Secondary Air Injection issues/ bypass (1 Viewer)

[clrussell]

Last Friday my girl friend calls me after leaving work saying the Cruiser is angry. I had started it for her before she left for work that day and the Christmas tree was on on the dash so I grabbed the code reader and just cleared codes as it was a cool morning and I’ve fought evap lights in the past.

Fast forward to 4:00 and she’s leaving work and the lights are back on the dash (unusual for evap to return like that). She calls and explains Cruiser “won’t go”. So I’m thinking she’s bumped it into 4lo or something. (She’s locked the rear locker on accident before, but she figured that out.)

I walk her through the code reader and she gets the Secondary Air Injection Switching valve stuck on code. She clears it and drives home no problem 60 miles. Next morning I start it to go to gym. Same code, same limp mode. Clear and go on..

Well it’s done it every cold start since and I guess I’m just going to have to bite the bullet and fix it.

Valve is under the intake at the back. Hooray.
Valve cost $600+ from Toyota

My question is - has anyone here installed the bypass kit from Hewitt? Currently on sale for $405

Hewitt-Tech Gen 2: 3 Valve Secondary Air Injection System Bypass Kit (Partially Plug & Play)

Gen 2 (3 Valve) SAIS Bypass Kit is compatible with select 4.7L Toyota / Lexus Trucks & SUVs model. It enables you to clear the Check Engine Light, Limp Mode and error codes related to both mechanical and electrical SAIS faults. P0412 P0415 P0418 P0419 P1441 P1442 P1444 P1445 P2440 P2441 P2442...

hewitt-tech.com

I’m all for oem repairs, however mine has 265k on it and I’m sure the pump isn’t going to last forever (another $600). I’m in a non emissions area, and the limp mode over emissions aggravates me. But it is what it is.

Thoughts?

 

[bloc]

Just to add a little data I had one of the pump controllers go out around 180k miles. One of the pumps would just run and run independent of ignition on/off or engine run time. Used controller from the junk yard and it’s good to go.

It does seem like we have less problems with SAIS than the tundra guys, but the systems are nearly identical so it’s reasonable to assume we’ll start having more problems with them eventually.

 

[clrussell]

Just to add a little data I had one of the pump controllers go out around 180k miles. One of the pumps would just run and run independent of ignition on/off or engine run time. Used controller from the junk yard and it’s good to go.

It does seem like we have less problems with SAIS than the tundra guys, but the systems are nearly identical so it’s reasonable to assume we’ll start having more problems with them eventually.

At least on the tundras you can tune it out with software.

 

[lowenbrau]

Slightly related. I installed the gen 1 Hewitt kit on my 2010 Sequoia with the 1URFE. Still get the odd code in the winter when it is very cold but never limp mode. Hewitt is excellent at after sales service and gave me a nice list of things to check when the weather warms up but to be honest. It's easier just to clear the code when they happen in the winter. I'd probably have bought the second gen kit if I could do it over again.

 

[bloc]

At least on the tundras you can tune it out with software.

What software?

 

[clrussell]

What software?

I beeline hp tuners or efi live has support on the tundra.
They have very little cruiser support

 

[Cruisin911]

Last Friday my girl friend calls me after leaving work saying the Cruiser is angry. I had started it for her before she left for work that day and the Christmas tree was on on the dash so I grabbed the code reader and just cleared codes as it was a cool morning and I’ve fought evap lights in the past.

Fast forward to 4:00 and she’s leaving work and the lights are back on the dash (unusual for evap to return like that). She calls and explains Cruiser “won’t go”. So I’m thinking she’s bumped it into 4lo or something. (She’s locked the rear locker on accident before, but she figured that out.)

I walk her through the code reader and she gets the Secondary Air Injection Switching valve stuck on code. She clears it and drives home no problem 60 miles. Next morning I start it to go to gym. Same code, same limp mode. Clear and go on..

Well it’s done it every cold start since and I guess I’m just going to have to bite the bullet and fix it.

Valve is under the intake at the back. Hooray.
Valve cost $600+ from Toyota

My question is - has anyone here installed the bypass kit from Hewitt? Currently on sale for $405

Hewitt-Tech Gen 2: 3 Valve Secondary Air Injection System Bypass Kit (Partially Plug & Play)

Gen 2 (3 Valve) SAIS Bypass Kit is compatible with select 4.7L Toyota / Lexus Trucks & SUVs model. It enables you to clear the Check Engine Light, Limp Mode and error codes related to both mechanical and electrical SAIS faults. P0412 P0415 P0418 P0419 P1441 P1442 P1444 P1445 P2440 P2441 P2442...

hewitt-tech.com

I’m all for oem repairs, however mine has 265k on it and I’m sure the pump isn’t going to last forever (another $600). I’m in a non emissions area, and the limp mode over emissions aggravates me. But it is what it is.

Thoughts?

I run the Hewitt Gen 2 unit and have had zero issues over a number of years now. I did have the same valve error, and ended up replacing it with a non-OEM part during my valley plate leak repair. I have not bothered to pull off the Hewitt bypass to see if I fixed the issue completely with just the valve. Its really a set and forget kind of system.

 

[clrussell]

I run the Hewitt Gen 2 unit and have had zero issues over a number of years now. I did have the same valve error, and ended up replacing it with a non-OEM part during my valley plate leak repair. I have not bothered to pull off the Hewitt bypass to see if I fixed the issue completely with just the valve. Its really a set and forget kind of system.

Did you do the block off plates as well?

 

[Cruisin911]

nope. never installed them.

 

[clrussell]

nope. never installed them.

Hmm.

I’m leaning toward the bypass. I see good things about it on the tundra front

 

[08URJ200]

Read your post and went outside just now and installed the bypass. took about an hour and i was taking my sweet time being extra cautious with the old and new wiring.

Have had it for a few years as I had a period where i was getting 244x and sending to limp. Went away for 3-4 years now. Back in March, started getting P2443. Would clear and come back within a few cold starts. This time would not send into limp, but still had lights and codes and no 4 lo.

Was hesitant as didnt want to do the block offs. Id rather have a code than exhaust leak. With Cruisin911s comment on not having them installed with no issues, I opted for Clarkson's 'How hard could it be?' and took the box outside.

I started with the passenger valve as its the hardest and was not going to proceed if that gave me issues. Its not that bad really, i used a small step stool and had my chest on the air filter, headlamp for light. Just need to push down on the rear of the tab/fitting and pull back. Its tight for an adult hand but i got it after a few attempts. Driver was easier to get your hand on. I removed the rear stand/legs that the engine cover sits on to get more hand access to the passenger. 10mm x 2

Once I had the two valve sensors unplugged, the rest was elementary. Fired right up, no lights. Will have to give it a few days to see if it comes back. Hopefully that was that. I think at most now the PSO sensor in the valve may go out and produce a different code, I believe P243x at which oint you can buy Hewitts sensor for that fix. That would be another 30 second job if even necessary.

I was rolling the windows down at the same time but i dont believe the pumps kicked on at start up....may not moving forward now due to the bypass.

If it holds Ill need to go back in and tie it up nice and neat.

Ill keep you posted

 

[clrussell]

Read your post and went outside just now and installed the bypass. took about an hour and i was taking my sweet time being extra cautious with the old and new wiring.

Have had it for a few years as I had a period where i was getting 244x and sending to limp. Went away for 3-4 years now. Back in March, started getting P2443. Would clear and come back within a few cold starts. This time would not send into limp, but still had lights and codes and no 4 lo.

Was hesitant as didnt want to do the block offs. Id rather have a code than exhaust leak. With Cruisin911s comment on not having them installed with no issues, I opted for Clarkson's 'How hard could it be?' and took the box outside.

I started with the passenger valve as its the hardest and was not going to proceed if that gave me issues. Its not that bad really, i used a small step stool and had my chest on the air filter, headlamp for light. Just need to push down on the rear of the tab/fitting and pull back. Its tight for an adult hand but i got it after a few attempts. Driver was easier to get your hand on. I removed the rear stand/legs that the engine cover sits on to get more hand access to the passenger. 10mm x 2

Once I had the two valve sensors unplugged, the rest was elementary. Fired right up, no lights. Will have to give it a few days to see if it comes back. Hopefully that was that. I think at most now the PSO sensor in the valve may go out and produce a different code, I believe P243x at which oint you can buy Hewitts sensor for that fix. That would be another 30 second job if even necessary.

I was rolling the windows down at the same time but i dont believe the pumps kicked on at start up....may not moving forward now due to the bypass.

If it holds Ill need to go back in and tie it up nice and neat.

Ill keep you posted

Thanks for the Update. I’ve decided I’m going to buy the bypass and do that. I need to do valve cover gaskets anyway and have been putting it off. So I’ll just cry and do it all at once. Send the lady in the tundra for a daily and I’ll drive the 40 until it breaks or I get the 200 done.

 

[08URJ200]

Update - after 7 cold starts had a P2442 code come up. Original code was P2443. These are for the same side, passenger. Ordered a PSR add-on from Hewitt and so far it has resolved the issue. It appears my passenger side (bank 2) valve was on its way out.

If you are getting the by-pass for the 5.7, make sure you dont get the one you have linked in your post. The other Gen 2 kit is what you need.

Also, if you arent going to install the block off plates, I would suggest getting (2) PSR add-ons and not relying on your factory valves moving forward. The block offs help prevent damage to the valve sensor but even with them installed, your factory valves can go out anyway.

I will likely order another PSR for the driver side and be done with it. They will likely only get more expensive over time and failure of the factory valve is inevitable.

 

[clrussell]

Update - after 7 cold starts had a P2442 code come up. Original code was P2443. These are for the same side, passenger. Ordered a PSR add-on from Hewitt and so far it has resolved the issue. It appears my passenger side (bank 2) valve was on its way out.

If you are getting the by-pass for the 5.7, make sure you dont get the one you have linked in your post. The other Gen 2 kit is what you need.

Also, if you arent going to install the block off plates, I would suggest getting (2) PSR add-ons and not relying on your factory valves moving forward. The block offs help prevent damage to the valve sensor but even with them installed, your factory valves can go out anyway.

I will likely order another PSR for the driver side and be done with it. They will likely only get more expensive over time and failure of the factory valve is inevitable.

Thank you for the update. Good info to know.

So with the block off plates the PSR isn’t needed correct?

 

[08URJ200]

Correct, you would only need the PSR once your valves are going bad. Even if you use the block off plates, you may still need a PSR in the future if the valves go out. I would suggest doing it all at once so you don't have to worry about them failing down the road.

 

[clrussell]

Correct, you would only need the PSR once your valves are going bad. Even if you use the block off plates, you may still need a PSR in the future if the valves go out. I would suggest doing it all at once so you don't have to worry about them failing down the road.

Mine threw a valve code when it did it. So I’m sure my valve is on the way out.

 

[Cruisin911]

So, an update to this. I ran the Hewitt bypass for years with zero issues. UNTIL I was on my way to COTR. As I am pulling in to Durango, my dash lit up like a christmas tree and threw a P0113 code with the typical 4LO, VSC, check engine, etc... lights. One twist though, the coolant temperature was showing zero (needle all the way left). When I did the valley plate repair, I put in a new SAI valve on the back of the manifold, as this was the reason for the hewitt bypass to begin with. After 15 minutes of troubleshooting, I removed the hewitt system, reconnected all the stock connections, and cleared the codes. It all came back to life and I spent a blissful 5 days in the San Juan mountains of Colorado. Long story short, I am going to see what Hewitt says about their module causing this failure.

 

[08URJ200]

I fail to see what the Hewitt bypass has to do with P0113. Replacing the SAI valve is likely the reason you can run the truck without the bypass and the P0113 code likely just went away on its on. Also, you carry the stock SAS module that you have to remove for the kit to work in your truck? That was lucky.

 

[Cruisin911]

I fail to see what the Hewitt bypass has to do with P0113. Replacing the SAI valve is likely the reason you can run the truck without the bypass and the P0113 code likely just went away on its on. Also, you carry the stock SAS module that you have to remove for the kit to work in your truck? That was lucky.

I don't think you are understanding the situation. I'll start from the beginning. I installed the hewitt system due to an SAI valve failure. When I did my valley plate leak repair, I had to pull that damn valve out anyway, so I replaced it while I was in there with a brand new valve, and left the Hewitt kit installed. Then, the dash lit up like a christmas tree and my coolant temp dropped to zero. The Hewitt system has an input to the Intake Air Temperature so it knows when to bypass or engage the system. Suggest you read up on how the SAI system and the Hewitt works. When I removed all the Hewitt system parts and reconnected the original toyota connections (original connections are part of the hewitt system that get intercepted by their module), so regardless of installing the bypass or not, I am always "carrying the stock system" with me. You dont actually remove anything as part of the hewitt install. Suggest you read the Hewitt documentation. And finally, the code is a permanent one. It does not go away on its own. My car is now in stock configuration, I can hear the AIS run on cold start and everything is happy. The check engine light was removed by a code scanner.

So, just because you fail to see how the two are related, does not mean they are not related. It just means you have more reading to do.

 

[08URJ200]

You must have read into something that made a stick go up your ass. Not sure what thats about, I was genuinely curious.

Anyhoo, the bypass kit I installed came with a module requiring you to unbolt and remove the front most facing stock module, of which there are two behind the fuse box, and replace with the new Hewitt bypass module, along with the wiring of course. We may have two different kits...