Sensor lift (1 Viewer)

[suprarx7nut]

Again, @suprarx7nut beat me to the punch, but "leaking AHC shocks" is a common "diagnosis" from uninformed mechanics that cost a lot and does nothing to address the problem. However, it's important to know what kind of leak we're talking about. Usually, leaks from excessive pressure come from the visible midpoint of the shock actuator and weep down over the lower shock body. Leaks from the top of the shock usually indicate worn seals that can be replaced relatively easily. Here's Toyota's diagram on shock leakage. IME, even some of the higher level leaks can be corrected when pressures are back in spec.

View attachment 2314167

Nice screengrab! Probably important to note that those leak patterns probably assume pressures are "in spec".

 

[BEG]

Nice screengrab! Probably important to note that those leak patterns probably assume pressures are "in spec".

Correct about the pressures. So if you have a level 1 and it becomes a level 4 after pressure/preload adjustment, you're good to go. Makes me wonder how many fully operational AHC systems have been scrapped on account of "leaking shocks," only to be replaced with bottom-of-the barrel conventional suspensions at a much higher cost.

 

[suprarx7nut]

Correct about the pressures. So if you have a level 5 and it becomes a level 2 after pressure/preload adjustment, you're good to go. Makes me wonder how many fully operational AHC systems have been scrapped on account of "leaking shocks," only to be replaced with bottom-of-the barrel conventional suspensions at a much higher cost.

An awful lot, I think.

It's unfortunate how common this sort of thing is in the automotive world. The amount of waste due to lack of knowledge and/or documentation is enormous.

 

[OEMGUY0720]

While my 2000 LX is in the shop for a few replacement hoses and new spark plugs my mechanic is gonna try and do the sensor lift for me. All I want is an inch, maybe inch and a half so I sent him this picture I found in another thread and told him to just do about half of the top measurement. Any other thoughts? Also need to get the damn tech stream up haha

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This length adjustment at the front and about 1/2 inch at back got me to this:

275/70R18s with 1.25” wheel spacer with no pinch-weld hammering just heated the plastic splash guards to mold in to the edge of the pinch welds all clear on full turn and articulations.

 

[gamecock2009]

Correct about the pressures. So if you have a level 1 and it becomes a level 4 after pressure/preload adjustment, you're good to go. Makes me wonder how many fully operational AHC systems have been scrapped on account of "leaking shocks," only to be replaced with bottom-of-the barrel conventional suspensions at a much higher cost.

Just sent that to my mechanic and he said level 1, and this is a guy I trust. I’ll still get the pressures in check and go from there.

 

[BEG]

Just sent that to my mechanic and he said level 1, and this is a guy I trust. I’ll still get the pressures in check and go from there.

Get the pressures in spec first, then reassess. Like I said earlier, your level one might turn into a level 5 after adjustment and save you tons of time and money over just throwing parts at it.

 

[gamecock2009]

Get the pressures in spec first, then reassess. Like I said earlier, your level one might turn into a level 5 after adjustment and save you tons of time and money over just throwing parts at it.

Ill be in touch haha

 

[LndXrsr]

Man, detailed stuff like this is what makes this forum so great. Big AHC fan and not only is this helpful for getting things in spec, but it also is comforting to know there are plenty of other obsessive hydraulic-suspension-loving nutjobs out there like me.

 

[Mauser]

Correct about the pressures. So if you have a level 5 and it becomes a level 2 after pressure/preload adjustment, you're good to go. Makes me wonder how many fully operational AHC systems have been scrapped on account of "leaking shocks," only to be replaced with bottom-of-the barrel conventional suspensions at a much higher cost.

I love my AHC and will try to keep it as long as possible. I think it scares a lot if people.

My poor suspension has nearly 300,000 miles and has been beat to hell. I drive around 30 miles of rough, washboard, twisty gravel roads every day and always drive faster than I should. I love the fact that I can raise my truck when playing around or working on it, and I can lower it to load the top.

 

[gamecock2009]

I love my AHC and will try to keep it as long as possible. I think it scares a lot if people.

My poor suspension has nearly 300,000 miles and has been beat to hell. I drive around 30 miles of rough, washboard, twisty gravel roads every day and always drive faster than I should. I love the fact that I can raise my truck when playing around or working on it, and I can lower it to load the top.

I really hope I can keep it and the shock isn’t truly leaking. If it is and it will cost me ~$600 then I might just pony up and replace it all. We will see what happens

 

[J1000]

Techstream is free and you can get a cable for cheap: https://amzn.to/3ge4jnF

How-To: TechStream In 5 Minutes

Getting Techstream up and running can be a bit of a pain. Hopefully this helps someone get started quickly. Step 1: Purchase an OBD-II / Mini-VCI interface. - I have sold out of my cables and supply chains are back in order, so no reason to purchase more. Anything like this will work: Mini-VCI...

forum.ih8mud.com

You probably just need 5-6 turns on your torsion bar adjusting screws. I put a piece of tape on an impact socket so I can count the rotations. This is a minimal investment of time and money with big returns. Otherwise you are just shooting in the dark and at the mercy of your mechanic.

 

[Fisher67]

Techstream is free and you can get a cable for cheap: Amazon.com: Washinglee OBD2 Diagnostic Cable for Toyota Lexus Scion, USB Diangostic Scanner Cable Supporting TIS Techstream and 32/64 bit Windows: Industrial & Scientific

How-To: TechStream In 5 Minutes

Getting Techstream up and running can be a bit of a pain. Hopefully this helps someone get started quickly. Step 1: Purchase an OBD-II / Mini-VCI interface. - I have sold out of my cables and supply chains are back in order, so no reason to purchase more. Anything like this will work: Mini-VCI...

forum.ih8mud.com

You probably just need 5-6 turns on your torsion bar adjusting screws. I put a piece of tape on an impact socket so I can count the rotations. This is a minimal investment of time and money with big returns. Otherwise you are just shooting in the dark and at the mercy of your mechanic.

I would love someone that knows about the sensors to look at my reading, which seems to indicate that the sensors are not equal in adjustment. Added King Springs to the rear and adjusted the torsion bars, but seems like the rear is still pretty low. Seems like adjusting the rear sensors will raise it a little (desired) and increase the rear pressure, also a goal.

if anyone can describe of I need to cross level the sensors and how much adjusting is needed for another 1 inch of lift.

 

[BEG]

I would love someone that knows about the sensors to look at my reading, which seems to indicate that the sensors are not equal in adjustment. Added King Springs to the rear and adjusted the torsion bars, but seems like the rear is still pretty low. Seems like adjusting the rear sensors will raise it a little (desired) and increase the rear pressure, also a goal.

if anyone can describe of I need to cross level the sensors and how much adjusting is needed for another 1 inch of lift.

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View attachment 2315572

What I'm seeing is pretty typical. The drivers side has the fuel tank, driver weight, battery etc. so it tends to sag lower than the passenger side over time. If you want to cross level, it should be done with the engine off so you get a true reading of the preload without the AHC helping. Regarding raising the rear, it will increase the AHC pressure. Before that, you should grab center of wheel hub to fender dimension at all four corners. You want to maintain a 1" - 2" downward rake, back-to-front.

 

[suprarx7nut]

I would love someone that knows about the sensors to look at my reading, which seems to indicate that the sensors are not equal in adjustment. Added King Springs to the rear and adjusted the torsion bars, but seems like the rear is still pretty low. Seems like adjusting the rear sensors will raise it a little (desired) and increase the rear pressure, also a goal.

if anyone can describe of I need to cross level the sensors and how much adjusting is needed for another 1 inch of lift.

View attachment 2315571

View attachment 2315572

The front and rear are not supposed to be equal so that's fine. They're two independent systems (just happen to be fed by the same fluid pump).

Your rear pressure indicates a small sensor lift should be fine. I'd start with .5-1" and remeasure.

Cross level heights look fine on the sensors. +/- ~6mm is the goal, but 9 isn't far off. Measure physically either using the FSM method with suspension bolts or the lazy way (just about as good) by going wheel center to fender arch. If the sensors match the physical within ~1/4" I think you're all good.

1" lift in the front might be enough to start wearing out CV and/or boots a little early. Not a huge deal, but sticking to ~1/2" might save you some CV maintenance.

 

[Seth7843]

AHC, Actual Height, Pressures - LC100

Hi all, I bought my first Toyota LC100 month ago and I spent all that time reading, trying to fix my AHC suspension. Coming from a BMW world that was a lot of information for a new guy! The car is absolutely stock 2000 4.2TD LandCruiser /400000KM ODO/, equipped with 285/75/16 BFG AT KO2 in...

forum.ih8mud.com

Post #8 on this thread has really good info about the proper order of cross leveling and getting your AHC to the proper settings.

I have adjusted my heim joints to be as short as possible in the front but I haven’t cut the bolt. I adjusted my rear sensor to make the rear as high as possible. This gave me a slight lift and I’m still able to use all height positions of my AHC. I have the King springs in the rear. It rides really well and allows me to run a 285/75/17 with no rubbing after pinch weld mod.

Normal :

High setting:

 

[gamecock2009]

Still waiting on my new techstream cable to come in and hoping that solves my issues with connectivity. Today though I noticed my AHC "readjusting itself" almost. I was sitting in N in park and it just randomly shifted around, didnt go into high or low and stayed in neutral. Does anyone else have this happen?

 

[BEG]

Still waiting on my new techstream cable to come in and hoping that solves my issues with connectivity. Today though I noticed my AHC "readjusting itself" almost. I was sitting in N in park and it just randomly shifted around, didnt go into high or low and stayed in neutral. Does anyone else have this happen?

The system is automatic. It will self-level when it needs to. Totally normal.

 

[Fisher67]

Thanks for the tips. Checked measurements and I was 21” in the back and around 19.5” in the front. Moved the slider for the rear sensor around 3/8th of an inch higher and rechecked the pressures. Front and rear went up slightly in pressure, but the driver side read went down to around 20.5”. Was I supposed to adjust the heim joint Rather than the slider? Any tips on how far to adjust the rear sear to get a little more lift in the back?

 

[87 Land Cruiser]

back?

What kind of wrench goes on this nut?

 

[Fisher67]

10mm open ended wrench