We installed our power switches at the perimeter of the seat frame. Mine is on the front. I think LCnAZ has his on the side using 3M mounting tape. We can reach while sitting in the seat.
Here is a link to the full power diagrams for the seats. Depending on production date, yours may be different. Go to the home page of the site and enter the VIN of the donor car. You can get wiring, pin outs and control explanations for your seats.
Hey guys, thanks for the followup on the BMW seat wiring biz. I was able to verify this afternoon that my driver seat does work and the timeout of the seat computer is "real". Very aggravating, at least my wiring and setup has been proved good. Guess I'll install a in-line rocker or toggle switch in one or both of the pos feeds to the seat. I did not have time to check if either one made any difference, I was just happy to see the driver side power seat move after I rigged up two jumpers on the pos feed to test.
well I like my harness that I worked hard to get like I wanted it....now have to make another change, guess that's just the way it goes if I want the seat to work, which of course I do. The good is I don't generally screw around with the seat settings once I get it where I want it. These seats are nice and make for a overall better experience.
Just read your entire build thread! Very nice Cruiser! I just bought a 88 a couple of months ago that's in decent shape but am going through a minor resto and maintenance catch up currently. I'll be using your trans cooler that you installed. Thank you for sharing your resto and passion with us!
nice work on the silicone vacuum lines. can you share where they were purchased from and the size/diameter? Thanks.It appears the UV oil dye may have been a very valuable test. The most leak is near the junction of the oil pan gasket and rear main seal, but it appears to be forward of the rear main seal. We pulled that little cover on the tranny just below the junction where oil would pass if the rear main was leaking. Nothing in there was wet. There was no fluoresce in the region nearest the rear main seal. That rear main seal was replaced with tranny rebuild about 35K ago; should be okay. We saw a little of the same at the front of the oil pan, but less. So verdict is move forward with oil pan gasket replacement. Fingers and toes crossed.
Tranny ATF oil temp gauge, sensor assembled into NPT extender and into black 6AN T-fitting. Overheat alarm will be secured to back of gauge with mounting tape. The gauge bezel will Gorilla Grip mounting tape will attach under the dash roughly under the AC/heater controls. The alarm wires are so small that I rigged a way to secure them permanently so that they are not exposed. The wires for it to the overheat light and ground will also secure there but not endanger the small wires.
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The black T-fitting with temp sensor will be inserted to one of these custom 6AN tranny cooler lines...whichever is output from the tranny.
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New silicone vacuum lines. I pulled all the OEM and went to work. I hope I remembered where they all go. Just kidding; one at a time. Lord knows I've probably done things that stupid in my life. Still need to work on the larger diameter lines.
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Sadly, I can't say I remember where I got them, but they were recommended by somebody here on the site. I was advised to get 40' of the smaller diameter (3mm) runs...which seems to be far more than needed. I've only used 23. I was told that only 10' of the larger (6mm) was needed. I'll see if I can find where I got them.nice work on the silicone vacuum lines. can you share where they were purchased from and the size/diameter? Thanks.