Builds Sentimental Restoration of Family 1990 FJ62 (2 Viewers)

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link to other site where similar discussion, as noted I have not seen validiation of where a 5v feed will solve the need to cycle the power.

FYI
 

86aggie

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We installed our power switches at the perimeter of the seat frame. Mine is on the front. I think LCnAZ has his on the side using 3M mounting tape. We can reach while sitting in the seat.
Here is a link to the full power diagrams for the seats. Depending on production date, yours may be different. Go to the home page of the site and enter the VIN of the donor car. You can get wiring, pin outs and control explanations for your seats.

 
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We installed our power switches at the perimeter of the seat frame. Mine is on the front. I think LCnAZ has his on the side using 3M mounting tape. We can reach while sitting in the seat.
Here is a link to the full power diagrams for the seats. Depending on production date, yours may be different. Go to the home page of the site and enter the VIN of the donor car. You can get wiring, pin outs and control explanations for your seats.


thanks...I don't know that I ever got a VIN # reference. I bought my seats from a place over near Atlanta GA, where they salvage BMW stuff and sell it on line and on the premises, I think they do repair work. Anyway as I recall I just saw an add on Ebay and was kind of local in the aspect of it was in the "South" so I drove over there and got the seats some time ago and I also got the main seat harness for each seat, at least what was left of it. I then extended the power and ground wires to make things work. From what I've seen pics of, my seats seem to have been a fairly common option or common trim package (how-ever ) BMW sets up their options. I'll see if I can come up with a VIN reference and go from there.
 
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Hey guys, thanks for the followup on the BMW seat wiring biz. I was able to verify this afternoon that my driver seat does work and the timeout of the seat computer is "real". Very aggravating, at least my wiring and setup has been proved good. Guess I'll install a in-line rocker or toggle switch in one or both of the pos feeds to the seat. I did not have time to check if either one made any difference, I was just happy to see the driver side power seat move after I rigged up two jumpers on the pos feed to test.

well I like my harness that I worked hard to get like I wanted it....now have to make another change, guess that's just the way it goes if I want the seat to work, which of course I do. The good is I don't generally screw around with the seat settings once I get it where I want it. These seats are nice and make for a overall better experience.
 
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Hey guys, thanks for the followup on the BMW seat wiring biz. I was able to verify this afternoon that my driver seat does work and the timeout of the seat computer is "real". Very aggravating, at least my wiring and setup has been proved good. Guess I'll install a in-line rocker or toggle switch in one or both of the pos feeds to the seat. I did not have time to check if either one made any difference, I was just happy to see the driver side power seat move after I rigged up two jumpers on the pos feed to test.

well I like my harness that I worked hard to get like I wanted it....now have to make another change, guess that's just the way it goes if I want the seat to work, which of course I do. The good is I don't generally screw around with the seat settings once I get it where I want it. These seats are nice and make for a overall better experience.

Yes, it's worth the effort...and up-front headaches. Here is a photo where you can see the switch I use.

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I used this to get things to work, if I get motivated later I might do something cleaner, but for now this works well. (on the driver side BMW seat setup) to control the pos power feed to the seat.

Amazon product
 
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The Cruiser has been taking a vacation in the garage during the heat of the Arizona summer. With the heat broken, a new battery, and the brakes fully restored with new front discs, rear adjustment, new Aisin master, and aftermarket booster, it was time to get it out of the stable for a run. The pooch and I took a run up Mt. Lemmon to Summerhaven for a trek to check out fall colors. For any locals reading, peak fall colors should be the coming weekend of the 26th/27th.

Forgive the poor focus on the wide shot.

The Cruiser ran steady as she goes. 👍 Ahhh...

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vegasfj40

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Just read your entire build thread! Very nice Cruiser! I just bought a 88 a couple of months ago that's in decent shape but am going through a minor resto and maintenance catch up currently. I'll be using your trans cooler that you installed. Thank you for sharing your resto and passion with us!
 
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Just read your entire build thread! Very nice Cruiser! I just bought a 88 a couple of months ago that's in decent shape but am going through a minor resto and maintenance catch up currently. I'll be using your trans cooler that you installed. Thank you for sharing your resto and passion with us!

Thank you for the kind words. I'm glad it will be of help. Congrats on your find!

BTW, I think that the condenser fan in conjunction/tandem with the trans cooler is a really effective "design." It serves the needs of both boosting condenser cooling and tranny cooling. FWIW
 

DougRFJ62

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Hi Randy!!! @LCnAZ See that you installed the Arb bumper. Looks Great, plus love the paint. I really need to update the my profile picture. The FJ62 has ARB bumper, a trail tailor roof rack and white knuckle off road sliders. All the weight plus are camping gear really slows the cruiser down when it rolls into the hills. I am having the gear ratio changed from 4.11 to 4.88 and moving up to larger tires. I am also starting the install for the second battery install. Installed a second battery tray and relocated the radiator overflow. Looking at blue sea components. Installed a Kenwood Ham radio along with a Garmin InReach for communications where there is no cell phone service. Death Valley and Borrego Springs . We are headed out to Borrego Springs in a few more weeks. The weather is finally changing here in the SouthWest.
-Doug

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@DougRFJ62 Hey Doug, good to hear from you and an update on your rig. Also glad that fires aren't threatening you this year.

The rig is looking great! I really dig the communications gear you've added. I've never been there, but I hear that there are some cool places and things to see in the Death Valley area. You might be amused by nearby "Star Wars Canyon" (see link). star wars canyon - Bing video

Have fun. Travel safely.
 
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Undertook a small and rather tedious task this weekend to restore the EFI emblem on the engine. The emblem was totally tarnished and with only a spec of red paint left. It can be removed with effort and care with a stiff metal putty knife and hammer. The emblem tended to roll into an arc as I slowly tapped it clear. It is easy to put it back to normal. To my surprise, it appeared to be attached via white foam mounting tape.

Removing the old tape is slow and tedious. I used citrus Goo Gone and just worked at it with fingernails. Same for the mounting platform on the engine. I tried to remove the tarnish with polishing compound by hand, but was getting nowhere. I took the powered polisher to it with a 3" 3000 grit wet sand pad, and it clean up super fast. I then changed to the polishing compound and brought out a great shine.

Masking the letters is really tough/tedious and tough on the eyes. I used Duplicolor engine primer and paint, and Rustoleum engine clear coat. Removing the masking tape is also tedious and slow so as to not tear loose the edges of the letters. The edges are not perfect, so I used an Exacto to clean up the letter edges as much as I could. They are far from perfect, but I then clear coated it and popped it in a 250 degree oven for 30 minutes.

After cooling, I used Gorilla Glue mounting tape that is rated up to about 250 degrees. I prepped the back of the emblem and engine platform with alcohol. I placed the emblem, and added a weight on it for one minute.

Far from perfect, but looks pretty good at normal viewing distance, don't you think?

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It's kind of scary how long it's been since I posted anything here. Forgive me.

Minor update. It's still a garage queen with less than 500 miles on it since last post.

Did a new compression test today, and checked for ring leakage. Results were pretty good. One at 130, two at 135, two at 140, and one at 145. No detectable ring leakage. Not bad for 240K OEM miles. This is actually a bit better than the last check before valve adjustment and change to 10W40 oil.

Next up is replacement of valve cover gasket and vacuum hoses. We'll monitor the oil leakage for a while, then, to see if that was most of the issue. If not, then the seals and oil pan gasket are next.

Also checked paperwork and verified that when I had the windows tinted with ceramic film (in 2007!), I paid an extra $30 for unlimited no-fault warranty. All the tint will be replaced with the Formula One ceramic soon. Good investment.

Considering taking it to a car show in Colorado at the end of September. That would be a two-ship formation/deployment. Wifey would chase with late model Sequoia.
 
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A little maintenance/service adventure in the morning. Gonna pour in a bottle of UV oil dye, drive about a half hour, then go to work with a UV light to trace leaks. Will assess locations and severity. Most seem minor/normal. Even the rear main is not terrible, but might just do it and the oil pan gasket at the same time.

Replaced all the smaller diameter vacuum hoses this week. Photos tomorrow.

All parts on hand for service and upgrades. OEM Toyota parts from Camelback Toyota. Crankcase seal (rear main), valve cover gasket, oil pan gasket. Also grabbed the pushrod (side) cover gasket, but hope to never need it.

NPT 1/8 T-fitting going into OEM oil gauge sender port. OEM sender and 4psi sender will work on that T. The low pressure sender will go to a loud alarm under the dash. This is to be primarily an emergency oil gallery plug failure alarm. On alarm: Immediately safely clear road and shut down...and pray I was quick enough.

6AN T-fitting with NPT 1/8 female tap will be inserted in the tranny output hose at tranny. GlowShift oil temp sensor going into that; gauge will be under dash for monitoring tranny temp. A loud alarm under the dash will be spliced into the OEM tranny sender wire for the overtemp light. I don't ever expect a catastrophic failure of ATF or heat spike, but just in case I get inattentive of the temp gauge, at least I'll get an audible warning at overtemp.

Since the alarm is the same for both low oil pressure and tranny overtemp, I would use the same procedure to safely clear and shut down as if it's the worst case possibility (the oil pressure). Once clear and shut down, I can check/verify which alarm it may have been. I know it seems logical to use different sounding alarms, but I think that there is a danger that time could be lost sorting out which is which. I'll use the same protocol for an emergency alarm on takeoff roll prior to V1. ABORT; safely stop in minimum time/distance, take the appropriate action (shutdown), then ops check gauges to analyze/verify.

I'll try to get a bunch of photos tomorrow.
 
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It appears the UV oil dye may have been a very valuable test. The most leak is near the junction of the oil pan gasket and rear main seal, but it appears to be forward of the rear main seal. We pulled that little cover on the tranny just below the junction where oil would pass if the rear main was leaking. Nothing in there was wet. There was no fluoresce in the region nearest the rear main seal. That rear main seal was replaced with tranny rebuild about 35K ago; should be okay. We saw a little of the same at the front of the oil pan, but less. So verdict is move forward with oil pan gasket replacement. Fingers and toes crossed.

Tranny ATF oil temp gauge, sensor assembled into NPT extender and into black 6AN T-fitting. Overheat alarm will be secured to back of gauge with mounting tape. The gauge bezel will attach under the dash with Gorilla Grip mounting tape roughly under the AC/heater controls. The alarm wires are so small that I rigged a way to secure them permanently so that they are not exposed. The wires for it to the overheat light and ground will also secure there but not endanger the small wires.
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The black T-fitting with temp sensor will be inserted to one of these custom 6AN tranny cooler lines...whichever is output from the tranny.
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New silicone vacuum lines. I pulled all the OEM and went to work. I hope I remembered where they all go.:oops: Just kidding; one at a time. Lord knows I've probably done things that stupid in my life.:rolleyes: Still need to work on the larger diameter lines.
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MTB Land Cruise

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It appears the UV oil dye may have been a very valuable test. The most leak is near the junction of the oil pan gasket and rear main seal, but it appears to be forward of the rear main seal. We pulled that little cover on the tranny just below the junction where oil would pass if the rear main was leaking. Nothing in there was wet. There was no fluoresce in the region nearest the rear main seal. That rear main seal was replaced with tranny rebuild about 35K ago; should be okay. We saw a little of the same at the front of the oil pan, but less. So verdict is move forward with oil pan gasket replacement. Fingers and toes crossed.

Tranny ATF oil temp gauge, sensor assembled into NPT extender and into black 6AN T-fitting. Overheat alarm will be secured to back of gauge with mounting tape. The gauge bezel will Gorilla Grip mounting tape will attach under the dash roughly under the AC/heater controls. The alarm wires are so small that I rigged a way to secure them permanently so that they are not exposed. The wires for it to the overheat light and ground will also secure there but not endanger the small wires.
View attachment 2790676
The black T-fitting with temp sensor will be inserted to one of these custom 6AN tranny cooler lines...whichever is output from the tranny.
View attachment 2790684
New silicone vacuum lines. I pulled all the OEM and went to work. I hope I remembered where they all go.:oops: Just kidding; one at a time. Lord knows I've probably done things that stupid in my life.:rolleyes: Still need to work on the larger diameter lines.
View attachment 2790685
View attachment 2790686
nice work on the silicone vacuum lines. can you share where they were purchased from and the size/diameter? Thanks.
 
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nice work on the silicone vacuum lines. can you share where they were purchased from and the size/diameter? Thanks.
Sadly, I can't say I remember where I got them, but they were recommended by somebody here on the site. I was advised to get 40' of the smaller diameter (3mm) runs...which seems to be far more than needed. I've only used 23. I was told that only 10' of the larger (6mm) was needed. I'll see if I can find where I got them.
 

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