Sheetmetal
- Thread starter Trollhole
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cruiser_guy
Out of Africa / North Africa
I wish! On my salary I'd be going hungry for the next year or two!
If I HAD to I could get it drivable by then but I couldn't afford the cost of a new body, as much as I might like that.
55 tranny tunnel and floors
Will finish this today and start on the floors ..
What else do you need.??
Will finish this today and start on the floors ..
What else do you need.??
cruiser_guy
Out of Africa / North Africa
Front fenders and rear quarters are the other parts that seem to go and are a little difficult to make up on your own. Doors are a dime a dozen right now for '55's.
Paul, only problem on the floors are there are 3 different versions of the trans hump, or maybe it's not a problem
first pic in the rig is a 1970, column shift
second pic is a mid 70's I think still 3 speed, floor shift
last pic is a 4 speed on top of the mid 70's 3 speed
I think that is the order, I can't find my notes to go with the pics.
first pic in the rig is a 1970, column shift
second pic is a mid 70's I think still 3 speed, floor shift
last pic is a 4 speed on top of the mid 70's 3 speed
I think that is the order, I can't find my notes to go with the pics.
I think maybe that the prime area for rot is along the outer edge where the frame mount is so, the likely area for a universal patch is door edge in about 8 or 10 inches, up the bend to the firewall about an inch and from there back toward the seat about 8 inches at most.
The main problem I found was trying to drive the metal to the tranny hump...thats where the stylistic bends differ between years.
Of course Right vs left hand drive is a problem.
Saw the differences, the tranny hump we had available was doctored to fit,
Thinking about where to make the floor end, it looks like in so many cases it`s just the corners, so maybe use the floor year change hump, lip thing to tac in the new floor, if we just extended the floor pan some towards the tranny tunnel there should be enough room either to cut it or to underlap it to join whatever floor year.
Just a thought
Opions ??
Paul.
Thinking about where to make the floor end, it looks like in so many cases it`s just the corners, so maybe use the floor year change hump, lip thing to tac in the new floor, if we just extended the floor pan some towards the tranny tunnel there should be enough room either to cut it or to underlap it to join whatever floor year.
Just a thought
Opions ??
Paul.
Thinking about that the underlap sounds good.
- Thread starter
- #49
Yes sounds good I cannot confirm though that all the floors are the same. I would assume they would. Can someone confirm what the differences are in floor between the years?
n2666s and I went over this last year. The only real apparent difference is at the slope to the hump. And of course, the ribs are in different orientations only from drvr to pssgr sides but stay constant throughout years. I know my 7/70 and 7/75 appear consistent and IIRC I made crude measures to verify.
cruiser_guy
Out of Africa / North Africa
I think Paul has two different years of '55's in his shop, a '78 and a '72 or something like that.
floorboard fitting
Paul;
would it be possible for you to make templates of an early and a later pig floor pan and we could place an order according to which one is needed?......realizing that some fitting will be needed....have noticed that pig floors rust differently;
Lou
Paul;
would it be possible for you to make templates of an early and a later pig floor pan and we could place an order according to which one is needed?......realizing that some fitting will be needed....have noticed that pig floors rust differently; Lou
cruiser_guy
Out of Africa / North Africa
OK folks, I'm at Paul's shop right now and we've been discussing sheet metal.
Floors are as posted in the floor sticky (currently to match the '72 only). $2000 If you have a different model and need a floor we can bring your truck down and make and fit the floor here. Of course fitting the floor will cost more but the floor is not going to change in price. Alternatively just get a '72 tranny hump and use the '72 floor as I don't think there is much difference.
Front lower fenders $600/side (this is the entire lower fender just like OEM but NO holes punched for lights or emblems as that varies by year)
Rear quarters $500/side (these are from the color line on the side right to the bottom pinch weld and from the joint at the tailgate opening clear around to the rear door and will include a couple of inches of the dogleg, but NO holes punched for lights or emblems as that varies by year). We decided that a patch panel would cause too much problems with warping during welding and a joint at the color line (which is also a fold in the sheet metal) would be a better option.
This is your chance to step up to the plate and pick up some piggy sheet metal while it is available.
All prices are FOB Costa Rica. Savings can be had in a group buy on shipping but not on the parts themselves as all parts are hand made.
PM me if you're interested as Paul doesn't get on here much.
As for who Paul can sell to, the '55 market is wide open.
The work I have seen from Paul is truly amazing. I have my FJ45LV coming into his shop for the bodywork.
Floors are as posted in the floor sticky (currently to match the '72 only). $2000 If you have a different model and need a floor we can bring your truck down and make and fit the floor here. Of course fitting the floor will cost more but the floor is not going to change in price. Alternatively just get a '72 tranny hump and use the '72 floor as I don't think there is much difference.
Front lower fenders $600/side (this is the entire lower fender just like OEM but NO holes punched for lights or emblems as that varies by year)
Rear quarters $500/side (these are from the color line on the side right to the bottom pinch weld and from the joint at the tailgate opening clear around to the rear door and will include a couple of inches of the dogleg, but NO holes punched for lights or emblems as that varies by year). We decided that a patch panel would cause too much problems with warping during welding and a joint at the color line (which is also a fold in the sheet metal) would be a better option.
This is your chance to step up to the plate and pick up some piggy sheet metal while it is available.
All prices are FOB Costa Rica. Savings can be had in a group buy on shipping but not on the parts themselves as all parts are hand made.
PM me if you're interested as Paul doesn't get on here much.
As for who Paul can sell to, the '55 market is wide open.
The work I have seen from Paul is truly amazing. I have my FJ45LV coming into his shop for the bodywork.
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Charles; can you please post a picture of the rear quarters that Paul will be or is fabbing?.......does it include the rear corner?....TIA and Happy 2010
Lou
Lou
cruiser_guy
Out of Africa / North Africa
Lou, as you can see from the description, the rear quarter will be from the color line where it goes from the body color to white on the two tone trucks (a better place for a joint than lower on the panel where the panel is basically flatish and hopefully if folks weld it up correctly, less likelyhood of warpage) and from the tailgate opening clear around to the rear door. This would include the compound curve where the reverse light and reflector mount. Where the joint is a factory joint (such as the lower pinch weld) then the appropriate lip will be left to allow the old spot welds to be removed and the new piece attached, if it is not a factory joint then a small amount of sheet metal would be left for fitting.
We have not made any of these as any low demand sheet metal is made on a "paid up" basis ('40 series is "off the shelf"). If Paul would be making sheet metal for all the bits folks ask for he'd have a warehouse full of parts and no buyers!! In fact I told him NOT to make up any of this until there was someone who wants it AND has paid for it. When talking with Paul I discussed what areas of the '55 tend to rust worst and what pieces I thought would have a market. He is also willing to make up rain gutter repair pieces as well.
The first off part will undoubtedly cost Paul more than the $500/side to make due to his guys figuring out how best to make it but the cost will still be $500/side to the buyer as we hope that folks will step up once they see the quality of parts.
If you want a rear quarter, step up to the plate, cash in hand, and I'm sure Paul would be happy to make it. He uses only "Zincor" coated sheet metal to better resist corrosion.
We have not made any of these as any low demand sheet metal is made on a "paid up" basis ('40 series is "off the shelf"). If Paul would be making sheet metal for all the bits folks ask for he'd have a warehouse full of parts and no buyers!! In fact I told him NOT to make up any of this until there was someone who wants it AND has paid for it. When talking with Paul I discussed what areas of the '55 tend to rust worst and what pieces I thought would have a market. He is also willing to make up rain gutter repair pieces as well.
The first off part will undoubtedly cost Paul more than the $500/side to make due to his guys figuring out how best to make it but the cost will still be $500/side to the buyer as we hope that folks will step up once they see the quality of parts.
If you want a rear quarter, step up to the plate, cash in hand, and I'm sure Paul would be happy to make it. He uses only "Zincor" coated sheet metal to better resist corrosion.
FineWynsFJ40
Too much to do...
My floorboards are shot, so I'm going to lose the entire front floor section anyways. I am, however, interested in the rain gutter section patches. What can you tell me about them? Thanks.
cruiser_guy
Out of Africa / North Africa
We can make you the entire front floor boards with mounts and all if you'd like. One side, both sides, whatever you want!! PM me and we can discuss exactly what you might need.
The rain gutter patches are in development right now as are the "A" pillar patches.
Charles; am needing a drivers side rear quarter/corner for my 78 pig; can you please post a picture to make sure Paul nd I are in synch.?...also an aprox. idea of shipping to the USA........TIA
Lou
Lou
cruiser_guy
Out of Africa / North Africa
Charles; am needing a drivers side rear quarter/corner for my 78 pig; can you please post a picture to make sure Paul nd I are in synch.?...also an aprox. idea of shipping to the USA........TIA
Lou
Lou, as I understand it from my discussions with Paul the area outlined in red (minus all lights, fuel door and trim of course) without any holes cut for the vent/light (because it changes depending on year but if we know what you need it can be done too) is what we are proposing. The pinch weld lip will be included. Paul will need to have a good look at the '78 to see how the rear light/reflector area should go as it will be different from this picture with the long light. I do not have any pictures of a completed part as these will be "made to order" only.
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Charles; will try to find some pix of a 78/79 to send; at this time the "D" drive on the computer is dead and will have to see what I can find/scrounge of a rear corner on a later piggy by way of pix........any idea of shipping costs per rear quarter?.........TIA
Lou
Lou