of my gauges and my paint job. Both should be done by my birthday (8/16).
Then before we get too deep into the Fall, I plan to down gear (4.111 to 3.73...opposite from everyone else) and MAYBE, if I am really good, I'll get to throw an Aussie Locker in my rear diff.
Gotcha, hope you're feeling better!
You're running 33's? I felt that my truck with 33's, 3.73's and H55 should have been the stock configuration for the truck
- Thread starter
- #465
No. 31"s. They're 50%, and I will replace them with 33"s or if they'll fit 35"s.
- Thread starter
- #466
Repost from Woody's accidental deletion:
I got the Bosch hand primer, box part # 2 447 010 033 (actual part number # 2 447 222 126), installed it two nights ago. Like a new motor! No more hard starts, no more hesitations, at least 25% more power. Unbelievable!
It is like getting an unexpected big check in the mail right after your wife surprises you with a morning romp in the sack.
I have been dealing with these fuel delivery-related issues for more than 6 months and never suspected the primer, because I never saw so much as one drip of fuel from it. But, clearly, it has been letting in air. I had a sinking feeling it was either my IP (from biodiesel use) or a near-dead cylinder (or at the very least badly coked injectors). With this revelation and success, I can proceed to turbo with no reservations! I will still get a compression check again though, jsut to be sure...
Death to the old primer, long live the Bosch replacement!!!
I got the Bosch hand primer, box part # 2 447 010 033 (actual part number # 2 447 222 126), installed it two nights ago. Like a new motor! No more hard starts, no more hesitations, at least 25% more power. Unbelievable!
It is like getting an unexpected big check in the mail right after your wife surprises you with a morning romp in the sack.
I have been dealing with these fuel delivery-related issues for more than 6 months and never suspected the primer, because I never saw so much as one drip of fuel from it. But, clearly, it has been letting in air. I had a sinking feeling it was either my IP (from biodiesel use) or a near-dead cylinder (or at the very least badly coked injectors). With this revelation and success, I can proceed to turbo with no reservations! I will still get a compression check again though, jsut to be sure...
Death to the old primer, long live the Bosch replacement!!!
Hi,
Where did you get the Bosch pump, and was it a direct bolt on?
my primer pump leaks like a sieve when I use it, so it is time for a replacement.
thanks,
J
- Thread starter
- #468
See this:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/diesel-tech-24-volts-systems/286177-injector-pump-rebuild-$$s.html
and
https://forum.ih8mud.com/diesel-tech-24-volts-systems/286366-installed-new-bosch-primer-pump-3b.html
and
https://forum.ih8mud.com/diesel-tech-24-volts-systems/235120-bosch-primer-pump.html
or just search "Bosch Primer Pump"
I got mine at my local Bosch Service Centrer, which is within walking distance form my office. $20, out the door. Their cost: $11.75.
Any diesel shop can get it.
Removing the old one is tricky because the space to get your wrench is there is thinner than any normal spanner wrench, you need a very thin-bodied one. I just used vice grips and grabbed the bottom part to get it off. The Bosch one has a nice long section where your 17 mm wrench can grab it, even from an oblique angle.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/diesel-tech-24-volts-systems/286177-injector-pump-rebuild-$$s.html
and
https://forum.ih8mud.com/diesel-tech-24-volts-systems/286366-installed-new-bosch-primer-pump-3b.html
and
https://forum.ih8mud.com/diesel-tech-24-volts-systems/235120-bosch-primer-pump.html
or just search "Bosch Primer Pump"
I got mine at my local Bosch Service Centrer, which is within walking distance form my office. $20, out the door. Their cost: $11.75.
Any diesel shop can get it.
Removing the old one is tricky because the space to get your wrench is there is thinner than any normal spanner wrench, you need a very thin-bodied one. I just used vice grips and grabbed the bottom part to get it off. The Bosch one has a nice long section where your 17 mm wrench can grab it, even from an oblique angle.
- Thread starter
- #470
Busy day...and night. Those gauges can be illuminated in blue, aqua, white, green, red, amber, and purple. I prefer the blue.
My glow is now a rear window defrost toggle where the 4LO button normally resides. Diggin' it.
I didn't take a picture, but I am running two oil pressure sending units and gauges; the stock one and the aftermarket one, with the senders in a T configuration.
I really like those guages
- Thread starter
- #472
My numbers:
When the motor is cool, I can rev the engine and get my oil pressure up to 95 or 100 psi, and then when hot, it maxes out around 60 or 70, At idle, it never falls below 15 and is usually dead on 20. This totally confirms that my OEM gauge is a piece of s***. Shame on Mr. Toyoda for not giving us a decent gauge to begin with.
Water temperature is never higher than 185° or 190° F.
EGTs are pretty cool, when accelerating = 800° or 900°. Cruising at 2250 rpms in 5th (~55 mph) = 670° F.
When the motor is cool, I can rev the engine and get my oil pressure up to 95 or 100 psi, and then when hot, it maxes out around 60 or 70, At idle, it never falls below 15 and is usually dead on 20. This totally confirms that my OEM gauge is a piece of s***. Shame on Mr. Toyoda for not giving us a decent gauge to begin with.
Water temperature is never higher than 185° or 190° F.
EGTs are pretty cool, when accelerating = 800° or 900°. Cruising at 2250 rpms in 5th (~55 mph) = 670° F.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #473
Glow Shift. Decent, pretty cheap.
- Thread starter
- #474
My low oil pressure switch (behind, below and to the left of the oil pressure sending unit) is leaky and I can't get to it unless I remove my oil pressure sending units and my starter.
Ouch. At least the gauges look cool and function well.
lol.. where did you hide the Fast and Furious nitrous button..
- Thread starter
- #477
Oh, that'll go where the Throttle Knob used to be.
Can you imagine a NoX in one of these? That would be funny (and dumb).
Can you imagine a NoX in one of these? That would be funny (and dumb).
I am probably going to put a nos kit in Bob..
People said a turbo 2f was a waste as well..
- Thread starter
- #479
Well, It'll cool the engine down, but the extra torque is likely to hurt your transmission.
I'll be watching, you bloody foo.
I'll be watching, you bloody foo.
- Thread starter
- #480
I am waiting to paint, based on solid advice, for two things:
A booth (enclosed "garage" tent), and a high pressure system to move in and bring the humidity to under 50%. Even with an excellent drier, ambient humidity will make the paint job MUCH harder to do considering I do not access to a professional booth with heaters and fans.
A booth (enclosed "garage" tent), and a high pressure system to move in and bring the humidity to under 50%. Even with an excellent drier, ambient humidity will make the paint job MUCH harder to do considering I do not access to a professional booth with heaters and fans.
