Securing a hi-lift (lockable bolts)

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Found these pics on an Aussie's post from '07. I was wondering where I can find some bolts like this...
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Make one... a few minutes with a grinder and a drill.

Mark...
 
Grinder (or file) to make a flat-spot. Drill to make the hole. A vise to hold the bolt securely is nice but not essential. Doesn't take long.
 
Use a bolt the same size and thread as your lugs and use a lug nut, then you'll have a spare.
 
^^^

I like this, just don't lose the "key"
 
Depending on the mount you have why not use both? 4x4labs uses the same size lug nuts as on most Toyota trucks so rather than monkey around with a wrench every time I needed to use the jack I made an acorn lug nut into a big wingnut. The upside is it keeps the jack from rattling around. In addition you can drill a bolt or piece of rod for the lock to add security. I'm not a big fan of having to find a tool or lock key while on the trail when in a pinch. KISS...keep it simple s...
 
What size bolt did you use? A size on the pad lock would be nice too. Thanks
 
While it looks good all it takes is a wrench to make that a lock shear.

If the bolt is grade 8 and the nut too it will most likely just shear the crappy lock right off if you were to back the nut off.

If the bolt/nut are cheesy soft stuff then it will be a big ol mess that needs to be redone if an attempt is made to steal it anyways.
 
I chose to build my locking kit a little differently. No wrench, no parts to get buggered up in an attempt of theft. All half inch grade 8 bolts and chain to secure the jack

Here is my design. It works well and I have never had any complaints from anybody.
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Lucky for us most thieves like soft targets and if a lock is present they move on to another target.

Now a determined thief is gonna steal your junk regardless. Most locks just keep lazy / unskilled thiefs at bay.
 
Yep pretty much.


Just look at the tiny brass lock compared to the stacked/laminated plate lock and notice what lock will come off with a hammer.



Just my .02 but my $60 hilift is worth more to me than a $1.99 truevalue type brass lock.
 
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Yep pretty much.

Just look at the tiny brass lock compared to the stacked/laminated plate lock and notice what lock will come off with a hammer.

Just my .02 but my $60 hilift is worth more to me than a $1.99 truevalue type brass lock.

I always try to use nice locks when they are exposed to the elements. I had one recently freeze shut and I had to pry it off.

Now back on topic - apologies to the OP! :cheers:
 
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I just can't see needing to secure a highlift like it is a high value item. A simple bolt will deter any casual thief. Little is gonna stop a determined one.

If you live in a place where you have real concerns about it being stolen off your rig in the driveway or at the office... leave it at home and just mount it when you head out for the trails.

If you live in a place where you use it routinely in your daily activities... chances are you are not also in an environment where it is likely to be stolen off your rig.


Mark...
 
My jack is behind the seats. It mounts on two bolts through the front of the fender wells. The stack-up is: bolt-washer-fender-washer-half nut. On top of that I put a washer, half of a shock absorber bushing then the jack and a lug nut. The rubber bushing keeps the vibe down and puts tension on the nut to keep it in place. It's not locked and I'm sure some day it will be stolen but I need it now and then so I keep it there.
 
it's great solution for those who need the hi-lift daily .. in the trail I don't care about security on my Cruiser .. it's me and fellows ..

In the city or 12V compressor or Toyota bottle jack ..
 
Skip the grinder, just thread on a nut and drill right through nut and bolt. This makes it easy to center the hole on the bolt body.
 

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