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Well today I took off the clutch master cylinder, cleaned it out, and put it back on and got it bled. I also mounted the rear drive shaft after cutting off the emergency break cable holder. I will have to weld that on a different place of the crossmember. Since I'm running a h55 drive shaft is really close to the rear crossmember. Then I thought hey let's take it out for a drive. So I did. Drove it around the block a few times and it really sounds great with no Muffler and no intake. Yes Open Exhaust and Open Turbo is the only way to go! I do need to regear it, as shifting in 3rd takes a little bit of second gear Redline to get it there. Needless to say I'm totally stoked that I got to drive it.
 
Added on universal coolant catch container. Researching air intake systems now. May just have to booty Fab something until later so I can drive it.

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Got the mock-up done. It's too late to pull the welder out.

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Well, got it done. At least until I can figure out an air box and snorkel combination.

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What did you do for the oil catch deal? I could never figure that part out and ended up keeping the stock housing ...

I have an idea, but not a final design. The idea, is to figure out how to slow down the oil vapor. There are some other vehicles like the Jetta where they have a CCV filter on top of the valve cover to "catch" and let it drip down. But I would like to set it up to whether it slows down and drips back in the top of the valve cover, or set up a catch bottle, as I have seen on the diesel truck sites, and let it drain back into the stock location of the oil pan. I also plan to weld in a bung in the exhaust pipe tilted at 45 degrees away from the engine so that the exhaust creates a pull effect. Here is an example Vibrant Performance Part No. 11189 - Vacuum Canisters
 
What do you mean "it won't run open". I have driven it around the neighborhood like that with no problems. Now what is funny, I have a cap that fits over the CCV port in the valve cover. If I forget to remove it, the motor will build pressure and die.
 
I used a large air compressor filter. I removed the stock ceramic filter in the unit and then filled it with a stainless scouring pad. Just make sure to get the filter with the largest in/out ports so that you won't restrict flow and add back pressure.
 
Found a pic.

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Good pic, thanks. So did you route it back into the intake? What was done with the accumulation of oil in the filter?
 
Yes, I routed it back to the intake. The K&N filter housing that my buddy Scott gave me had a nipple for it. For the accumulated oil, you just drain it manually, but you could probably put a hose barb down there and route it to the oil pan.
 
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Cool man! Thank you! I now have a plan. :cheers:
 
I had a couple questions-I went through your thread and didn't see them, but apologies if they were addressed and I missed them:

Did you have clearance issues with the lower radiator hose and the alternator?

How long did your rear drive shaft end up being, and how much angle did you end up with?

I didn't see it, but which transmission are you using?

Thanks, Daner
 
Hi Daner,

Did you have clearance issues with the lower radiator hose and the alternator?

No, I used a generic radiator hose and I don't remember how long it was but get one short enough to where it actually pulls away from the water pump to the radiator.

How long did your rear drive shaft end up being, and how much angle did you end up with?

I will measure them and get back to you

I didn't see it, but which transmission are you using?

H55- Toyota 5 speed

Thanks, Daner[/QUOTE]
 
Any updates?
 
Any updates?

Was running around the neighborhood and forgot to turn on the cooling fan and engine overheated and locked up.

I do not have anytime to be working on it and am selling it. $5000 with a bunch of parts.
 
That sucks, Jeff!
 

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