Sheila's evisceration and birth of an HJ62 -> Tofudebeest

[Tofudebeest]

Guess how much Specter wants for just one of these 7" bolts, USED? Go ahead, guess. Not including shipping...


































$10

 

[GLTHFJ60]

That's comical. Too bad I traded away my spare split case for a pair of birfs or else I'd give you a pair of those bolts.

There has to be someone who's parting a truck out....

 

[Tofudebeest]

Local dealership will have a new one in my hot little hands in 5 days for $5.72.

Part number was 90119-120048, replaced by 90119-12235.

 

[Tofudebeest]

That's comical. Too bad I traded away my spare split case for a pair of birfs or else I'd give you a pair of those bolts.

There has to be someone who's parting a truck out....

I appreciate the thought. I actually gave a spare (auto, from the 62) transfercase to mel lowe, with those bolts, but he used them when he installed his toybox.

 

[Tofudebeest]

TREs. Looked hard, wasn't. Advance Discount Auto carries a "5-Piece Front End Set", which is what you want, not a "Pitman Arm Puller" or "Tie Rod End Lifter". Rent for 2-3 weeks = $100. When you return it, you get all your money back.
With that kit, the job is cake.

Thank you, Deo for the extra tie rods and advice. All I had to do was pull the old set off in one piece, assemble the tie rod ends (got mine from Kurt @ Cruiser Outfitters... you want 555 brand, Japanese; they make a few in Taiwan too, which you don't want), match 'em up, measure, reclamp, reinstall. Took me 3 hours and 15 minutes, baked. Shop quote was $300. They can suck my old tierod ends. I don't even need to adjust my toe. Tracks perfectly, nice and tight. Cha Ching.

 

[fliphkd778]

Good deal, where did the hj60 originate from? I enjoy the 2f, but I'm looking for a diesel or an h55 to sweeten the truck up...

 

[Tofudebeest]

The original HJ60 was Aussie issued. The H55F was a crate tranny. I moved the powertrain over to the FJ62.

 

[Lost]

looking good.
i see you couldnt get the steering stabalizer stud all the way in. i had the same problem, and the stud broke on my first time off roading and i never put the ss back on.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

looking good.
i see you couldnt get the steering stabalizer stud all the way in. i had the same problem, and the stud broke on my first time off roading and i never put the ss back on.

I don't run one either.

 

[Spike Strip]

You might want to check you TREs for play. I put on a new set of Japan 555s and one side had some noticeable play. I had to remove the cotter and turn the screw in a full turn.

I couldn't feel it in the steering wheel, but when I had someone twist the wheel back and forth, while I put my hand on the TRE, I could feel the play.

Tightening it up improved steering.

 

[Dynosoar]

x2 I always give new TRE's/Links one full twist of the screw it makes things real nice.

Dynosoar

 

[Joe_E]

You might want to check you TREs for play. I put on a new set of Japan 555s and one side had some noticeable play. I had to remove the cotter and turn the screw in a full turn.

I couldn't feel it in the steering wheel, but when I had someone twist the wheel back and forth, while I put my hand on the TRE, I could feel the play.

Tightening it up improved steering.

"Took me 3 hours and 15 minutes, baked."

I think we'll be hearing a whole lot more than some loose nuts on this one Spike. After all, it's only the most important part of your rig as you're driving 65 down the roads....

 

[Tofudebeest]

looking good.
i see you couldnt get the steering stabalizer stud all the way in. i had the same problem, and the stud broke on my first time off roading and i never put the ss back on.

The steering stabilizer did go back on better than that. That happens to be how I left it for the picture. Each nut/cotter pin combo was tightened as much as I could before putting the cotter pins in. They're as tight as they're gonna get.

You might want to check you TREs for play. I put on a new set of Japan 555s and one side had some noticeable play. I had to remove the cotter and turn the screw in a full turn.

I couldn't feel it in the steering wheel, but when I had someone twist the wheel back and forth, while I put my hand on the TRE, I could feel the play.

Tightening it up improved steering.

No play whatsoever.

"Took me 3 hours and 15 minutes, baked."

I think we'll be hearing a whole lot more than some loose nuts on this one Spike. After all, it's only the most important part of your rig as you're driving 65 down the roads....

Trust me, I did it right. Having the extra set of tierods was the trick. I just had to assemble them with my new ends and take careful measurements cpmparing them to the old set. Pin to pin was exact, as were the number of threads showing on all four. My truck was up on big ramps, and the tires could not have wiggled more than 1 mm.

I don't think it was toed in much, but it tracks fine and there's no drift for a long, long time going down a flat (non-crowned) road. On a normally crowned road, it takes 10-15 seconds before a slight correction is needed. Even the steering wheel is perfectly straight.

I can't believe how easy a job this was, actually.

 

[beaufort-fj60]

clean your knuckles.....

 

[Tofudebeest]

Yessir! Actually, I plan on pressure washing the entire underside. I need to know where a leak or two (or three of four) are coming from.

 

[Tofudebeest]

I found a new way to jamb up a 5-speed...

Well, my kid did.

Roll the truck backwards in neutral, quickly (with no clutch) slam it into reverse, and then back into neutral. This happened while I was waiting for my kids' teacher at their school this morning (we showed up at school a few minutes early and we farted around in the warm truck instead of hanging around outside in the cold). My son asked me how the parking brake worked, so I released it and we began rolling backward...he then played with the shifter, as I indicated. I had no idea what happened until I got back in my truck to leave, and it was in 1st gear and reverse at the same time. Well, I sat in that damned parking spot for an hour, trying to figure what the hell he did.

This has happened before, but I had ignorantly removed the shift lever with the truck in gear...and when it was put back in, it was jambed up.

Anyhoo...

The easiest way to know it was truly in neutral was to try and start it. If it lurched, it was in gear. Believe it or not, with a 6-month old battery, after 6 or 8 attempts, this drained it enough so that I needed a jump. This battery was an el chapo from NAPA, and was always a bit undersized. So, I decided to end the nonsense and buy the Bad Mama Jama.

Behold, the Sears DieHard Platinum (Odyssey) Marine 31M.
At 9 1/2" High, 6 4/5" wide and 13" long, it uses every last millimeter in the space.
I could not believe how heavy it was, at 75 lbs., it is 15 pounds heavier than an Optima Blue Top.

$250. 3 years, full replacement.

Yeehaw.

 

[Tofudebeest]

Well, now that there's new paint on this thing (which will be sanded and buffed to make it better), I have a bumper build in my near future as well as a few minor issues such as correctly wiring up my new glow plug relay, https://forum.ih8mud.com/diesel-tech-24-volts-systems/372129-glow-wiring-issue.html and this pesky speedo cable leak that drips from behind my dash, onto the A/C vent, various wires, and ultimately onto my floor. The gear oil is getting wicked up the cable from the transfercase. I must be missing the felt or an O ring or something...

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Once again, the paint looks awesome.

 

[Tofudebeest]

Thank you sir. You've been more supportive than a $300 bra.

 

[Miloslavich]

Sweet battery!

money well spent right there

you could start a tank with that thing lol