Servicing 1996 FZJ-80 timing chain tensioner

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Not hard core tech but thought I'd share the photos. Today I pulled the timing chain tensioner from my 1996 FZJ80 for inspection and cleaning, I used a new metal gasket (13552-66010) when reinstalling. Only tools needed were a ratchet handle, 4-6" extension, 12mm socket (3/8" drive), and a small pair of needle nose pliers. Initially I tried some 100% Acetone brake cleaner to clean the small oil port and blew some inside the tensioner and worked the plunger, there was hardly any sludge or gunk. I then noticed the small aluminum pin that captures the plunger had a head like a nail on it and figured it was there for a reason, so you could easily pull the pin out I figured. Using a pair of pliers I pulled up on the pin and it pulled out just a tad but not so much to pull it out of the hole, the plunger then came right out pushed by two springs. Cleaned everything up using detergent type cleaner (Zep 505) and water then lubed it up quickly to prevent flash rust. I found only a light coating of varnish on the interior parts (I use Mobil 1 engine oil), but could see if someone had been running a lower grade of engine oil or ran it too long that some crud might build up inside the tensioner causing it to stick or possibly plugging up the small oil port. Before putting it back together I swiped a bit of Molybdenum paste (Loctite brand) on the moving parts along with a light oil, tapped the nail pin back in place to capture the plunger, then reinstalled the tensioner using a new crush-type metal gasket. This was a 1/4 :banana: job.

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In the last photo above you can see the small retaining pin that captures the plunger. After reinserting the plunger I just tapped that pin back in, it held firmly in place before I reinstalled the tensioner.
 
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In the first couple of photos below you can see the two springs, one inside the other. The longer spring keeps tension on the plunger before oil pressure on start up pushes on the plunger further. The purpose of the shorter spring appears to be for preventing the plunger from bottoming out inside the tensioner. The oiling port in the head (seen in the third photo below) lines up with the small hole at the base of the tensioner once the tensioner is installed.

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I did compress the plunger and got a surprise also. The cap of the tensioner wasn't painted, I used a bit of CLR to remove a touch of rust inside the stud holes then scrubbed it with ZEP 505 industrial detergent (like Purple Power or Simple Green). IME the detergent type cleaners remove oily varnish better/quicker from parts than most solvents. I also very lightly buffed the outer surface of the plunger using 4-0 steel wool, didn't want to take off any metal as the fit between the plunger and the tensioner housing is very close. FWIW.
 
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The good news is they're available brand new from Toyota ( mud price) for about $23 bucks !
 
I considered getting a new tensioner but then only needed to change out the gasket and wasn't getting any start up rattle. Was mostly curious to see if it was gunked up after 335,000 miles, assuming it's the original, but found it to be surprisingly clean (Mobil 1 might have something to do with that). After I had it apart I figured I'd document the fact that it's easily servicable. But yeah, I spent more than $25 worth of time fiddling with it, on the other hand why toss out something that is still working as designed??
 
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Challenged by the start up rattle I decided to take a look at the timing chain tensioner. Once remove I disassembled it and clean it :meh: not really dirty or gummy. I had the opportunity to test a brand new OEM timing chain tensioner. Comparing the new and old side by side everything looked and felt to be the same. :hmm:

Zero change in start up rattle with a brand new OEM timing chain tensioner installed. :(

I see many claim to have corrected the start up rattle with a 90° filter adapter. Thats great, but I'm more interested in what is the cause.

I know of a dealership that had a company come in and flush, for lack of a better word the oil passages for a no expense type guy to fix a start up rattle. After the complete 80 oiling system was cleaned and flushed there was little to no help in start up rattle. :(

Thoughts?
 
Challenged by the start up rattle I decided to take a look at the timing chain tensioner. Once remove I disassembled it and clean it :meh: not really dirty or gummy. I had the opportunity to test a brand new OEM timing chain tensioner. Comparing the new and old side by side everything looked and felt to be the same. :hmm:

Zero change in start up rattle with a brand new OEM timing chain tensioner installed. :(

I see many claim to have corrected the start up rattle with a 90° filter adapter. Thats great, but I'm more interested in what is the cause.

I know of a dealership that had a company come in and flush, for lack of a better word the oil passages for a no expense type guy to fix a start up rattle. After the complete 80 oiling system was cleaned and flushed there was little to no help in start up rattle. :(

Thoughts?

I'm left with the same start up noise after finishing a rebuild. I used an OSK timing chain kit. I ordered an OEM, but got the non ratcheting type.

Did you have any luck? I'm going to dig though my old parts to see if I still have to OE tensioner.
 
Old thread, I know. Any update on this? If it's oil pressure related I wonder if oil viscosity has any impact. I just went from 3-30 to 15-40. I'll update if it makes a difference. Does the 90 degree filter adapter keep from draining out of the tensioner?

JB
 
I've seen less start-up rattle with higher viscosity oil but also less rattle with a 90 degree oil filter adapter and less frequent rattle after cleaning the tensioner. I rarely get any rattle now.
 
Looking at getting a ratchet style chain tensioner. Toyota list two part numbers for 1FZ chain tensioners, one for an early model and one for later.
Part numbers are 13540-66010 early model and 13540-66011 for the later.
Early ones look like they are no longer available and have the later number to replace it.
All pictures of the later ones are only hydraulic with no ratchet like Kernal's one pictured above.
Does anyone have a aftermarket source for a ratchet style?
Have sent Onur a message about this but had no reply.
 
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The tensioner in the photos above is the non-ratcheting type. It's still working as designed, no issues. Just did this to another FZJ80, took the tensioner apart, cleaned it up, then enlarged the small port somewhere between 1/32"-1/64" and chamfered the hole, cleaned out any metal chips, slathered some Moly paste inside the housing and on the piston, slapped it back together.. Idea of enlarging the port being if oil pressure can pump up (push out) the tensioner piston quicker maybe less start up rattle?? Haven't yet got it back in the engine to see if it changed anything.
 
Definitely worth cleaning out if it has a few miles and poor service history.
I don't have any issues with what's in mine but I'm looking to add a turbo and have read its recommended to help with timing fluctuations.
Looks like Nason sell a kit with a ratchet style timing tensioner.
I will be getting a price of them when I'm ready to do the job
 
Looking at getting a ratchet style chain tensioner. Toyota list two part numbers for 1FZ chain tensioners, one for an early model and one for later.
Part numbers are 13540-66010 early model and 13540-66011 for the later.
Early ones look like they are no longer available and have the later number to replace it.
All pictures of the later ones are only hydraulic with no ratchet like Kernal's one pictured above.
Doers anyone have a aftermarket source for a ratchet style?
Have sent Onur a message about this but had no reply.

I thought @NLXTACY was going to start stocking these. Site says out of stock but also to call to check.
 
Looking at getting a ratchet style chain tensioner. Toyota list two part numbers for 1FZ chain tensioners, one for an early model and one for later.
Part numbers are 13540-66010 early model and 13540-66011 for the later.
Early ones look like they are no longer available and have the later number to replace it.
All pictures of the later ones are only hydraulic with no ratchet like Kernal's one pictured above.
Doers anyone have a aftermarket source for a ratchet style?
Have sent Onur a message about this but had no reply.
I wouldn't advise holding your breath...
 
Witsend does some great products, he gets these supplied by a guy in Australia, Tasmania, he is on the turbo 1FZ forum.
He machines a groove for an o-ring from memory which most likely helps seal.
Just don't like paying $100 plus for a $30 part:)
 
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