- Year
- 1992
- Vehicle Model
- 70 Series
- Location
- Seattle, Washington United States
- Mileage
- 116000
- Color
- Black
Price $19,500.00
I have not been watching prices, so tell me if I am way off base here. I just know where I am in the truck and it's more than that for sure.
Let's start with my build thread:
forum.ih8mud.com
Photos: This is just a folder with pictures of nearly everything I have done to the truck. No particular order and some items are not current if I tried something, didn't like it and changed. For instance intercooler radiator moved when I built the front bumper.
I have been back and forth for a year about selling my truck. It's just sitting because I am too busy/lazy to make time to tinker on it and it's not getting driven much.
I bought the truck in November 2017.
Since then I have changed/updated/upgraded a lot on it
Current KM is 187,250 (116,000 miles)
Head cracked on it sometime in 2019 though I had always suspected it had a minor crack since I bought it.
New updated Genuine Toyota head installed with valve job, new cam bearings and seals Dec 2019
Obviously I can't speak to what happened in Japan. But, since I have owned it it has never been ran hot or EGT's above 1400F and even that for just a few seconds. EGT and temp gauges were one of my first mods. EGT and water temp are fully under control now and it will not exceed 1100F sustained.
I have fueling/boost adjusted with boost max @ 19PSI
Truck is running Air/water intercooler.
The new/good things about the truck:
NO RUST! I have been all over the truck obviously and the only actual rust besides surface rust was in the drain behind the LH taillight. I just slightly drilled that hole out about 1/16" larger and treated it.
I have broken a total of 3 bolts working on the truck. One on the EGR removal at the exhaust manifold. One on the exhaust hanger below the manifold. and one because I was stupid, not because it was corroded or rusted. Only other rusty bolts I have found were the water pump bolts and I obviously replaced those when I did the water pump.
Engine:
New updated head -Genuine
New Head gasket- Genuine
New cam bearings-Genuine
Valve seals-Genuine
All upper gaskets/seals- Genuine
New coolant hose (ALL) -Genuine
New water pump-ASIN
New timing belt
New OEM belts
New upgraded fan -Genuine
Fan clutch turn on reset and new fluid
EGR and intake butterfly removed
Air/Water intercooler added
Bosch water pump for intercooler on fused/relay. Comes on with ignition
Evan Waterless coolant
Silicone intake hoses
Bosch glow plugs
Rebuilt injectors
New fuel primer pump and fuel lines.
Drivetrain:
All new brake rotors, pads, wheel bearings. Hubs rebuilt.
New tie rod ends
All genuine except rotors. They were sourced from NAPA.
Extended brake lines
Suspension:
Complete 65MM Dobinson Suspension. Springs and shocks
New bushings. Offset castor correcting on radius arms
Sway bars removed
Dobinson steering stabilizer
Body:
Custom ¼” plate winch bumper w/ Xbull 13K winch/Synthetic Dyneema line (It’s a cheap Chinese winch and it is getting a little tired. It’s pulled a LOT of trees since I bought it. Still works well however)
SS roof rack on Frontrunner gutter mounts
Genuine raised air intake plumbed into existing airbox
Misc:
Relay added to headlights
New Sylvania bulbs
Winch solenoids and controls under hood with wireless controllers
All winch wiring upgraded to #2 cables w/ shut off switch @ battery
Odyssey Extreme PC1500 battery. (May2020)
Madman Technologies gauge. EGR, Water temp, Oil temp, oil pressure, Voltmeter, Hour meter,
VDO boost gauge
Kenwood head unit
Rear drawers with full depth pullouts.
BFG KO AT 33X10.50/15 (spare new)
Remainder aprox 4000 miles
Known issues with truck:
Glow plugs on a Wilson switch with a marine starter solenoid running them. I shorted the Suprglow system to the manifold in a moment of stupidity and one of the relays is bad. Entire system is still in place except for the main relay. I didn't want any power going to it with it disconnected.
Paint on drivers side must have faced the sun for most of the trucks life in Japan. Clearcoat is peeling.
AC works. However, it has leaked down again. I had replaced several of the O-rings that had dried out and were leaking. Should have replaced them all. All AC components are functional and when it's charged it works. It needs all orings replaced , new dryer and charged.
( Before the flaming starts, yes, I to hate the AC works just needs charged Craiglist ads.) This is exactly like that. Except mine actually did work last summer.
I have not been watching prices, so tell me if I am way off base here. I just know where I am in the truck and it's more than that for sure.
Let's start with my build thread:
Builds - 1992 LJ78 build/refresh
Thought I would start a thread and try to keep all my stupid questions in one place. I just bought a LJ78 because I need another project about like I need scurvy. 1992 LJ78 with 179k kilometers. Auto trans. LWB. I will be doing all the EGR removal , fuel tweaking and most likely intercooler on...
forum.ih8mud.com
I bought the truck in November 2017.
Since then I have changed/updated/upgraded a lot on it
Current KM is 187,250 (116,000 miles)
Head cracked on it sometime in 2019 though I had always suspected it had a minor crack since I bought it.
New updated Genuine Toyota head installed with valve job, new cam bearings and seals Dec 2019
Obviously I can't speak to what happened in Japan. But, since I have owned it it has never been ran hot or EGT's above 1400F and even that for just a few seconds. EGT and temp gauges were one of my first mods. EGT and water temp are fully under control now and it will not exceed 1100F sustained.
I have fueling/boost adjusted with boost max @ 19PSI
Truck is running Air/water intercooler.
The new/good things about the truck:
NO RUST! I have been all over the truck obviously and the only actual rust besides surface rust was in the drain behind the LH taillight. I just slightly drilled that hole out about 1/16" larger and treated it.
I have broken a total of 3 bolts working on the truck. One on the EGR removal at the exhaust manifold. One on the exhaust hanger below the manifold. and one because I was stupid, not because it was corroded or rusted. Only other rusty bolts I have found were the water pump bolts and I obviously replaced those when I did the water pump.
Engine:
New updated head -Genuine
New Head gasket- Genuine
New cam bearings-Genuine
Valve seals-Genuine
All upper gaskets/seals- Genuine
New coolant hose (ALL) -Genuine
New water pump-ASIN
New timing belt
New OEM belts
New upgraded fan -Genuine
Fan clutch turn on reset and new fluid
EGR and intake butterfly removed
Air/Water intercooler added
Bosch water pump for intercooler on fused/relay. Comes on with ignition
Evan Waterless coolant
Silicone intake hoses
Bosch glow plugs
Rebuilt injectors
New fuel primer pump and fuel lines.
Drivetrain:
All new brake rotors, pads, wheel bearings. Hubs rebuilt.
New tie rod ends
All genuine except rotors. They were sourced from NAPA.
Extended brake lines
Suspension:
Complete 65MM Dobinson Suspension. Springs and shocks
New bushings. Offset castor correcting on radius arms
Sway bars removed
Dobinson steering stabilizer
Body:
Custom ¼” plate winch bumper w/ Xbull 13K winch/Synthetic Dyneema line (It’s a cheap Chinese winch and it is getting a little tired. It’s pulled a LOT of trees since I bought it. Still works well however)
SS roof rack on Frontrunner gutter mounts
Genuine raised air intake plumbed into existing airbox
Misc:
Relay added to headlights
New Sylvania bulbs
Winch solenoids and controls under hood with wireless controllers
All winch wiring upgraded to #2 cables w/ shut off switch @ battery
Odyssey Extreme PC1500 battery. (May2020)
Madman Technologies gauge. EGR, Water temp, Oil temp, oil pressure, Voltmeter, Hour meter,
VDO boost gauge
Kenwood head unit
Rear drawers with full depth pullouts.
BFG KO AT 33X10.50/15 (spare new)
Remainder aprox 4000 miles
Known issues with truck:
Glow plugs on a Wilson switch with a marine starter solenoid running them. I shorted the Suprglow system to the manifold in a moment of stupidity and one of the relays is bad. Entire system is still in place except for the main relay. I didn't want any power going to it with it disconnected.
Paint on drivers side must have faced the sun for most of the trucks life in Japan. Clearcoat is peeling.
AC works. However, it has leaked down again. I had replaced several of the O-rings that had dried out and were leaking. Should have replaced them all. All AC components are functional and when it's charged it works. It needs all orings replaced , new dryer and charged.
( Before the flaming starts, yes, I to hate the AC works just needs charged Craiglist ads.) This is exactly like that. Except mine actually did work last summer.
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