Second Battery & Battery Management System in Trunk

[JohnJ7]

I am currently planning the second phase of my build. The second phase will be to set up all the electrical components for my build. I've laid out all the major accessories I want to install like lighting, winch, fridge, air pump, lockers ect... and where I want their switches to be located. Ideally, I would have everything electrical including the switches set up so that when I install them during the third phase all the electrical set up would be complete before the actual install.

I found a build online that had the second battery along with the air pump and battery management system set up in the trunk. I thought it was neat and am considering going that route but I wanted to check if anyone else has that setup or even thoughts on that idea. Below are some pictures to help show how everything will be concealed/accessed.

 

[TexAZ]

It looks like they removed the rear air conditioner to make room for the battery. And I would think the compressor inside the car would be loud.

Cool concept, but a lot of work.

There is space under the hood, up front for battery and compressor.

 

[RET2]

^^^ Concur

 

[brasskey]

Also, I think you have a subwoofer in the passenger quarter panel where that compressor is mounted. I believe all US spec'd 200s have a speaker where it's optional in other markets.

 

[fireball]

Why do you need a second battery?

The above is a ton of money, time, weight and compromise for something I'd argue 99% of us don't need.

 

[Markuson]

Why do you need a second battery?

The above is a ton of money, time, weight and compromise for something I'd argue 99% of us don't need.

I dunno... It was great running a fridge/freezer, charging drones and running a microwave while camping in Baja earlier this year. The one truck without a second battery...that had a drone...appreciated charging multiple devices/batteries at once in camp, and I appreciated doing it without concern. 2nd batteries are great.

 

[TeCKis300]

My opinion, but a portable lithium power station paired with a solar panel would have much more flexibility and utility than installing a complicated second bank on vehicle.

Something like this with solid capacity, built in inverter, and tons of charging and output options. There's many other brands/capacities that can be had cheaper.

https://www.amazon.com/Goal-Zero-Portable-Generator-Alternative/dp/B00GV3XRDW/ref=sm_n_ma_dka_US_pr_ran_0_0?adId=B00D5RVMAM&creativeASIN=B00D5RVMAM&linkId=88391b650c6818bfa818183a7dfb1a2b&tag=funtober00-20&linkCode=w43&ref-refURL=https://www.funtober.com/blackfriday/goalzero/&slotNum=0&imprToken=X1dwYC1ZpO71feEYzwV4pg&adType=smart&adMode=manual&adFormat=grid&impressionTimestamp=1542092976674&th=1

 

[TonyP]

The above is the Redarc Manager30. It's not currently avalible in 110/120VAC form yet.
It's currently in testing and to be released soon.

 

[Markuson]

My opinion, but a portable lithium power station paired with a solar panel would have much more flexibility and utility than installing a complicated second bank on vehicle.

Something like this with solid capacity, built in inverter, and tons of charging and output options. There's many other brands/capacities that can be had cheaper.

https://www.amazon.com/Goal-Zero-Portable-Generator-Alternative/dp/B00GV3XRDW/ref=sm_n_ma_dka_US_pr_ran_0_0?adId=B00D5RVMAM&creativeASIN=B00D5RVMAM&linkId=88391b650c6818bfa818183a7dfb1a2b&tag=funtober00-20&linkCode=w43&ref-refURL=https://www.funtober.com/blackfriday/goalzero/&slotNum=0&imprToken=X1dwYC1ZpO71feEYzwV4pg&adType=smart&adMode=manual&adFormat=grid&impressionTimestamp=1542092976674&th=1

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That $600 Goal Zero gets you a mere 300 watts continuous and that’s if fully charged. I’m running items all the way up to 1500W and it works great. For the super heavy loads, I run the engine for the few minutes-at-a-time they are in use.

For smaller devices that need less power, or low power for longer periods, it’s great to able to use a second battery. All my rear USB and 12V outlets in the rear of my 200 are connected to the 2nd battery only. If I’m camping, I’ll use my IBS controller to in-link it from the main, so if it does deplete, I’m still starting my truck and the main will help recover the 2nd battery charge when I’m traveling again.

On the other hand, I am interested in a roof-top solar panel at some point for extended camping (without driving each day).

I’ve already been leaning toward no roof rack beyond stock (Don’t want hundreds of pounds or extra height up there), so putting a large panel is probably in my future. There’s room up there for a huge 350W panel, but the trick is the 12V part. Most 12V panels are smaller and around 100W. Almost no panel will gather it’s full rated power no matter what...plus weather, trees, angle, etc. So I’m interested in the biggest that will fit between my sun roof and rear spoiler (or several).

 

[Blasst]

I have needed my second battery a couple of times when my primary failed. The primary is a new Toyota which I later learned is junk and it has certainly proven true. I'll be replacing it sometime soon even though it's new.

I have heard a lot of ARB compressors failing due to heat if mounted under the hood. Heard it is well known in Australia. Don't know if any of this is true. If I had it to do over I would put an automatic locker in rear and a totally manual locker up front. I have forgotten the names but researched it a while back. There is so much to fail with an ARB system. On the other hand our crawl control is pretty kick a$$ so in the event of a failure I can't repair I'd have to be in some bad stuff to be stranded with a winch and crawl control available.

 

[Markuson]

I have needed my second battery a couple of times when my primary failed. The primary is a new Toyota which I later learned is junk and it has certainly proven true. I'll be replacing it sometime soon even though it's new.

I have heard a lot of ARB compressors failing due to heat if mounted under the hood. Heard it is well known in Australia. Don't know if any of this is true. If I had it to do over I would put an automatic locker in rear and a totally manual locker up front. I have forgotten the names but researched it a while back. There is so much to fail with an ARB system. On the other hand our crawl control is pretty kick a$$ so in the event of a failure I can't repair I'd have to be in some bad stuff to be stranded with a winch and crawl control available.

I’ve used mine in nasty-summer-hot Moab quite a few times and no issues...knock on wood. Quite a few other trucks with them too, and haven’t heard of issues. But everything takes a BEATING in the serious wheeling outback. Might help that it’s a twin compressor, so run time is about half what singles have to run for the same fills.

 

[Blasst]

well it was youtube drivel. So as we know should be taken with a grain of salt. I certainly have not heard of any here on mud or around elsewhere failing. So until mine does I am a happy camper. To engage lockers they hardly work. Airing up tires is a different matter.
I got the smaller heavy duty that came out last year. Then kinda regretted it. Won't be good for airing tires. I will probably carry something else tlll I work out my routine.

I also followed your lead and got that Lithium charger you have. (the name escapes me)

 

[fireball]

I dunno... It was great running a fridge/freezer, charging drones and running a microwave while camping in Baja earlier this year. The one truck without a second battery...that had a drone...appreciated charging multiple devices/batteries at once in camp, and I appreciated doing it without concern. 2nd batteries are great.

I asked the OP the question "why do you need a second battery". If the type of camping you do involves sitting stationary for multiple days and drawing large loads, then yes, a second battery might be worth the time, expense, weight and complication.

I would argue that almost all of us rarely sit still that long on our trips, and would be better served by a high quality Group 31 main battery, portable or roof mounted 100-200W solar panel, and backup lithium jump pack.

 

[TeCKis300]

That $600 Goal Zero gets you a mere 300 watts continuous and that’s if fully charged. I’m running items all the way up to 1500W and it works great. For the super heavy loads, I run the engine for the few minutes-at-a-time they are in use.

For smaller devices that need less power, or low power for longer periods, it’s great to able to use a second battery. All my rear USB and 12V outlets in the rear of my 200 are connected to the 2nd battery only. If I’m camping, I’ll use my IBS controller to in-link it from the main, so if it does deplete, I’m still starting my truck and the main will help recover the 2nd battery charge when I’m traveling again.

On the other hand, I am interested in a roof-top solar panel at some point for extended camping (without driving each day).

I’ve already been leaning toward no roof rack beyond stock (Don’t want hundreds of pounds or extra height up there), so putting a large panel is probably in my future. There’s room up there for a huge 350W panel, but the trick is the 12V part. Most 12V panels are smaller and around 100W. Almost no panel will gather it’s full rated power no matter what...plus weather, trees, angle, etc. So I’m interested in the biggest that will fit between my sun roof and rear spoiler (or several).

No argument. You're an extreme power user. On the extreme of extreme power users. Not all styles of travel need this level of power capacity and infrustructure.

That said, there's many flavors of lithium batts. Some can go to full 1500W inverter output if that's what you need - Goal Zero Yeti 1000.

I'll also comment that less is more sometimes. My honking big trailer that is way harder on power makes do with 200W solar. Well, less can be more, until one absolutely needs more right? Probably worthwhile to calculate out a power budget.

 

[coleAK]

My Costco has the goal zero 1400 for $999. Goal zero also make a 3000w. Goal zeros are nice but I made my own solar/battery/inverter rig for my TT, 295w solar, 1500w inverter and 2 “golf cart” batteries, fused and wiring for <$1000

 

[Markuson]

Rr

No argument. You're an extreme power user. On the extreme of extreme power users. Not all styles of travel need this level of power capacity and infrustructure.

That said, there's many flavors of lithium batts. Some can go to full 1500W inverter output if that's what you need - Goal Zero Yeti 1000.

I'll also comment that less is more sometimes. My honking big trailer that is way harder on power makes do with 200W solar. Well, less can be more, until one absolutely needs more right? Probably worthwhile to calculate out a power budget.

Re microwave, I often leave it at home.
The only “extreme” part is the thought of a microwave. Fridges are common, and in hot weather especially, it takes a lot of power to keep stuff frozen/cold.

But...the lowest fuss hot food is heating pre-cooked stuff from home. Want hot chocolate? Throw a bottle of chocolate milk in the micro for two minutes and away you go. We do that even in the road. Wife makes a killer breakfast casserole... Heat and done. Leftovers=instant food. It’s great for quick getaways. Other times, it’s just the stove.

But in general, it’s great to have high power as an option. Power tools...other battery chargers...helping other campers run/charge stuff without turning on their trucks just to charge, etc really makes a second battery useful. I have tiny soldering tools, Dremel, etc. and most would be surprised how often those come in handy right out of the truck.

Even at home, I tend to use my truck as a small workshop. The neighbors are used to me using my tailgate as a work bench...and I do the same in the field. Laptop stays powered with a regular 85W charger and no need to run the engine or turn on the the 100W built in inverter in the field.

About the built in inverter:
I have lithium battery chargers plugged into it 24/7 so that batteries are topped off always...but only charge when truck is on. It really works out perfectly for low draw, trickle charging.

For USB devices, my USB ports are always powered and I am constantly using my new external ports while fiddling with things.

Anyway... Just thought I’d share some of my uses. I do use power more than most. But I suspect if others realized how useful it is, I might not seem like such an oddball power extremist. But ya...I’m probably in the top 1%...​

 

[tbisaacs]

No argument. You're an extreme power user. On the extreme of extreme power users. Not all styles of travel need this level of power capacity and infrustructure.

That said, there's many flavors of lithium batts. Some can go to full 1500W inverter output if that's what you need - Goal Zero Yeti 1000.

I'll also comment that less is more sometimes. My honking big trailer that is way harder on power makes do with 200W solar. Well, less can be more, until one absolutely needs more right? Probably worthwhile to calculate out a power budget.

I ran this setup (non lithium) for almost two years and it worked great for my ARB fridge. When I added my DIY drawers I made a semi-permanent mount for the Yeti:

Paired with a 100w panel, the yeti would almost run the fridge indefinitely. 11 days was my record.

I’ve since added a group 27 X2 power battery and that keeps my fridge plenty happy. It frees up the Yeti and we carry it into camp for devices etc.

Great little setup for casual, not @Markuson users

 

[fireball]

You can do almost all of that with a single grp31 battery.

My point to the OP poster, and to others, is this: think of all the events you go to, think of all the trips you take, think of all the things you do with your truck and carefully consider if you truly NEED a dual battery setup. I've got the whole she-bang in my 100, and in 5 years and 55k miles of trips (almost all with the family) there was exactly one weekend (rainy but hot, parked in shade, truck didn't move for 3 days) where I really NEEDED by dual battery setup and the extra power it provided.

For my needs and my uses, the 200 will get built with a single group 31, a 160W solar panel mounted on the roof but easily disconnected and moved out of the shade if need be, and a NOCO jump pack. This setup will weight less, be less expensive and less complicated than a dual battery setup.

 

[mcgaskins]

I asked the OP the question "why do you need a second battery". If the type of camping you do involves sitting stationary for multiple days and drawing large loads, then yes, a second battery might be worth the time, expense, weight and complication.

I would argue that almost all of us rarely sit still that long on our trips, and would be better served by a high quality Group 31 main battery, portable or roof mounted 100-200W solar panel, and backup lithium jump pack.

Come on man a single battery isn't expo enough!!

(I use the Slee bracket with group 31 AGM and hit it with an AGM Odyssey charger once a month and a Noco GB150 in the drawers just in case - no dual battery here)

 

[Markuson]

I ran this setup (non lithium) for almost two years and it worked great for my ARB fridge. When I added my DIY drawers I made a semi-permanent mount for the Yeti:

Paired with a 100w panel, the yeti would almost run the fridge indefinitely. 11 days was my record.

I’ve since added a group 27 X2 power battery and that keeps my fridge plenty happy. It frees up the Yeti and we carry it into camp for devices etc.

Great little setup for casual, not @Markuson users

That’s encouraging (about the solar) running your fridge. If there is anything g that can kill the battery while camping it’s hot weather leading to heavy fridge run-time. Cold weath fridge use is easy, but heat... Good news is with hot weather comes lots of sun for solar.

Thanks for post.